Numbchux

yes, it can be done. the car design is identical (except you don't need the center driveshaft bearing blocks)... BUT, I'd say go get a skidplate off a late '80s 4WD GL, this will bolt right up, and protect your oil pan. and then cut/pound out your fenders to put slightly larger tires on it. as said before, the lift actually makes your oil pan MORE vulnerable, as it's dropped ~3" by comparison to the rest of the body. Check out this pic of my wagon shortly after the lift: see how bad the oil pan sticks out?

both of my lifted wagons have done thousands upon thousands of freeway miles. at 70+ mph. I think it's as safe as can be, but be sure you're paying attention, and you don't take your hands off the wheel. a crosswind can start something fierce if you're not paying attention. I'd rather be driving my wagon, than fullsize truck!

I think a better/easier application would be the dual ebrake. Just mount 2 handles, one for each front wheel. if one starts to slip, pull up on that handle.

Subaru already makes gears as low as 4.44s for the EJ series tranny. But the mesh is different...

yes...you do. If you don't need lo range with big tires, you don't need a lift. any of the 3 lift suppliers are great. ask around, see which best fits your budget and timeframe. I've got one BYB lifted wagon, and one AA lifted wagon (with an SJR piece, for more lift). And they're all great stuff. So don't worry about quality between them. replace CV boots before the whole axle. and if you have to replace the axle. get a junkyard one. DO NOT get a remanufactured one from Napa, Checker, Schucks, etc. etc. They're CRAP!!!

well, I don't think the torsion bar could hold up the car with the extra leverage. depending, of course, on how much you lengthen it. so just convert to EA82 coil-overs. it complicates that shock-finding process a bunch, but completely solves the rest of your problem

bingo....that's why it hasn't been done before but, like the other thread, It's all good ideas! The reason that a wider stance allows better travel is the longer axles. I wouldn't, however, go trying any of this on your daily driver. for a couple reasons, it will reduce everyday driveability, and it could easily put you out of commision for extended periods of time btw...it looks like we're the only ones still awake :cool:

what I'm trying to say, is if you've found a way around the axle problem, you're idea sounds great!

the axles are the #1 concern in reference to travel. It's a good idea, but you'll need to drop your diff considerably in order to allow downflex. the other consideration is shocks. you'll need to find something that'll allow that much flex. as that is what is limiting the travel now (if you got longer travel shocks though....you'd have axle problems)

yes, you certainly could, but getting a custom ring and pinion gear set ade up right that meshed right, and was strong, would be gigantic $$$$$$$$$

well, I swapped in a presumed good amplifier (the car it came off of died of rust, and HG failure), and still nothing. fuses and fusable links are fine.... I'm gonna take the insurance off of it, if Murphy's law is in effect, it should be back in no time :-\

well, my '85 was pretty tired, it could barely get 6.5k my '88s both can hit 7k+ (more like 7200) the '92 hit it around 6.8k

^^ I doubt it's that much :-p I heard this phrase on here not long ago.... "a redline a day keeps the mechanic away" let's just say I know where the valves float on all 4 of my EA82's I can't comment on mileage, as I've never had a good example, my '85 ran like crap, my '92 had a 3-speed AT, and both my '88's are running ~28" tires.... and on gas, I put 90 in it once for the heck of it since it was the same price as the 87....no difference. we ran nothing but the cheapest ethanol-filled crap they'd sell us in my '92 loyale for the last 5+ years and 100k miles. leaks oil and is underpowered, but no problems

fair enough, that's why my mom doesn't give.... anyone else?

in one of the other threads about this, QMan spoke of it with a very personal tone (like he either did it himself, or witnessed it) and said they get mangled very easily.

well, I was still playing hockey when my dad bought the '92 loyale.....so 5yrs now? '85 GL Wagon 5MT DR...2yrs '88 " " blue, now lifted...9 mo. '88 " " black, lifte.........2 weeks

just a little reminder.... I collected about $50 from some of my local MNSubaru members last weekend So Austin and I were thinking of putting together a small DVD of our little day trip we took up there last year (the one where his wagon was floating.....you know the one), and selling it for $15 or so a piece. and putting the profits towards the Crawl. or even donating the materials personally and putting everything as a donation. would anyone be interested in this?

I would LOVE to have a lower 1st gear for every day driving! I was going to make a seperate lever this summer for the lo range reduction, so I could get 2WD lo without removing an axle, but if 1st was just a bunch lower, it wouldn't be an issue.

a subaru will float long before the water get's to the window, just as long as it's sealed. no need for any foam.

most EA82 GL's were fuel injected too and I used a cluster from an '88 SPFI GL in my '85 carbed GL, plug and play it's the fancy digi dashes that use different senders

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51382&

or just go to http://www.alliedarmament.com they're just reselling 88hatchmonsters. or acting as a middle man of sorts.

as long as the drivetrain setup matches, it'll work. an AT single range 4WD GL gauge cluster will fit in an AT single range loyale. a FWD GL cluster will fit a FWD loyale. I'm not sure about the dual ranges, as they have a 'lo' indicator. so someone else would have to chime in for that, but if you happen to have one that matches, you'll be fine.

huh....good to know