Numbchux

no, unless you don't like the idea of being a subaru addict only thing is.....there isn't much subaru left in that one

quite honestly, I'd find a local subaru club, there you might be able to find a used one, or a place to find a used one, aswell as help installing it. I'd go to the MNSubaru club (mostly WRX tuners....but they know their stuff), but that won't help you much

whatever it is, it's probably caused by the weight shift of decel....does it do it when your coasting? could be wheel bearing, I'd check for play in the wheels first. could also just be something hangine down that drags (either on the road, or more likely, on an axle/driveshaft) when the front end settles slightly. I bashed my exhaust a little, and it would rub on the driveshaft when engine braking....made a horrible sound

hmmm...that's late, maybe I'll have a car up and running by then....probably not

I beleive there are probably even stock LSD's that'll bolt right up with zero modification.....

??? I know the AA kit has been put on wagons and sedans alike..... I'm pretty sure EA82 is loyales and anything '85-'89 except hatches, brats and xt6's EDIT: maybe you mean that some have different spring rates and ride heights....and some have sway bars etc. but I think the mounting brackets are the same regardless

actually, true 4WD sends 100% of the power to both diffs, ALL the time AWD, where all 4 wheels are on equal traction situations, and in a straight line, sends 100% of the power to both diffs, but a true open diff can send as much as 200/0 to one end or the other (think about it, with an open diff, if one wheel is stopped, the other spins TWICE as fast, works the same for a center diff) a percentage power split is actually out of 200% here's where it get's complicated.....the AT (at least on an EA82 SR4WD) just have a clutch pack on the back of the tranny, sending 100% of the power to the front all the time, and some to the rear, almost never 100% to the rear, but never 0% either (as long as it's engaged). now you're asking.....what about that 200% thing??? some of the power is lost in the clutch pack.... the DutyC sylenoid controls how much pressure is put on this clutch pack, Andy's modification 'hotwires' the the sylenoid so that there is the maximum possible pressure on the clutch pack as possible. Mudrat's problem could have been as simple as the clutch pack being worn, so the electrical modification wasn't enough to lock it.... point: yes, it can be done......whew.....but it would require even more modification than a tcase project already would, AND you wouldn't have the gear reduction from the tranny like you would with it behind a EA D/R tranny (which you would already not have if you've got an EJ car)

oh, yep, if you get an LSD carrier from another subaru, I bet the swap would be virtually identical to what we old-gen people do all the time. check the repair manual for the write-up

my disty got swamped long before my intake got wet

I'm not exactly what you're asking, or for what car. but I do know that many newer subarus came with 4.11's and a rear LSD stock. Forester XT's I think.... the reason we don't do it to our older gen cars is the front diff is completely different, and, thus-far, there is no way to get the 4.11's in the tranny, therefore a rear 4.11 LSD is worthless that being said, I have a clutch-type EA82 rear LSD converted to 3.9 to match my tranny, and it's AWESOME in almost any condition, the only time that it gave too much slip, was when I had one rear wheel about 3 feet in the air, in a 'ditch' so I couldn't pull myself up the next hill, but I jockeyed the car and it pushed right up it....I've heard the viscous ones aren't as tight in an offroad application like that one, but might still work well for rally/iceracing

I'm not sure on the exact size of the window, but I think it's at least as big as the one on my subie... I understand the basic concept behind it, it's a heating element, more power = more heat, basically. but I wasn't sure about exactly how. Well, the next time the Chuxwagon runs, I will have rewired dang near the entire thing anyway, so I suppose I'll just make sure this get's looked at anyway

well, if we had sigs you could tell what my car is [/editorial comment] '88 gl wagon, ea82 I've got one element broken, but other than that, they all work. mediocre on dew, not at all on frost/ice, I've got to scrape it off by hand (the escort will defrost the rear in the time it takes to scrape the front)

put me in line

So I was driving my girlfriends ford escort yesterday morning, and found it's one real redeeming quality (sure it's got better shocks, and more power, and a radio.....but all those things will be fixed on the chuxwagon in due time).....it's rear defroster can melt a thick layer of ice in a matter of a minute or 2....none of my subarus could do that to save their souls..... anyone have an idea on how one could up the voltage, or amperage, or wattage, or whatever to make it heat up faster and hotter? I have a basic understanding of how it works, but not completely....

sounds sweet! I still really want to see pics of your rig!!!

oh yea, been awhile since I watched it....good point, thanks

don't know if this could be the same, but when we replace the shocks on my dad's grand caravan, we didn't compress the springs enough, and with the cars weight on it, the top nut on the shock would have about 1/2" of play in it. we took them out, got better spring compressors, and tightened it down tighter, noise completely gone...

won't FWD rear struts work??

if you want to see one clip of us going into lake superior, here's the whole compilation of the whole MNSUbaru duluth trip, there's a little section in the middle of us.... warning, some explicit language used in this video....you may want to turn down the volume http://www.mnsubaru.com/Duluth/mnsubaru_duluth_2005.wmv

you'll need the engine crossmember, as the turbo one has a notch for the up-pipe, or have custom exhaust done...that's all I know for sure

well, I don't know what to tell you there, but I can tell by those control arms, the geometry is not stock, it might just be the weight in the back and the front not settled.... SJR....bumper.....want.......NOW!!

ok, get everything finished and put together, than drive it at least around the block, THEN you can panic that is your problem right there, once you get everything else put together, those control arms will be more parallel to....well, anything....and the camber will get alot better

how much drop do you have at the tranny?! part of it is just life, a lifted soob will have alot of positive camber, especially right after install. some of it will settle out. the other part is those control arm angles, that's what pulls the bottom of the wheel in, so either your suspension REALLY will settle out (have you driven it at all?), or you've only got like 4" blocks at the tranny/engine.... other than that....looks awesome!!

The first one is more of a hole....but the second one (the one that doesn't work) is of us driving out into lake superior a bit (if you don't know what lake superior is....go look at a North America map, it'll be on there)

I'm proud to say I used that parking light switch about a month ago....my car had to be trailered home, and there was some fog leaving town, and the lights on the trailer didn't work....I just flipped the switch, and the lights came on, but I didn't have to worry about leaving the ignition on and draining the battery!! we did, however, spend about a week pulling the fuse for the lights everytime we wanted to park in my mom's '92 legacy before we figured out the switch I think the locking handle thing is to prevent you from accidently locking yourself out of the car. you have to actively be trying to lock the door for it to lock. no bumping the switch and closing the door.