Numbchux

that is just NOT TRUE.... maybe it's because I ran with the rear suspension adjusted up quite a bit for awhile, but my downflex is not effected. and the forward rake doesn't effect anything, there's plenty of room to trim the fender there if you'd like, and the tire can't get any closer, so you don't need as much clearance there as you would for an ozified lift...it's just not a problem and like singletrack said, the 'camber' issue, isn't any better or worse on an AA lifted car vs. any other lifted car, beleive it or not, it's virtually stock, just looks a ton worse with big tires on it. as a matter of fact, the camber on MorganM's old 3" BYB lifted wagon on 29's was WAY worse than mine! EDIT: torxx...I just noticed that you said you're using a high clearance lift, but the front geometry is the same......what?....the high clearance 4" lift uses 4" strut extensions, and 3" engine tranny xmember blocks (or at least mine does)...also, do you have the adjustable extensions in the rear, or the 4" relocation plates on the top?

I'd say as long as the rust isn't structural, you're not snapping the strap (getting a run at it), and you're not trying to drag out a Tahoe....the stock hooks are fine. I use them when I pull my loyale parts car out of the woods (on it, I've got a D-Ring on my rear bumper)

when I got my 13" all-seasons on my '85 at discount tire, I paid a few bucks per tire to get them siped....made a world of difference! they get great traction in many conditions (didn't take it on the rocks much....but other than that), and have lasted quite long! big thumbs up here!!

can't get the bolt in the stub out? I got this idea from McBrat, it's a hand impact tool, you hit it on the end with a hammer, and it puts a little torque on the bolt, that way it's harder to round off the bolt head, I found one in the JCWhitney catalog, it was cheap ($$), but it was cheap (POS), I'll see if I can find it on their website so you can get an idea.

that's too bad man I had great luck! I'd also like to say that my high clearance lift uses 3" engine/tranny xmember blocks, and 4" strut extensions....which works very well with OEM axles, it eats reman'd axles, and if you get excited with adjustable struts, it eats any axles.....trust me, I went through 4 front axles in the first couple months....then I put the struts back down to 'stock' height, and replaced my last reman'd axle with a junkyard OEM one (with a new boot), and have about 5k miles on that setup...

I don't think there are really any high quality aftermarket options other than the xt6 setup, which as tex said, isn't so good for offroading... so, I just got the cheapest reman'd stock setup I could find, and beat the heck out of it without regret

I added mine up....barely $2k, with a parts car that served as a daily driver for over a year it helps I only paid $150 for this one when I got it! and the tires were free, and I got a steal on the lift/bumper...

Glenn's right on the money there ^ for me, it was definately not practical, and probably never will be (or not anytime in the near future), the vast majority of the wheeling I do does not require a locked rear end, and rarely takes long enough to justify installing, and removing an axle. so I went with an LSD, not nearly as strong as a locker, but it'll give you an extra push, that sometimes can be enough, and is much more predictable in everyday driving (especially in the snow)

I ride a bit light, but I've had some problems with my rig, so I don't get it in any farther than I know I can get out (yet), I think I've only been pulled out of a couple things, and neither were severe (were I was actually stuck, not just broken )..... with that in mind, I've only got one strap, it's only 20ft long (and I think 3" wide, might be 3.5), and only one shackle. But the strap is hella strong, and gives a little, so you can snap it a bit if you need to and it's still pretty gentle on both cars (i.e. compared to a chain). If I were regularly pushing my car to the absolute breaking point now, I'd carry at least 2 more shackles, another, longer strap (but keep the 20 footer, sometimes it's nice to be close, it all depends on the situation), I like the tree saver strap idea, etc. hooks are bad, go with closed loop atachments whenever possible!

I paid about $40 (not sure, I bought some other stuff too...but I think that's about right). I wanted to get a nice new one, since this one would probably be exposed to the elements, and I didn't want it failing

pm replied....but for future reference, I only changed the lower rad hose due to the lift (the upper one broke shortly after, but I replaced it with a stock one and it works fine) also....I don't know how I did this....but I'm using the stock pitch stopper....just fine....I dunno I've also got the origional high clearance, love it to death!!

I went to Advance Auto and got a regular aftermarket 10" rad fan, and it fits IN FRONT of the radiator with the A/C gone, with lots of extra room, maybe try that....

so did you break the welds in the diff (i.e. now it's open), or did you lose power to both sides? I had a DOJ fail with zero external signs....jack up the front, put it in gear (in 4) and see what's spinning, and what's not

IMHO....go with tires first. I understand the lack of power issue, and you feel like you've gained a ton of clearance from the lift, but the tires are what really gets you the clearance! and you've got lo-range, sure, your top speed will drop considerably, but it'll still go, and it'll be WAY more capable off road! looks awesome! nice work

looks sweeeet! congrats!

Ummm...I've used 3AT FWD axles on my d/r 4WD car with no problems (both EA82 N/A)....I think it's just turbo vs. non-turbo

glad you got it done!! sway bar?? what's that?? oh, is that that thing that those poser offroaders leave on they're lifted rigs? hmmm....I've probably got mine in a parts pile somewhere... the camber will settle out, just give it some time, especially if you haven't driven it yet! it get's WAY better just backing it out of the garage, then put 20-30 offroad miles on it, and it'll get even better can't wait to see pics!!

so the carrier's the same...but the ring/pinion are different (EA vs. EJ)

Camber is not significantly adjustable on EA subies....not without modifications anyway (see McBrat's post) an alignment shop can only adjust toe

yea, but in order to know you're not going to get stuck on the trail (trust me ) you've got to have 4 spare reman'd with you (I wouldn't feel safe, anymore, with any less than 2 front and 2 back), I had a reman'd axle last me 2 hours of wheeling....and I replaced it with an OEM one off a loyale that got parted, it came apart much later the next day....I put it together, and used it for a couple months, replaced the boot, still using it, with hundreds of miles offroad (not exaggerating either). I feel safe on my OEM ones with zero spares. I've been left in the woods on many occasions from reman'd ones the drawback of JY axles....they can be a b*&^# to get off!

Definately

I baja'd my '92 loyale up a 6-foot embankment at ~30mph when I was 17, destroyed the control arm, and leading rod.....mounts were solid as could be. one of the mounts quite literally disappeared from rust on my '85, but was still solid. Now the welds (note the welds, the nuts are pulling off the sheet metal, not the metal itself) are breaking.... I think the lift design, and use depends on how/what will break. I slammed into a frozen mudhole a couple weeks ago with the front wheels turned and bent things up rather severely, and with the 3 individual blocks, it put some nasty torque on things that shouldn't get it.... and here's a couple pics of the bracket on morgan's old '88... http://www.mnchopshop.org/images/usmb/bad_rust_02.jpg http://www.mnchopshop.org/images/usmb/bad_rust_03.jpg

also keep in mind that tires are expensive, and get more expensive at an alarming rate as the size get's bigger....if you're including wheels and tires, $1000 will barely get you 4" You'd be suprised how fast expenses rack up when building up a car also....in my experience....reman'd axles aren't worth the warranty.....junkyard OEM ones are worth the money 2000 times over!

wow....I didn't realize the BYB kit didn't....definately do it!

Yes, loyales came with what were called EA82 motors, They're already coil and disty, and in '85 and '86, came with a carb from the factory (MPFI and turbo was an option....), and many have upgraded to a Weber carb. Some prefer the EA81 engines for planes...simpler, timing chain instead of belts, smaller....and there are a bunch of performance parts for them with the idea of using them in planes