Numbchux

hehee, nice work! have I told you that I love your wagon?!? cause I do!

OK, just checking in. so I've been driving the heck out of my '88 wagon with the 4" AA kit in it. unfortunately I've only had it offroad a few times, couple of my local watering holes, and one trip to the iron range offroad park (see crawl 4 cure thread) where, as most of you know, I gnarled 2 rear axles... well, as most of you have figured out, the rear lift design is tough on the rear axles, it really pushes them to the limit, and at the time, I had my suspension adjusted up almost another full inch (big no-no!) and many reman'd axles. I've been in touch with shadyirishmen (a great businessman, contrary to popular beleif) about reengineering the rear design some to drop the diff more. I love the clearance I get from leaving the suspension arms up tight against the body, but the diff needs to come down more. I'd really like to get a block for the front bracket of the diff, but we'll see how that pans out. he's suggesting 1" blocks under the suspension arm mounts, and 2" at the mustache bar (as apposed to 0 and 1 respectively). and I hear they've now unified the leading rod/tranny mount blocks into one beefy block! and something about a skidplate, but I haven't heard about that in awhile either, I'll let him comment on that as much as he'd like. well, the biggest problem I have with axles is CVJ/DOJ boots tearing, losing grease, then ball bearings fall out, then joint no worky...but the 2 napa reman'd axles' (the other predated my owning the 2 parts cars from which the other axles came) cages broke. making for an explosive failure, rather then it just not working anymore...well, JcWhitney has a 'stronger' 'more durable' etc. universal CV boot, that was about the same price as a boot kit from napa, and since I was ordering some other things from them, shipping wasn't that much more. so I'll be trying that too. anyway, I go to college in Duluth, my girlfriend lives in Duluth, and my parents live in the Twin Cities, so I make the 3 hour 'commute' from the cities to duluth every couple weeks, plus a trip to Des Moines for Midwest 3, so I've put on about 5000 miles (well, the dash says about 3500....but...) so it's about time to change the oil, and check for bent/twisted/loose/busted.... anything. the only problem I found was I had a mustach bar bolt fall out, but I blame this solely on myself, I stripped one of the 2 in the installation, and instead of drilling/tapping, I had my buddy weld the mount onto the block, and the bolt onto the mount and only used the other bolt. this has worked fine, except the one bolt in there likes to work itself loose, it fell out in the campground at midwest 3....oops! anyway, time for an oil change and new valve cover gaskets (they leak like sivs), and try to track down the source of my coolant leak (I think my water pump install is leaking too....crap)

I've had these little buggers for for about a year now, and I love 'em. they're small, black, and bright. They're combination driving and fog lights, 2 bulbs per light, same bulb, just different diffusers, one short and wide, one narrow and long... I had 'em mounted on the top of my bumper on my '85, and now have them in the turn signal slots on my '88 (rewired the turn signals to the corner parking lights...) and will have mounts built into my front bumper, when I can afford to get that. anyway, here they are on my rig: and a nice pic where you can see both bulbs and they're different diffusers: here's a link to hella's page about them: http://www.hella.com/produktion/Optilux/WebSite/AuxiliaryLights/DrivingLamps/Model_2020/Model_2020.jsp and I got them from JCWhitney.com for about $60 shipped. anyway, the only drawback is the switch it comes with, is DPDT, so you can only have one set on at a time. well, they come with 2 independent circuits, relays and everything, so I went to radioshack and bought some little toggle switches, and mounted them under my radio (along with one for my roof lights, and one for my rad fan), so now I can have them both on at the same time. it's nice! highly recommended!

yea, you could just remove the rear one, but the one in the y is a pain, short of disconnecting it from the heads (hmm maybe just one side?) I don't know of a way to troubleshoot it. I don't know about your area, but here in MN it's almost impossible to find y pipe that's not completely rusted through, and I'm far to cheap to pay anyone to make me one...luckily, my parts car had one more good luck!

