Numbchux

I'm not exactly what you're asking, or for what car. but I do know that many newer subarus came with 4.11's and a rear LSD stock. Forester XT's I think.... the reason we don't do it to our older gen cars is the front diff is completely different, and, thus-far, there is no way to get the 4.11's in the tranny, therefore a rear 4.11 LSD is worthless that being said, I have a clutch-type EA82 rear LSD converted to 3.9 to match my tranny, and it's AWESOME in almost any condition, the only time that it gave too much slip, was when I had one rear wheel about 3 feet in the air, in a 'ditch' so I couldn't pull myself up the next hill, but I jockeyed the car and it pushed right up it....I've heard the viscous ones aren't as tight in an offroad application like that one, but might still work well for rally/iceracing

I'm not sure on the exact size of the window, but I think it's at least as big as the one on my subie... I understand the basic concept behind it, it's a heating element, more power = more heat, basically. but I wasn't sure about exactly how. Well, the next time the Chuxwagon runs, I will have rewired dang near the entire thing anyway, so I suppose I'll just make sure this get's looked at anyway

well, if we had sigs you could tell what my car is [/editorial comment] '88 gl wagon, ea82 I've got one element broken, but other than that, they all work. mediocre on dew, not at all on frost/ice, I've got to scrape it off by hand (the escort will defrost the rear in the time it takes to scrape the front)

put me in line

So I was driving my girlfriends ford escort yesterday morning, and found it's one real redeeming quality (sure it's got better shocks, and more power, and a radio.....but all those things will be fixed on the chuxwagon in due time).....it's rear defroster can melt a thick layer of ice in a matter of a minute or 2....none of my subarus could do that to save their souls..... anyone have an idea on how one could up the voltage, or amperage, or wattage, or whatever to make it heat up faster and hotter? I have a basic understanding of how it works, but not completely....

sounds sweet! I still really want to see pics of your rig!!!

oh yea, been awhile since I watched it....good point, thanks

don't know if this could be the same, but when we replace the shocks on my dad's grand caravan, we didn't compress the springs enough, and with the cars weight on it, the top nut on the shock would have about 1/2" of play in it. we took them out, got better spring compressors, and tightened it down tighter, noise completely gone...

won't FWD rear struts work??

if you want to see one clip of us going into lake superior, here's the whole compilation of the whole MNSUbaru duluth trip, there's a little section in the middle of us.... warning, some explicit language used in this video....you may want to turn down the volume http://www.mnsubaru.com/Duluth/mnsubaru_duluth_2005.wmv

you'll need the engine crossmember, as the turbo one has a notch for the up-pipe, or have custom exhaust done...that's all I know for sure

well, I don't know what to tell you there, but I can tell by those control arms, the geometry is not stock, it might just be the weight in the back and the front not settled.... SJR....bumper.....want.......NOW!!

ok, get everything finished and put together, than drive it at least around the block, THEN you can panic that is your problem right there, once you get everything else put together, those control arms will be more parallel to....well, anything....and the camber will get alot better

how much drop do you have at the tranny?! part of it is just life, a lifted soob will have alot of positive camber, especially right after install. some of it will settle out. the other part is those control arm angles, that's what pulls the bottom of the wheel in, so either your suspension REALLY will settle out (have you driven it at all?), or you've only got like 4" blocks at the tranny/engine.... other than that....looks awesome!!

The first one is more of a hole....but the second one (the one that doesn't work) is of us driving out into lake superior a bit (if you don't know what lake superior is....go look at a North America map, it'll be on there)

I'm proud to say I used that parking light switch about a month ago....my car had to be trailered home, and there was some fog leaving town, and the lights on the trailer didn't work....I just flipped the switch, and the lights came on, but I didn't have to worry about leaving the ignition on and draining the battery!! we did, however, spend about a week pulling the fuse for the lights everytime we wanted to park in my mom's '92 legacy before we figured out the switch I think the locking handle thing is to prevent you from accidently locking yourself out of the car. you have to actively be trying to lock the door for it to lock. no bumping the switch and closing the door.

I haven't seen the video yet....but let me just say, the driving into the lake idea....ALL AUSTINS!!! and I was the camera man....wouldn't be a bit suprised if I gasped, the vid probably doesn't do it justice!! EDIT: first link works, I come back in a couple hours when the vid's done downloading....but the other doesn't, I even went to page 13 of your album (which, btw, does exist) and the link there doesn't work...

Well, I just went downstairs and counted....8 bolts on a stock EA82 open rear diff. (donor parts from my LSD swap)

I ran different size tires side to side for a few months. same sizes even, with no noticable handling issues.

they are different heights, period, the section height is calculated as a percentage of the width: diameters are 23.2" vs. 22.6" (calculated using the tire calculater on subarubrat.com) if you've got the smaller ones on the front and the bigger ones on the rear (or vice versa) you WILL have binding. it won't hurt anything on snow, but it might effect handling. I had the same thing for awhile, here's what I did: put the bigger ones on one side, and the smaller ones on the other. this way you've got the same *average* size front and back. the diffs will make up for the difference, and no binding will occur at the tcase. NOTE: DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU HAVE AN LSD! it's not any worse than going around a corner, always, but an LSD will slowly build up heat, and wear quite quickly, but an open diff will just slip.

also known as the pitch stopper....it will need to be lengthened. I (somehow) managed to make my stock one work, but that's only 3" at my engine xmember, yours is 6.....you'll need to lengthen it.

I don't have a welded diff....but the one weekend where I ran with no diff shim, and the rear end cranked up to about 5" of lift. I could pull off the axle without even jacking the car up....unfortunately, I broke 2 axles in 2 days....amazing what that extra inch can do! I even put in the 'new' axle on in the NAPA parking lot on the way up there. then broke it into little bits the next day, and took it out. anyway, yes, it will help, alot.

search in the old gen for a post by WJM about front diffs.....he took an EJ tranny apart, and an EA one....and the front diff CARRRIERS are the same, any 5-speed subaru tranny has the same front diff. not sure about 6-speeds, but since this says WRX AND STi, I would assume they are interchangeable. that also means it'll fit in your legacy if you've got a 5 speed.

yea....it was a good headlight though, the 2 laps we did on the course, and all the drifting was at night, and that thing worked soooo much better than the old one with all the mud in it.... but yea, I've had the engine get a little noisy, and put 3 quarts in it before (oops.....only once, I sware!!). So the fact that it was only 1 quart or so low makes me suspect it was another problem. so now I'll spend some time getting my loyale up and running as a daily driver, and then I can put ~3 weeks into the EJ22 rebuild/swap, and fixing a few other problems with the car....

good point.....and I thought $100 for my rear one was pricey!