Numbchux

+1....use PVC!

I want to hear more about this beast! is it just mid-engined? or is does it also have the stock engine...let's hear about it! also, I think your site is down...I haven't been able to get on it the last coule times I've tried.

don't think I haven't thought about it!

Jay, I think I remember a post by corky about the UltimateRX's new owner getting it running...don't quote me on it, but my mind is telling me it happened... will...looks awesome! I admire your persistance on making one of the coolest/fastest subarus I know, and sticking with the EA82 motor! more power to you!!!

That's why I say that drilling and tapping is out of the question, for now, I had to go buy a set of ratchet wrenches just to get the bolts off. and since I'm going EJ22 next summer, I'm totally up for crappy repairs. I think I'll try the RTV trick. Thanks! do you think that will work for the bolt seal too? the threads for that bolt are GONE, so the bolt will just fall out otherwise.

so I finally fixed my crazy oil leak by replacing the valve cover gaskets (the old ones where so dried and cracked, they just broke, no flexibilty) with new, OEM ones, along with the rubber seals around the bolts...anyway, while I was torqueing down the passenger side, one of the bolt-holes stripped out. and of course, when something attached to the motor strips, it's never the bolt....nooooo, it's got to be the hole in the head! :banghead: I've got a piece of wire wrapped around a few other bolts nearby keeping pressure on it now, and it only leaks a bit (less than it did before) but it's a really half@$$ed fix. is there an easy way to fix this? I don't want to drill and tap, and the block get's too hot for JBWeld (I've tried it....). I can have my mom bring up a head from my spare block at their place in a couple weeks, but I'm kinda worried about it for now... also, if I replace the head, I should probably replace both head gaskets too shouldn't I? which means changing the oil again! grrrr!!!!

HAHA, that isn't articulation, that back wheel is so far up the suspension isn't even compressed anymore! I took a couple of my car this morning (after swaybar removal) but it looks like crap cause there's crap on my lense (who'd a thunk?) I took it up to Best Buy (yay service plan) and I should have it back before long. anyway, here was my attempt:

I don't! Well, if there was one that was like the RX Dual-Range FT4WD box, with the same lo range ratio as the PT4WD D/R box, and locking center, I'd LOVE that! I hate 2WD, but like having true lo range 4wd more for offroad. If I had a car that I was only running on-road, I'd want AWD or FT4WD. a PT4WD tranny with the 3.7 ratio will probalby yeild the best mileage. though you still have to turn the rear diff and driveshaft, so it won't be as good as just FWD.

holy crap!!! nice, can't wait until the lift is done! got any more pics, like of the front? sounds awesome, even though it's not done

They're 215-75-r15's come out to almost 28" tall, and that picture is on level ground, no articulation... problem with lower gears, is there (apparently, I've never torn one apart) isn't any extra room in the tranny for larger gears...

I got mine @ Napa, again...no problem

I ran with just a y-pipe and the thrush , and it sounded very nice! until the y fell off the motor on one side... morgan: I see!!

hey! that's my car! I just used MS paint to put a dot where the trailing arm pivot point is. this means that the hub cannot get any closer, or further away from that point. so on upflex, the tire goes back, and on downflex, the tire moves forward some. but no issues, the high-clearance lift does put too much stress on the axles to be doing anything really nuts (I'm going to get a drop-plate from SJR for my diff), but not too bad. the independent suspension design means that the diff doesn't move, so the driveshaft doesn't need to compensate for anything, it's just dropped down with everything else BYB is the specialty on EA81 style lifts, however, I've hear that PK Davis isn't making them, at least for awhile. check the FAQ for the link to his site AA makes EA81 lifts, and they do great work! and have other options that are easier on axle angles too. SJR makes lifts, not sure about EA81 or not, but I bet he does, mostly higher ones, 6-8" or so. and if your in the area, Mudrat79 can make one. Oh yea...and let me know if you find a way to lower the gearing! not much possibility there though...

sounds like you're not going there... I know a few people out in the suburbs, and up north, that have a ton of land, and we rip those up quite a bit. but that's it!

I just used exhaust clamps. basically a beefed up c clamp, got it at champion auto. and morgan...I don't think your car sounds bad at all. I like mine better, but my glass pack was 2x as much as yours...

one more thing, trespassing, and destruction of wetlands etc. is what give ORV's a bad name, and therefore what causes more restrictions on legal use. Don't screw it up!

I don't think they sound bad. I love mine! there's a guy on mnsubaru that has a straightpiped impreza L with nothing but a glasspack, and nice wide tip, and it sounds AWESOME!! I like my car's sound, not 'ricey' but lower

inner diameter (ID) I think so, but outer diameter (OD) is 2", or very close, yes, I mounted it in the stock location, it's hard because there's a bend right before muffler, so you have to cut the pipe as close to it as possible, and make sure you get the clamp super tight (and recheck it while it's hot!), or weld it....this also means that it'll be held tight up against the heat sheild...and you will probably also want to put a tip on the end pointing down, otherwise your rear bumper will get hot and sooty..... didn't notice any performance increase, but the stock muffler was completely rusted through, no restriction there. and I *still* haven't removed the cat....that is where the power will come from.

I do know a couple spots, but they aren't that great, not really worth the drive, and I won't be in town until thanksgiving....but maybe then looks awesome kurt!

it's your responsibility to find out if it's private property or not, and therefore, your responsibility to find out if it's ok with the owner. I only go if the owner invites me to.

the driveshaft can only bolt back together in one of 2 orientations. the bolt pattern is not a square, so if you think it's off, try flipping it 180* the 2 halves of my driveshaft are from 2 different subies, no vibrations (actually less, since now my rear u-joints aren't seized...).

I have a Thrush glasspack on mine, otherwise stock exhaust. sounds quite nice, still pretty quiet because of the cats, but good sound. mine was about $30 shipped from ebay. The stock EA82 is a 2" OD pipe (get a glasspack with a 2" inlet)

2WD struts are shorter...

I'm thinking of haveing the pieces made into a 1-piece driveshaft, so when I get around to doing the 4WD swap on my loyale, I don't have to worry about the center bearing (as it will probably get lifted a year or 2 after I do the swap, so I don't want to weld it). anyone have anythoughts on this? I'm thinking since the diff and tranny stay essentially immobile, and there'd still be a u-joint at either end, it shouldn't be an issue. am I missing something?

so when I was putting everything together after my clutch/tranny job, I noticed that my 2nd and 3rd U-joints (from the front) where bad, especially the back one, it's impossible to move by hand! (for those of you at the MW3 campground....that would explain the sound!) luckily, I had a second driveshaft sitting in the garage (how nice!) and just popped it in. but can these be replaced? or should I start looking for a JY 4WD subie with low mileage?