Numbchux

that's how I pulled my engine and tranny out of the parts car today! it's being scrapped in a couple weeks, so I had fenders, bumper, headlights, grill, radiator, A/C everything out already...but I lowered the front onto a board, unbolted the four crossmember nuts (after everything else was already disconnected), then literally just lifted the shell up off it (no hood either, balancing on tires under the b pillar). Then I just dragged the whole thing out from under it. worked awesome!

unfortunately, I don't have any specific help, but I can point you in the right direction. first off, here, your legacy is in the newer generation.... second, for raising it, check out the off road forum for lots of info regarding that, check out the FAQ link at the top for some info, than search around for more, you're not the only one with these questions!

pretty safe bet that I won't be there, I'll be a last-minute add-on if anything! sorry...

the leading rod? I've done that...oops

really? I've had them awhile, and no problems...though before they were above my bumper, and they're still up pretty far from the ground, maybe that helps...mayb I'll look into that too.

not as cheap as pk/byb...but didn't I hear that he's not making them anymore? ask me (someone who's had, and tested, to some extent, the kit in question), it's worth it, We'll be buying one for my gf's car when I get around to building it...

just have arch weld something on to it and pull it out that way :-p I've had to do some pretty gnarly prying to get an old balljoing out of a knuckle...or you could come help me pull my motor and I'll give you a knuckle that's already free of it's balljoint, unfortunately, it's still stuck to the tie rod end....but....close enough right?

wow, I wish I had that kind of money to put in my wagon! there's probably more $$$ in that stack of boxes than I put in my whole car!!! not my cup of tea, but cool nonetheless, nice work.

well, the shafts cannot be reversed, the inner joint is technically a DOJ, or double offset joint, this allows for some 'telescoping' in the joing, but not enough flex for turning...since it clicks only when you turn, it has to be the outer (true CV). a torn boot can be replaced, no need to replace the whole axle, especially if it was a good subaru axle (much higher quality than reman'd) a cv with torn boot will last much longer than a clicking one!! go back and tell him that very thing, you want a SUBARU axle with a new boot (about $15 each, have to do both for an outer). you paid for one axle, tell him to replace the one that's actually failing, and if he put a reman'd axle in the other side, to put a subaru axle in it (whether yours with new boots, or a new one if he must), and no more than ~$30 for it! (if all that doesn't work....make sure you make it very clear you're not coming back) is it 4WD, if so, don't worry about the axle failing, if it does, put it in 4WD and it'll send the power to the rear. great fix (but don't drive like this for too terribly long, especially if it's push button 4WD)

well, I'm not an EA81 expert, but I've heard of some subies having a short somewhere in the system and not getting power to the starter, but this sounds like you have a mechanical click, not an electrical click, right? as for the black thing...it looks like a vacuum device of some sort, alot like the cruise mechanism on my loyale...then again, maybe it's just a result of the power cut while the starter is engaged...I'm pretty much just guessing here.

carbed loyale??? are you sure? I'm pretty sure that after '87 all ea82's were FI... anyway, as long as there's no noise, and all the fluids are fine, and there aren't any other related symptoms (loss of power, bogging, etc.), I wouldn't worry about it a bit!

well...my haynes/chiltons manual said use a 'gasket remover tool' (or something like that) to take off the gasket, and RTV... I used a big flat chisel and some block cleaner, let it dry, and put RTV on it, and I think it leaks a bunch, but I'm too lazy to really do anything about it, I just keep adding coolant, and it keeps cooling...

as long as it's not pushbutton, you should be fine, I've heard a couple of the turbo guys screw things up, but as long as you're not doing any big powerslides on pavement or anything, it'll be fine. I do it quite frequently (#%^&$#$ reman'd axles...)

the 3AT's aren't horrible, as long as you don't mind the high rpm's at freeway speed, and the crappy mileage as a result...and don't even think about towing anything! we towed our little utility trailer up and back to our lake cabin (about 2.5 hours, one way) 3 or 4 times with a good load on it, and the last time, it burned up 3rd gear, 120,xxx miles, and time for a new tranny... well, I'm converting it to a 5speed, and D/R 4wd, sometime... and the other maintenence stuff....well, it's pretty well covered.

hehee, nice work! have I told you that I love your wagon?!? cause I do!

