Numbchux

looks sweet.....but I doubt there's much subaru left

RX has 3.7

hooorah for the resurected thread!

hehe. yea, I did, I just got your message, and am leaving soon to come home...I'll call you on the way!

I beleive an early '90's turbo legacy could have a 3.9 VLSD

Hey...I recognize most of those cars...hehe and who's that crazy kid with the White-boy 'fro workin on his car in the snow?? what a nut hehe.......nice pic!

IMHO the EJ tranny needs a lo range more than real locking center.... btw...austin's got a 5-speed too

this is as close to an all encompassing write-up that I've seen: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=387144&postcount=3 personally...I wouldn't try to do it in 3 days, especially if you've got zero back-up. there's alot to be done, especially in the wiring, and there's alot that can go wrong.

I beleive it's neither....direct gear driven

I was watching the WCSS6 DVD of austin's and you can hear suberdave's snorkle makes a ton of noise (it's a turbo....btw), and it sounds really neat!

sorry...but that's a little off....for example, there's a trail I've been down a couple times here, that's an ATV trail, with swamp on either side, and big gnolls. my right rear tire get's about 3-4 FEET off the ground, and I'm still going up hill, there is no way you could get over it with an open rear end, period. maybe with some JATO packs you could just jump it, but a welded rear would make it a cakewalk.

I'm running with them all off...no problems yet (almost 10k miles)

that is just NOT TRUE.... maybe it's because I ran with the rear suspension adjusted up quite a bit for awhile, but my downflex is not effected. and the forward rake doesn't effect anything, there's plenty of room to trim the fender there if you'd like, and the tire can't get any closer, so you don't need as much clearance there as you would for an ozified lift...it's just not a problem and like singletrack said, the 'camber' issue, isn't any better or worse on an AA lifted car vs. any other lifted car, beleive it or not, it's virtually stock, just looks a ton worse with big tires on it. as a matter of fact, the camber on MorganM's old 3" BYB lifted wagon on 29's was WAY worse than mine! EDIT: torxx...I just noticed that you said you're using a high clearance lift, but the front geometry is the same......what?....the high clearance 4" lift uses 4" strut extensions, and 3" engine tranny xmember blocks (or at least mine does)...also, do you have the adjustable extensions in the rear, or the 4" relocation plates on the top?

I'd say as long as the rust isn't structural, you're not snapping the strap (getting a run at it), and you're not trying to drag out a Tahoe....the stock hooks are fine. I use them when I pull my loyale parts car out of the woods (on it, I've got a D-Ring on my rear bumper)

when I got my 13" all-seasons on my '85 at discount tire, I paid a few bucks per tire to get them siped....made a world of difference! they get great traction in many conditions (didn't take it on the rocks much....but other than that), and have lasted quite long! big thumbs up here!!

can't get the bolt in the stub out? I got this idea from McBrat, it's a hand impact tool, you hit it on the end with a hammer, and it puts a little torque on the bolt, that way it's harder to round off the bolt head, I found one in the JCWhitney catalog, it was cheap ($$), but it was cheap (POS), I'll see if I can find it on their website so you can get an idea.

that's too bad man I had great luck! I'd also like to say that my high clearance lift uses 3" engine/tranny xmember blocks, and 4" strut extensions....which works very well with OEM axles, it eats reman'd axles, and if you get excited with adjustable struts, it eats any axles.....trust me, I went through 4 front axles in the first couple months....then I put the struts back down to 'stock' height, and replaced my last reman'd axle with a junkyard OEM one (with a new boot), and have about 5k miles on that setup...

I don't think there are really any high quality aftermarket options other than the xt6 setup, which as tex said, isn't so good for offroading... so, I just got the cheapest reman'd stock setup I could find, and beat the heck out of it without regret

I added mine up....barely $2k, with a parts car that served as a daily driver for over a year it helps I only paid $150 for this one when I got it! and the tires were free, and I got a steal on the lift/bumper...

Glenn's right on the money there ^ for me, it was definately not practical, and probably never will be (or not anytime in the near future), the vast majority of the wheeling I do does not require a locked rear end, and rarely takes long enough to justify installing, and removing an axle. so I went with an LSD, not nearly as strong as a locker, but it'll give you an extra push, that sometimes can be enough, and is much more predictable in everyday driving (especially in the snow)

I ride a bit light, but I've had some problems with my rig, so I don't get it in any farther than I know I can get out (yet), I think I've only been pulled out of a couple things, and neither were severe (were I was actually stuck, not just broken )..... with that in mind, I've only got one strap, it's only 20ft long (and I think 3" wide, might be 3.5), and only one shackle. But the strap is hella strong, and gives a little, so you can snap it a bit if you need to and it's still pretty gentle on both cars (i.e. compared to a chain). If I were regularly pushing my car to the absolute breaking point now, I'd carry at least 2 more shackles, another, longer strap (but keep the 20 footer, sometimes it's nice to be close, it all depends on the situation), I like the tree saver strap idea, etc. hooks are bad, go with closed loop atachments whenever possible!

I paid about $40 (not sure, I bought some other stuff too...but I think that's about right). I wanted to get a nice new one, since this one would probably be exposed to the elements, and I didn't want it failing

pm replied....but for future reference, I only changed the lower rad hose due to the lift (the upper one broke shortly after, but I replaced it with a stock one and it works fine) also....I don't know how I did this....but I'm using the stock pitch stopper....just fine....I dunno I've also got the origional high clearance, love it to death!!

I went to Advance Auto and got a regular aftermarket 10" rad fan, and it fits IN FRONT of the radiator with the A/C gone, with lots of extra room, maybe try that....

so did you break the welds in the diff (i.e. now it's open), or did you lose power to both sides? I had a DOJ fail with zero external signs....jack up the front, put it in gear (in 4) and see what's spinning, and what's not