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Numbchux

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Everything posted by Numbchux

  1. speaking from experience....make sure your electronics are protected first, not possible to do as much damage, but alot easier to get stuck in 2+ feet of water. seal up your disty especially!
  2. just put a little bit of electrical tape over the light....I've been known to do this
  3. true, but so can the struts, the struts are longer between the bottom spring mount, and where it attaches at the bottom. same idea, but different. you can also add tighter springs (like those off an OB, or forester) and lift it more.
  4. assuming you have an EA82 (might work with others, but I don't know), it CAN be done without removing the door panel, but it's a PITA! you could just pull out the little plastic clips (i.e. yank on the door panel, and they pop out, usually) and fold it up, and do the whole thing from the ground, with the door panel leaning on your head... or you could take out the 3 screws that hold the handle on, pull of the little plastic trim piece from around the latch/lock, pop off the same plastic clips, and lift the whole panel off the door, makes for VERY easy access to the speakers....I'd definately recommend this!
  5. my engine fan was touching my skidplate...but the skidplate didn't reach the x-member. maybe that's part of your problem, my skidplate was like 2" too short. AND I took off the mechanical fan... and if the fan is hitting the skidplate, than pitching it back will to the opposite, it'll give you more space...you're driving it without the pitch stopper attached? just giv 'er a try, pull of the skidplate, tilt the engine back some, if you really have to jack hard to get it to reach, don't go there, but if it seems to tilt relatively easy, go for it.
  6. not quite, the OB struts are longer too...
  7. yea, there's no boot around the shifter, nothing at all, just a big hole, and shift linkage. I can see the driveshaft spinning..... and it wasn't cause I hit the puddle hard....
  8. Maybe this will answer your question... the control arms are attached to the engine crossmember, so yes, they are lowered too
  9. I wish it were that simple.... and that's from gilbert...we went back :lol:
  10. your a few months too late. someone posted that like the day after it came out.
  11. it's a vacuum actuated system, so ther'es a little vacuum hose going from the intake to a canister on the passenger side firewall under the hood. This hose comes unplugged all the time on my car....check it. also, mine doesn't seal right, so there isn't enough vacuum for it to work at idle, try pushing a button when at higher rpm's, like just before shifting.
  12. I don't think a story can do justice to what I did to my car last weekend, but it'll be a week and a half or so until I can get the video up, so I'll just post a pic or 2 of the aftermath...
  13. yea, they say that about MN too...and trust me, as someone who has been to AK twice...MN's way worse!
  14. I got this, as I've had the link bookmarked since he posted it... http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/ragtopsunroofs.html don't remember what dimensions he went with, but I think I'll get one a bit longer so there's open air over my head.
  15. ah yes...I see that now.... essentially same motor, but have to find room for the turbo too...
  16. oh yea, and about the rad hoses. the passenger one is fine (little more strain, so if it's old and crispy, it might break, mine did....but it reaches fine), and the driver side one could be made fit. here's the deal: the two ports that need to be connected (tube from water pump on block, and radiator) actually get closer together, so you could trim the stock hose to fit, using the bend that's already in it. I found that when I did this, the hose had shrunk in the middle (220k miles and almost 20 yrs could do that), so I took the piece that I had cut almost exactly to size to NAPA, and told them I needed to replicate that, but a bit bigger diameter, and he looked in his book, and found something with a nice bend in it, I had to trim it too, but it worked perfectly. be creative, there's nothing too hard... also, about the pitch-stopper, maybe try a jack & wood block on the oil pan to tilt the whole thing back a bit, that's a trick someone suggested for changing the clutch (to align engine and tranny easier), I did it when I did my clutch, and didn't take the jack off until I had the pitch stopper back on. it worked fine!
  17. sweet! I'd like to do something like that (when I get my ragtop), unfortunately, bugs are a bigger problem than shade. I got this idea from my uncle, take mosquito netting, cut to the size and shape of the windows, and put refrigerator magnets on the sides. then you can roll down the windows some, and stick in the nets to keep the bugs out.... also, some sort of tent, maybe similar to that, but wider, that would allow you to get from the side doors, to the rear hatch, and stay dry...
  18. relatively common swap. check the retroffiting forum for more info, search around, there's lots of info here.
  19. my pitch stopper was fine.....don't know what's up there... there's a nut on the bottom of the shift linkage, that holds it to the unibody, the hole is actually slotted, loosen the nut, let it adjust for the extra length, then tighten it again. should work much better.
  20. +1 not to nock pkd, but AA is very fast, and in great touch, very easy to get ahold of/work with
  21. mine was seized, couldn't feel it with it in the car, but when I pulled it out to do a clutch job, I couldn't move either joint in the rear half, I replaced it and now the noise is reduced soooo much!!
  22. yea, that's the idea, but mine never worked (on either car) the only negative effect, seems to be the CEL
  23. I too would like to add my $.02 about the kits. QMan is very right, it's a high maintenence vehicle now. also, it is a bolt up install. I don't have the one piece tranny xmember/leading rod blocks, I still have 6 individual blocsk which were hard enough to install. also, make sure you have them on the right side, this is just a guess, maybe it's painfully obvious, but maybe not. if they're not ligning up at all, make sure you've got 'em on right. don't fret, it's a great kit, and quite easy to install, but some cars just work better than others. my engine crossmember shifted quite a bit while I was installing it, and those blocks where a total pain!!!
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