Numbchux

I like that alot! very clean!

good point, and on a TT ER27, this might be crucial!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44522 see post #2 for my opinions, and my wagon

agreed keep it simple, and clean, I'd say clean up the whole bay body color. Then paint the block another color, and then just clean up everything else with either flat black (makes for a really clean look, IMHO) or silver/metallic/chrome...

I've mounted a second handle, but haven't had time to try to hook up the cables. I've thought about it, but just haven't had the time. and am still working things out to get the rig set up how I want.... anyway, it wouldn't be too great in the really hairy obstacles, like a really technical hillclimb where momentum is key, where you'd be concentrating on your line, etc. but if you got hung up on a log or something, you could easily pull yourself the last few inches over it, instead of taking a bigger run at it. I've found that the wheeling I do, a little posi all the time in the rear will probably help me more than dual ebrake...

just a heads up to everyone in the MN area. I'm sure you saw this morgan, but thought I'd make sure Austin and others saw it... MN-Jeep has a trip listed like every weekend, but I can and am going to this one (unless my wagon blows up before then, in which case I'll probably ride in my buddy's wrangler). Let's have a few guys show up!! it's at the Iron Range ORV park in Gilbert MN, about 30-45min north of duluth. http://mn-jeep.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3833

now I have to think of a new idea....I was going to use a darker blue in otherwords, I LOVE IT!!

seriously, the torch won't destroy the CV, well, not a Mapp or propane one. just heat up the metal (the narrow part on the end, not the whole cup) a bunch, you'd be suprised how much that can help.

I didn't with my AA kit either, some things took a little careful tapping/persuading, but everything went in VERY well

biggest piece of advice I can give: use a ratcheting strap, comealong, or similar to pull things into place, and hold them there. this was a big help both times I had things taken apart.

The part-time 4WD boxes are better for offroad. no center diff at all. either disengaged (FWD) for on road. or engaged (4WD) offroad. also, as mentioned already, these have a lower lo range, and better lo-end torque.

more proof that a snorkel is overrated!

+1 for torch! but be careful of the seals on the diff. my buddy used an acetelyne torch on mine to get it off. got the cup RED hot, and it slid right off (with a big ol' leather glove of course)

you sure they don't fit? I did have to file down a couple things when I did mine, but not much. Try EVERY other combination you can think of before you modify it. the tranny blocks where VERY hard when they were 3 individual pieces on each side. I'm not really looking forward to replacing them with the updated one piece.

yes, I know, it's been discussed, and it's around somewhere, but there are so many thread about axles, and diff stubs, and.....it just took too long someone knows of the top of their head, will the spline count be the same on my rear LSD as my non-turbo 3.9 open diff? I can't get the cup off one side of my 3.9 donor, and was thinking I could just use a stub off the 3.7 LSD...

Wow...you're lifting a 3AT?? hope you like replacing them, or leaving stock tires on a lifted car. might wanna update the older gen thread, so if people in the future searching for info the lift know that it was you're fault, not AA's

*yawn* Does it still work? I say wheel on!!! I've got some that look like that, the one that came off the rear of my '85 looked exactly like that, I guess I'd been driving it (in lots of mud, of course) like that for awhile. it was conveniant when the cup wouldn't come off the stub though....just pulled the DOJ apart.

come on man, we all have had experience with brett, in one way or another, this site wouldn't be what it is if it weren't for brett and the BYB. you do realize he's in australia don't you?

come on man! accidents happen, they're shipping out a bunch of lifts in a short amount of time...and he actually dropped a couple of the wrong parts in one of them? woa! relax!

nope...this was just a good excuse to add bedliner instead of carpet, and rubber plugged drain holes under the seats! I'll get through that puddle yet!

I will when I get it, unfortunately the camera was out of battery when it happened, but my buddy was standing on the shore (I think an accurate term) with the DV camera. unfortunately I won't be getting ahold of if until the weekend, at which point, there will be pictures, and probably video!

no, the linkage stays. it's just the little plate that goes underneath them...I left mine off after I did the clutch. there's alot of other things that will get hit before the linkage, and alot of other things I'd be at least as worried about destroying.

The link just doesn't come up for me. blank page....'done' at the bottom of the screen. tried with firefox and IE

yep, FWD struts are shorter than 4WD struts, and I think loyale struts are shorter than GL struts. plus the honda spring, I bet you've got a crazy rake going there! yep, neutral switch, older gl's had a clutch switch, newer ea82's had it on the tranny. it'll throw the code, but that's about it, as far as I can tell... oh yea, and how did you go about attaching the center driveshaft bearing?

Well....first of all, does he still have the adjustable rear strut extensions on the bottom? or just the mount relocators on the top? I have the high clearance lift, so I ordered a 2" diff shim from sjr to easy my axle angles a bit, and then I'm cranking up my strut extensions!!! the lift still drops your engine xmember 3" (only raised one...) so you're bumper will be higher, but the rest is left low. here's a pic, keep in mind that everything is raised an additional 3" from the tires (6" total taller diameter), look how low the oil pan, xmember, etc. is: careful on the front strut top bolts, the ones welded into the extension, I broke 2 of mine off reinstalling them after putting adjustable struts on the front (bad idea....bye bye cv's). there's enough pressure on 'em from the car resting on the struts to keep things from moving, but nonetheless, I need to fix this soon. go for it in your driveway! I had 2 jackstands, 2 floor jacks, and a scissors jack (for finetuning, with a couple big chunks of wood so it could reach the car.) I used the scissors to push the xmembers up tight against the blocks while I tightened the bolts. also, with the xmembers detached from the rest of the car, things tend to shift, and not line up right anymore. I used a pair of ratcheting tie-down straps to pull things to where I needed them. I used this again when I pulled the tranny for a clutch job a month ago or so. worked great!