OK, just checking in. so I've been driving the heck out of my '88 wagon with the 4" AA kit in it. unfortunately I've only had it offroad a few times, couple of my local watering holes, and one trip to the iron range offroad park (see crawl 4 cure thread) where, as most of you know, I gnarled 2 rear axles... well, as most of you have figured out, the rear lift design is tough on the rear axles, it really pushes them to the limit, and at the time, I had my suspension adjusted up almost another full inch (big no-no!) and many reman'd axles. I've been in touch with shadyirishmen (a great businessman, contrary to popular beleif) about reengineering the rear design some to drop the diff more. I love the clearance I get from leaving the suspension arms up tight against the body, but the diff needs to come down more. I'd really like to get a block for the front bracket of the diff, but we'll see how that pans out. he's suggesting 1" blocks under the suspension arm mounts, and 2" at the mustache bar (as apposed to 0 and 1 respectively). and I hear they've now unified the leading rod/tranny mount blocks into one beefy block! and something about a skidplate, but I haven't heard about that in awhile either, I'll let him comment on that as much as he'd like. well, the biggest problem I have with axles is CVJ/DOJ boots tearing, losing grease, then ball bearings fall out, then joint no worky...but the 2 napa reman'd axles' (the other predated my owning the 2 parts cars from which the other axles came) cages broke. making for an explosive failure, rather then it just not working anymore...well, JcWhitney has a 'stronger' 'more durable' etc. universal CV boot, that was about the same price as a boot kit from napa, and since I was ordering some other things from them, shipping wasn't that much more. so I'll be trying that too. anyway, I go to college in Duluth, my girlfriend lives in Duluth, and my parents live in the Twin Cities, so I make the 3 hour 'commute' from the cities to duluth every couple weeks, plus a trip to Des Moines for Midwest 3, so I've put on about 5000 miles (well, the dash says about 3500....but...) so it's about time to change the oil, and check for bent/twisted/loose/busted.... anything. the only problem I found was I had a mustach bar bolt fall out, but I blame this solely on myself, I stripped one of the 2 in the installation, and instead of drilling/tapping, I had my buddy weld the mount onto the block, and the bolt onto the mount and only used the other bolt. this has worked fine, except the one bolt in there likes to work itself loose, it fell out in the campground at midwest 3....oops! anyway, time for an oil change and new valve cover gaskets (they leak like sivs), and try to track down the source of my coolant leak (I think my water pump install is leaking too....crap)

I've had these little buggers for for about a year now, and I love 'em. they're small, black, and bright. They're combination driving and fog lights, 2 bulbs per light, same bulb, just different diffusers, one short and wide, one narrow and long... I had 'em mounted on the top of my bumper on my '85, and now have them in the turn signal slots on my '88 (rewired the turn signals to the corner parking lights...) and will have mounts built into my front bumper, when I can afford to get that. anyway, here they are on my rig: and a nice pic where you can see both bulbs and they're different diffusers: here's a link to hella's page about them: http://www.hella.com/produktion/Optilux/WebSite/AuxiliaryLights/DrivingLamps/Model_2020/Model_2020.jsp and I got them from JCWhitney.com for about $60 shipped. anyway, the only drawback is the switch it comes with, is DPDT, so you can only have one set on at a time. well, they come with 2 independent circuits, relays and everything, so I went to radioshack and bought some little toggle switches, and mounted them under my radio (along with one for my roof lights, and one for my rad fan), so now I can have them both on at the same time. it's nice! highly recommended!

yea, you could just remove the rear one, but the one in the y is a pain, short of disconnecting it from the heads (hmm maybe just one side?) I don't know of a way to troubleshoot it. I don't know about your area, but here in MN it's almost impossible to find y pipe that's not completely rusted through, and I'm far to cheap to pay anyone to make me one...luckily, my parts car had one more good luck!

I've heard of people taking it out without a hoist, I plan on doing it that way myself with my parts car. I guess one person just grabs on to either head, and lift 'er out!

oh, duh, I guess I could've looked at the title line. I mostly wanted to know if it was carbed or FI, and since you didn't say turbo (not common, especially in loyales), I assume it's SPFI.... anyway, is there a sound related to the shake? knocking or anything? does it get better as the engine warms up? just say McBrat's gorgeous low mileage brat a couple weeks ago, and it has a bit of a shake to it when it's cold, so much you can see the car physically wobble back and forth, it has great condition stock exhaust, so it's real quite, it's kind of weird, it's like someone's rocking the car physically from the other side... but once it warms up it smooths out alot

timing and running rich are seperate, sorry, that wasn't clear...I meant either thing could be possible as far as running it with the air cleaner off, just try it in parked, and rev it a couple times, see if it stumbles or not, if it doesn't, and does with the filter on, that certainly isn't helping... I agree on the exhaust, though not sure of a good way to check it, maybe you're cat is clogged...I think they make some stuff you can run through it (not sure how, just remember reading about it in jcwhitney) hope this helps...good luck! here's that cleaner stuff....maybe you can find it locally http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2000760/showCustom-0/p-2000760/N-111+600001133+10201/c-10101

agreed...but I need a 'new' tranny, EJ adapter plate, and front LSD would be really nice to go along with it....I hope this works out.

+3! carbide and titanium bits are nice...but in this case, it might be easier to replace...

agreed....it sounds like you're running too rich try running it with your air cleaner out, maybe it's clogged and isn't letting enough air in...

I don't think it's an idle speed problem....in fact, I doubt it's much of a problem at all.... it's hard to diagnose how serious the vibration is over the internet, but I wouldn't worry about it if the Check engine light (CEL) isn't on, and all of your fluids are fine (specifically if you're losing coolant or something like that). my '85 carbed EA82 had the "engine" fuse blow, and ran real rich, before I figured it out I manually cranked up the idle to keep it running, when I figured out and replaced the fuse, the idle was almost 1500 rpm's, didn't make it run any more rough, then I adjusted it down to about 500, still pretty smooth (point: it doesn't matter...) just for kicks...what subaru is this exactly?