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Numbchux

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Everything posted by Numbchux

  1. Numbchux

    H4 Q's

    hmmm...this is a good idea, unfortunately they're mounted on my roof rack, pretty solid mount, but nothing above to mount the top to. and they'll be pretty much off-road only lights, so there'll be lots of vibration to worry about. maybe lower wattage might make them last longer?? we'll see this weekend!
  2. All EA82 Dl's came with dual headlights
  3. gound clearance is awesome, I know I've got better than virtually any vehicle out there. but suspension travel and flex is where it's at. those few inches of clearance aren't anything to the suspension travel associated with solid axles. our BIG advantage, is the point in the middle where the t-case is on those trucks, we have virtually nothing hanging below the unibody there, I have almost 20" of clearance at the "high-center" point.
  4. I really want to put in 4-point harnesses in my wagon. I get thrown around on the trail alot. and my gf is all for it! I'll probably buy some and see if I can make it work.
  5. Numbchux

    H4 Q's

    I have a pair of Hella 7" round lights in big ol' plastic cases for roof-mount. I got them from my uncle, and they're not wired at all. They're H4's with lo/high beams... 2 Q's...1. anyone know the wiring for them? I've got three contacts, and I'm not sure which is high, low, or ground. I could just try 'em, but I'd like to make sure I get it right. 2. would it be ok to run both filaments at the same time? I've got combo driving/fog lights on the front that I run both on at the same time, but they're individual bulbs, these are 2 filaments in the same bulb....would the heat be too much?
  6. GravelRX made a removable light bar...here's a couple pics from his photo gallery. do a search for posts by him, I know he's posted exactly how he did it.
  7. oops....I completely misread your post....yea...what shawn said
  8. HI EARL!!!!! sorry, I just couldn't resist
  9. no, the ones on the roof are NOT Eagle Eye II's, it's just the covers, the lights themselves are like 30w craphole 6" sealed beam lights I stole off my dad's '64 Ford plow truck, and one of 'em's burned out. but when they both worked, they were pretty sweet. the ones under the bumper are Hella optilux's (I think 2020's...), they're combination Fog/Driving lights, 2 ~50w bulbs in each light, with different diffusers, one that's short and wide, one that's long and narrow. I wired 'em with individual switches so I can turn 'em both on at the same time, I had 'em mounted with self-drilling/-tapping screws into the bumper....worked find 'til I ripped 'em out. though it wasn't a bad idea, the screws failed before the light had any damage. I bet if you mount them over the bumper, or just don't get into stuff that would hit them hard, they'd be fine that way.
  10. well, the cv's are pressed in there. when I had an inner DOJ fail while we were camping, and had to pound the CV apart to get home without vibration, that when functioning properly, they're hard to get apart. but run some muddy/sandy water through there, they come apart real easy! it's probably just different degrees of failure, one came apart pretty easy, the other isn't. and the time I had to break one apart at our campsite, the retaining ring broke off before anything else.
  11. you are adjusting your mileage for the bigger tires aren't you??? mines almost exactly 20% short...that would explain part of it.
  12. 20....22 on a good, cool, dry day I'm hard on 'er
  13. that is sad...but an old picture...any progress on the new creation?
  14. could be, I'd say check it out, pull off the plastic moulding around the ebrake handle, and see if you can figure it out. otherwise you might just want to find the origional relay/switch and run a new wire straight from the battery to the + side of the relay, it'll always be on, but just make sure you flip the switch off when you're not using them
  15. McBrat's got a piece welded onto the top of his, not much, but makes a 'T' cross-section, I bet that makes it quite a bit stronger!
  16. another vote for valve cover gaskets and bolt grommets...no need to pull the motor for these, just get yourself a 10 mm ratchet wrench, genuine subaru gaskets, and make sure you don't overtighten 'em, like me
  17. no, don't use elctrical tape, that'll just create a sticky mess. just get yourself a tube of RTV silicone sealant, and put a small coating on any seam, or connector that you don't want water on. namely your ignition system.
  18. the CAI I'm referring to is the tubing that's actually inside the fender. not all cars had it, but I know some did. and if you're running without the plastic inner fender (which you pretty much have to with cut fenders...), then all the water/mud sprays right up off your tire, into your airbox. my '85 carbed wagon hated deep water, until I took the little tube off the airbox that ran over to the hole in the fender. it still ran crappy, but that's cause the water would short out my disty and coil! but if you do decide to move your intake, just repositioining the stock airbox up into the spare tire well works very well. I'll probably do that, but with a cone filter....
  19. yep...place to store the flat, there's a different mounting bracket/bolt that woks with it. 2 of my wagons came with it. still in it's little plastic bags, here's the instructions on it... How to store Flat Tire 1. Screw the shaft into the floor through the slit in the mat covering the trunk floor (or luggage space floor). Rotate the shaft in a clockwise direction by spanner until it is tight. (Make sure that the mat is not caught.) 2. Pass the shaft through any one of the lug holes in the wheel and tighten the wheel down with the holder until it is fully secure.
  20. I beg to differ...as long as you do have the inner fender still in place, and the stock 'CAI' (little plastic tube that sucks air from the front of the fender up to the airbox) removed. you'll do ok, I'd worry about electrical connections first, THEN snorkel, then tranny/diff breathers....
  21. I too am a veteran of the swimming stock subie. I went through swamps, and all sorts of gnarly stuff, but my '85 had some vulnerable elctrical connections, and didn't like it too deep. I always found that the thing would cough and loose power before loosing traction. here's shortly after it happened: and the next day: beleive it or not....it's a black car
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