Numbchux

nope, no issue.... ok, I know what you're talking about, but I don't know why people still think it's an issue. so I'll post this pic again, it makes it pretty obvious. Yes, the rear tire is closer to the front of the wheel well than the back. but it can't get any closer...I've put a big red dot right where the trailing arm pivot point is, the hub cannot get any closer to this point, therefore the tire clearance doesn't matter there. and here are a couple articulation pics of the two rear tires of my car right after the lift. upflex: and downflex: notice how the tire never get's any closer to the front, I have rub marks on my mudflap, and a few nicks in the tire from the top of the fender, but it's never touched the front, and it never will.

This is how the USMB is becoming, too many people with too much ego. this has become a place for advance fact, not helpful opinions...that's why I haven't posted on this thread, or many others.

agreed, try this, but even if the castle nut isn't spinning, look under the car, follow the CV axles from the tranny, out to the hub. part of one side will probably be spinning, see where it stops spinning (i.e. axle spinnig, outer cv cup not...)

good plan, at the very least, I can't imagine a missing oil filler cap could be helping.

yes....so you coming??

I think I live in one of the most subie-less areas of the country. I've only seen a couple EA81's of any kind that weren't board members. or any turbo's, or... Anyway, yes, there are more rare subarus, yes, there are much faster subarus, no, they're not really anything that impressive. BUT, they're special, they've got all the luxury options, I don't need to list them. and for one, the D/R FT4WD tranny. I'm not going to say what you can and cannot wheel. but I just think these are too beautiful to beat up that much. not to mention the stock turbo motor, coupled with the not-so-lo lo range, would make crawling virtually impossible.

looks pretty cool, I considered doing side-dump exhaust (not up the side of the car, just stopping even with the body), but then noticed all the dents scratches etc. where the pipe would be....I decided against it.

don't worry about getting it ready for battle...there's a wide variety of trails up there, it'd be soooooo cool if there was more than one sub there!

you know I've got a list of stuff I want...

for the record, I've NEVER seen one in person

so do we, so it is

It's true, the BYB/PKD lift has been proven over years of use...but speed and ease of contact was by far the deciding factor for me. If PK had been easy to get ahold of, and half as fast as AA is, I would've had a BYB lifted wagon back when we first heard of this guy in oregon making lifts through Les (previous owner of one of AA's test vehicles). bottom line, AA lifts are awesome! the company's great to work with, easy to get ahold of etc. BYB just can't compete, not here in the US, unless he's made some drastic changes in the last 9 months. don't forget SJR! I bought a diff shim from him so I can go higher...also very fast, great product, all easily done through paypal on his website: http://www.sjrlift.com

I like that alot! very clean!

good point, and on a TT ER27, this might be crucial!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44522 see post #2 for my opinions, and my wagon

agreed keep it simple, and clean, I'd say clean up the whole bay body color. Then paint the block another color, and then just clean up everything else with either flat black (makes for a really clean look, IMHO) or silver/metallic/chrome...

I've mounted a second handle, but haven't had time to try to hook up the cables. I've thought about it, but just haven't had the time. and am still working things out to get the rig set up how I want.... anyway, it wouldn't be too great in the really hairy obstacles, like a really technical hillclimb where momentum is key, where you'd be concentrating on your line, etc. but if you got hung up on a log or something, you could easily pull yourself the last few inches over it, instead of taking a bigger run at it. I've found that the wheeling I do, a little posi all the time in the rear will probably help me more than dual ebrake...

just a heads up to everyone in the MN area. I'm sure you saw this morgan, but thought I'd make sure Austin and others saw it... MN-Jeep has a trip listed like every weekend, but I can and am going to this one (unless my wagon blows up before then, in which case I'll probably ride in my buddy's wrangler). Let's have a few guys show up!! it's at the Iron Range ORV park in Gilbert MN, about 30-45min north of duluth. http://mn-jeep.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3833

now I have to think of a new idea....I was going to use a darker blue in otherwords, I LOVE IT!!

seriously, the torch won't destroy the CV, well, not a Mapp or propane one. just heat up the metal (the narrow part on the end, not the whole cup) a bunch, you'd be suprised how much that can help.

I didn't with my AA kit either, some things took a little careful tapping/persuading, but everything went in VERY well

biggest piece of advice I can give: use a ratcheting strap, comealong, or similar to pull things into place, and hold them there. this was a big help both times I had things taken apart.

The part-time 4WD boxes are better for offroad. no center diff at all. either disengaged (FWD) for on road. or engaged (4WD) offroad. also, as mentioned already, these have a lower lo range, and better lo-end torque.

more proof that a snorkel is overrated!

+1 for torch! but be careful of the seals on the diff. my buddy used an acetelyne torch on mine to get it off. got the cup RED hot, and it slid right off (with a big ol' leather glove of course)