Numbchux

oh....like the caliper's seized and won't clamp on the disc? I'm not sure what you mean by locked....

yep

I've been pushing my luck....as I've only been carrying a stock wheel as my spare, I have an extra wheel, but just haven't gone and had a full-size tire put on it... anyway, it's the opposite for me, if I get a flat, I need to put the spare on the front, because I have an LSD in the back, those two need to be the same size, it's a bit harder on the front diff, but it'll bet me home in a pinch... one of these days, I'll go and get a tire put on it

I hate to burst your bubble, but the D/R's only came on non-turbo cars....RX's have a similar dual-range, but not as much reduction in lo... The push button is just single range....it's in FWD, push the button, it's in 4WD....OR, it might be full-time 4WD with center diff lock...either way, it's not a dual range if you do find one, you'll need to be creative about axles/driveshafts, I've heard FWD axles fit on the D/R stubs, but I'm not sure, and I haven't a clue at how the driveshaft would fit, and yes, you'll need an adapter plate, and some creative work on the linkage, it's not as simple as you think

You scared me there!! I thought you'd gone and hit a minivan or something... I was looking at some of the pics from there, and man, it looked scary, my car just isn't up to it yet. how'd the rubicon do? it's ok, you needed to redo the paint on that side anyway

If it were me, these would be the only options above and beyond it being unsafe, it's really hard on the car, specifically the tranny, even if it's a 4-speed, I'd be nervous about doing damage

Yes...They might be different height, I'm not sure, it probably depends more on whether it's 4WD or not, but they will bolt up.

wow!! on road?! that would really hurt your mileage, not to mention your tires, and handline I've got mine at 35, but those are just all-seasons, I'd run swampers a bit less...I like tim's suggestion of 32

well, if you're gonna be offroading, 6-lug is your best bet, if you're gonna be going for road performance, 5-lug is probably your best option...

I too had to do this to my '85 carbed wagon, the nest was in the blower. I moved the resistor block, took out the three bolts that hold the blower in, and dropped the entire contents of a mice nest out of the system, it was mostly chewed up insulation from the rest of the car. I then put it back in, but not tight, turned on the blower, and sprayed lysol right onto the fan, which effectively forced it all through the system. then followed it with the febreze and didn't notice the smell until just before I junked the car a year later. Same treatment again probably would've done it...

Well, you ARE the Dr. of Krazy.... really though, my mom's legacy does that, only when it's cold though...but it's real bad, it does it just a tiny bit otherwise, but it also jumps around all crazy when it's cold...we've decided it must be the cable, but haven't done anything yet. another vote for the cable

yep, blocks between the engine crossmember and body, and more between the radius rod bracket/tranny crossmember and body shady, you know I'll be getting front bumper from you....just depends on the style maybe a swing gate too...if you're still doing those.

hmmm...this is a good point....I just talked to my dad, who's a mere 10 miles or so from where austin lives now...he said it's 8*F!!!

I'm definately in!!!

oh yea...forgot about the Auto....get the RX

go for it, you don't need a locked rear to do it! Yea..it'll be more capable with it....but you'll have a lot of fun without it!!

Do it! I know you've got the skills!

yea, I only know of one guy running an EA82T on a lifted car...vanislru and if you're talking about converting your car to turbo, it's alot more complicated, almost as complicated (as far as wiring is concerned) as an H6 swap....not to mention exhaust, oil, coolant lines, intake, etc.

these are all good points...but in this kind of situation....the closer your intake is to cold air, the closer it is to potentially suck water in an off-road situation

you have to jack up the rear of the car by the diff, this should allow the trailing arm to drop is your's a 3" rear lift? that might be part of it, when I put my 4" kit in initially, I could almost get the rear axle off without jacking up the car. also, because of the AA design, initially, the trailing arm doesn't want to flex downward....a little time in the orv park will fix this.

I know, and that scares me even more, it's one thing if it's a brand-new aftermarket kit, intended to be installed in a hole you cut yourself (which I've seen a few that leak)....but to take an old one, out of an old car, cut a hole in your car, and put the sunroof in it....yikes!

personally, I prefer the torque curve of a larger displacement engine, than a turbo'd one....I'll be looking for an XT6 next spring, there might not be as much potential as far as peak hp, or performance, but I think for my ice racing, and RallyX 'needs' the ER27 would be preferrable

yea, if you remove the axles, and rear half of the driveshaft (everything hanging down in my pic) you can drive it in FWD

I hear that!! thus far, I've not had a skidplate at all...and I've got no carnage of that sort... closest thing was when I had my rear strut extensions cranked up to about 5", and no other diff blocks than the 1" mustache bar ones....broke a coulple rear axles that way....oops...no more problems though

well, the boys over at allied armament retrofitted a snorkel made for a jeep onto their wagon, maybe that's the one you're thinking of