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Numbchux

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Everything posted by Numbchux

  1. no, I think just one for the whole system....
  2. bingo! like this one: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000168701/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000168701/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000168701
  3. There's an Idea...a lifted 3dr! hmmm anyway...looks awesome Man! Look like it could use a new pass. side door
  4. it's a completely mechanical speedo, so there's no 'reprogramming' available...and there aren't any aftermarket speedo gears available for our cars....maybe something else would work....I'm not sure if anyone's tried. I've got one of those aftermarket ones, little metal sensors on the driveshaft, little sensor mounted near it...fully reprogrammable speedo. I haven't hooked it up yet though....other things need to be taken care of first.
  5. Thanks, sounds awesome! I just run the OE one, manually switched, and it works great, I've never had overheating problems if the system's holding coolant, and I remember to turn on the fan....unfortunately, the bearing just went out, and I don't want to put in another 20 year old OE fan.... Thanks for the info, sounds like I'm set and yes, I was planning on pulling the bumper, maybe I can bolt on my fog lights while I'm in there!
  6. Great to hear PK!! sorry to hear you guys still won't acknowledge another supplier
  7. I know DrKrazy did it with project cheap, but maybe some others have aswell I'm removing the A/C condenser (or is it the expander....the one behind the grill....) tomorrow, and would like to put in a nice, aftermarket electric fan there, I'm just wondering how one would go about finding one that would fit (sizes, etc.), and how to mount it.... ideas?
  8. typically, I would agree with you there...but the sticky doesn't have the info he's looking for. it doesn't even have SJR as an option! (www.sjrlift.com) iteamsubaru: they're all pretty comparable, just look around, and see what you want. Ozified and AA both offer 3 & 4" kits, and SJR offers 3 1/2" and 6". The SJR design is a bit more difficult to install (cutting/welding required), and frankly, the cast aluminum scares me, although SJR himself has used his wagon like mad with no problems....AA has a group buy going on right now, so that might be your cheapest/easiest/fastest route, although there's nothing wrong with an ozified kit either. There isn't much difference, essentially just price and availability. I've 'worked' with all three companies to some extent. And as I've said before, if PK of ozified had been as easy to contact as AA or SJR, my wagon would've been BYB lifted before AA even came on the market....I don't want to knock PK, but it's the truth, and I know other people have had the same issue. There's also the Mudrat79 route, but just check either of the stickies in the old gen forum 'calling john bloom' or similar to see about his business habits There's a reason I'm running an AA lift, and I love the thing!
  9. The question is......will the backlight still work? also, I think with the design difference of the EA82s, this is probably way easier on EA81s....
  10. Me too...but it served well, and fell victim to Iowa/Minnesota Road salt...and it's parts have become invaluable to keeping my '88 wagon alive as the '85 only had ~140k on it, while the '88 has ~225k on it, but isn't rusted out. and don't worry, I think I got most of the parts
  11. Yep, stock D/R trans uses a 3.90 final gear ratio, and if someone could find a way to put 4.44s in a D/R case, THEY WOULD BE A GOD, AND I WOULD WORSHIP THEM FOREVER!!!!! I think someone did the math, and 4.44's would allow for ~29" tires with the same gearing as 3.90s and 22s.... it'd be like having stock drivetrain, with the clearance of 29s!!!!!! I'm SOOOO HAPPY!!!! sorry...
  12. Well, my '88 wagon runs quite well, except for my little timing belt tensioner incident last week....but I fixed it the next day, thanks to the parts cars: '92 loyale 3AT FWD, awaiting D/R swap from: '85 gl wagon, very much parted out, looks way worse than this pic now it's just an empty shell, awaiting the crusher so 1 and 2
  13. Yea, it's been discussed, and I think the general concensus was that it might be possible, but WAY more work than just removing/replacing the rear axle like 18 thousand times.....or something
  14. I beleive that's the only width that pugs came in....AND, I beleive many people have run swampers on them anyway. I've been researching this myself....although I do hope someone corrects me if I'm wrong.
  15. woa!! northwest wi??? Where?! I'm in duluth...I didn't know there were other people up here who cared enough about these old cars to do anything with them!
  16. perfectly acceptable question... with a lift, there are blocks that drop the engine crossmember down in relation to the body. Next time you're working on your sub, imagine if your mechanical fan was dropped straight down ~3".....(might be different on EA81's, but I don't think so...you'll get the idea at least) comes a bit close to that lower radiator support doesn't it? look in my picture, see how low the fan is on the radiator? That's what caused that, one of the blades caught something, and bent it over.
  17. those cross bars look a bit long, you might want to trim them down, or you'll end up like this yutz
  18. OK, well, in accordance to our new sticky....lol...I'm following up! I decided to pull the A/C compressor off (I've been meaning to remove it for awhile), and see if I could see the culprit. When I did, I immediately noticed a big split in the hose going from the water pump back towards the heater core. So I was pretty close, it looked like it was coming from above the pump, but I figured it was the top weep hole, and the stupid thing was failing. anyway, I got that replaced, got some coolant in it, and it's staying, for the most part. My dad's bringing me a 'new' (from the parts car, where else?) radiator to fix this problem. Note to guys with lifted rigs: Don't run your clutch fan!!! It could eat your radiator, and possibly the wiring immediately under it!!!!
  19. OK, some great info here!! I'll have to print this out and take it to my girlfriends house (here dad's got a sweet garage...though any garage would be better than outside) to work on it in a bit. couple things...this looks like it's more on the driver side, like right under the A/C compressor. It's SPFI, so NVBigBlue, I assume that line you referred to that goes to the carb, also goes to the throttle body I noticed it when running...oh boy did I...I was trying to drive back up here to duluth from my parents place (healty 3 hour drive), got about half way into it, when I noticed the temp gauge creeping up, so I stopped, looked under the car, and there was coolant everywhere, that's when I looked at the motor, well, I filled up evey pop bottle, and one milk jug, I could find in the car with water filled 'er up, and took off down the road, stopping again when the temp got too high again. whatever it is, it's a big leak, cause I had to drive it to school (~5 miles) the other day, and it got real hot, and no heat....and I can open the rad cap with it that hot, and I don't even get steam, I don't think there's anything at all. I just replaced that stupid O-ring right on the water pump about a month ago, so I don't think it's that. Thanks for all the great ideas! keep 'em coming if you've got 'em!
  20. or more specifically...where's it coming from, I know where it's going: all over the ground under my wagon it appears to be coming out somewhere just ABOVE the water pump, what could it be? I was thinking it might be the weep hole on the top of the water pump...but I can't tell...I don't know enough about where the coolant goes inside the engine to know where it could be leaking from tomorrow, I'm going to swap on this OEM new subaru water pump instead of that NAPA reman'd one (live and learn, huh?) with just a few thousand miles on it... any ideas? anyone have something like this happen?? I'm afraid it's an intake manifold gasket or something...but I just can't tell.
  21. Whew!! I got an email that said I had a new pm, but I couldn't check it!!! I had to go sit down!
  22. it wouldn't, the reason these springs raise the rear end so much, is they're designed to hold up the engine/tranny of an accord, and putting them on the rear of a wagon it doesn't compress them as much. it is a bolt on mod, but it will make a much more rough ride....personally, I'd find some adjustable rear struts, and adjust them up with stock springs
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