I've heard of people taking it out without a hoist, I plan on doing it that way myself with my parts car. I guess one person just grabs on to either head, and lift 'er out!

oh, duh, I guess I could've looked at the title line. I mostly wanted to know if it was carbed or FI, and since you didn't say turbo (not common, especially in loyales), I assume it's SPFI.... anyway, is there a sound related to the shake? knocking or anything? does it get better as the engine warms up? just say McBrat's gorgeous low mileage brat a couple weeks ago, and it has a bit of a shake to it when it's cold, so much you can see the car physically wobble back and forth, it has great condition stock exhaust, so it's real quite, it's kind of weird, it's like someone's rocking the car physically from the other side... but once it warms up it smooths out alot

timing and running rich are seperate, sorry, that wasn't clear...I meant either thing could be possible as far as running it with the air cleaner off, just try it in parked, and rev it a couple times, see if it stumbles or not, if it doesn't, and does with the filter on, that certainly isn't helping... I agree on the exhaust, though not sure of a good way to check it, maybe you're cat is clogged...I think they make some stuff you can run through it (not sure how, just remember reading about it in jcwhitney) hope this helps...good luck! here's that cleaner stuff....maybe you can find it locally http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2000760/showCustom-0/p-2000760/N-111+600001133+10201/c-10101

agreed...but I need a 'new' tranny, EJ adapter plate, and front LSD would be really nice to go along with it....I hope this works out.

+3! carbide and titanium bits are nice...but in this case, it might be easier to replace...

agreed....it sounds like you're running too rich try running it with your air cleaner out, maybe it's clogged and isn't letting enough air in...

I don't think it's an idle speed problem....in fact, I doubt it's much of a problem at all.... it's hard to diagnose how serious the vibration is over the internet, but I wouldn't worry about it if the Check engine light (CEL) isn't on, and all of your fluids are fine (specifically if you're losing coolant or something like that). my '85 carbed EA82 had the "engine" fuse blow, and ran real rich, before I figured it out I manually cranked up the idle to keep it running, when I figured out and replaced the fuse, the idle was almost 1500 rpm's, didn't make it run any more rough, then I adjusted it down to about 500, still pretty smooth (point: it doesn't matter...) just for kicks...what subaru is this exactly?

nope...it's got a cable.

We'll try to plan on going next year, it'll be easier to make the long road trip with an EJ motor. We're still not out for this year, but probably....mostly because of $$$, and as a result, no front tow points....

I, too, am home safe, that bolt never gave me any more issues.. anyway, had an awesome time, plan on me coming next year! pics:

well, I don't know about the blind part, but it's in the latest issue of Road & Track, and I thought the same thing, but it just said "photo by..." not "photo illustration by..." and there's another picture of that same car in the article, just not next to the truck.

yea...what are they called Mattraxx or something? I see 'em at the State Fair every year and think "I wonder if that would fit on my sub", than see the price (5 digits, easy) and it never becomes of anything.

We'll probably sleep in the wagon...in owatonna friday, then at the campground saturday, if that works out...but I threw in a tent in case we just don't really want to try to set it up for one night...

well, maybe 'floating' isn't the right term, but it won't sink as far as without them. I know it would've gotten my buddies ATV much farther a few times out in the swamp yep, this would be horrible for the car, the leverage would be very hard on wheel bearings, and probably tie rod ends, and ball joints too.

on full-size trucks...yes, more weight...on an ORV...more surface area...idea being, floating over the mud, instead of sinking into it. Skinny tires are great for getting through the crap down to the solid base, but if the whole is deep enough, you'll get high-centered before you reach bottom.

agreed, now we're up to 5! and how else can you get thumbs up from almost anything on the road, for this cheap!?

or just going through deep enough stuff to send it up over the hood....though I doubt an STi would do a very good job in stuff that deep...

My GF and I will be there on Saturday sometime, and planning on staying that night.

I broke my rears offroad, no doubt it was because I was on the go pedal at full extension, but the fronts always fail onroad. on the freeway, in the middle of nowhere.

with 2 lifted wagons!!! both me and morgan showed up, I stayed all night, more people showed after you left, and fuji dropped his welded diff into his impreza and whipped a few donuts in the parking lot!!

I just blew up ANOTHER front CV...and NOBODY can blame that on AA!!! the front is the same as BYB. I've broken one rear axle beyond repair, and 5 fronts...reman'd = crap! btw, napa's reman'd axles have a barcode sticker on 'em.