Numbchux

well, the cv's are pressed in there. when I had an inner DOJ fail while we were camping, and had to pound the CV apart to get home without vibration, that when functioning properly, they're hard to get apart. but run some muddy/sandy water through there, they come apart real easy! it's probably just different degrees of failure, one came apart pretty easy, the other isn't. and the time I had to break one apart at our campsite, the retaining ring broke off before anything else.

I paid $150 to my door for 5, 4 with tires....

you are adjusting your mileage for the bigger tires aren't you??? mines almost exactly 20% short...that would explain part of it.

20....22 on a good, cool, dry day I'm hard on 'er

that is sad...but an old picture...any progress on the new creation?

could be, I'd say check it out, pull off the plastic moulding around the ebrake handle, and see if you can figure it out. otherwise you might just want to find the origional relay/switch and run a new wire straight from the battery to the + side of the relay, it'll always be on, but just make sure you flip the switch off when you're not using them

McBrat's got a piece welded onto the top of his, not much, but makes a 'T' cross-section, I bet that makes it quite a bit stronger!

another vote for valve cover gaskets and bolt grommets...no need to pull the motor for these, just get yourself a 10 mm ratchet wrench, genuine subaru gaskets, and make sure you don't overtighten 'em, like me

no, don't use elctrical tape, that'll just create a sticky mess. just get yourself a tube of RTV silicone sealant, and put a small coating on any seam, or connector that you don't want water on. namely your ignition system.

the CAI I'm referring to is the tubing that's actually inside the fender. not all cars had it, but I know some did. and if you're running without the plastic inner fender (which you pretty much have to with cut fenders...), then all the water/mud sprays right up off your tire, into your airbox. my '85 carbed wagon hated deep water, until I took the little tube off the airbox that ran over to the hole in the fender. it still ran crappy, but that's cause the water would short out my disty and coil! but if you do decide to move your intake, just repositioining the stock airbox up into the spare tire well works very well. I'll probably do that, but with a cone filter....

yep...place to store the flat, there's a different mounting bracket/bolt that woks with it. 2 of my wagons came with it. still in it's little plastic bags, here's the instructions on it... How to store Flat Tire 1. Screw the shaft into the floor through the slit in the mat covering the trunk floor (or luggage space floor). Rotate the shaft in a clockwise direction by spanner until it is tight. (Make sure that the mat is not caught.) 2. Pass the shaft through any one of the lug holes in the wheel and tighten the wheel down with the holder until it is fully secure.

check, and then some!

I beg to differ...as long as you do have the inner fender still in place, and the stock 'CAI' (little plastic tube that sucks air from the front of the fender up to the airbox) removed. you'll do ok, I'd worry about electrical connections first, THEN snorkel, then tranny/diff breathers....

I too am a veteran of the swimming stock subie. I went through swamps, and all sorts of gnarly stuff, but my '85 had some vulnerable elctrical connections, and didn't like it too deep. I always found that the thing would cough and loose power before loosing traction. here's shortly after it happened: and the next day: beleive it or not....it's a black car

ummm..4.11 is lower than 3.x, you're other forward gears might be higher, but it's not your final ratio...

Who's who??? sounds like you're referring to the pic of the year post! who's who was just introducing who owns/drives what....and it's not quite late enough in the year for the 'pic of the year' competition..... Edit: Oh ok, I'll bite....I edited instead of replying because my poor computer can't load all the pictures in the topic preview thing! anyway: there'll be video of this whole ordeal before too long look at the antennas! that's an action shot! (not to mention my face :cool: ) sorry about the lack of res on this one, it's a screenshot out of a vid:

no, the guys in the MNSubaru club don't appreciate easy to work on. most of them pay to have someone else install their aftermarket wheels! they just want to see turbos, FMICs, and CAIs. they don't really understand the concept of strapping my spare tire to my roof, "what, you just rest it on the paint? doesn't it scratch it?", "maybe, I don't care, noone can see the roof anyway!"

yea, the smaller, the more restrictive. I wouldn't go any smaller than the stock intake pipe, maybe even a bit bigger since it's such a long distance. And if you're that concerned about engine heat, put some spacers under the hood hinges, so that some air can flow through that area. Think cowl induction

haha, I got a spare aswell, but it's in the Twin Cities, and I don't have a way to get it here (didn't have room last trip, don't want to drive my ghetto-repaired wagon that far...), so I need a better ghetto-repair.

that's the way the behave on pavement, cause you're not supposed to drive it in 4WD on pavement! it is true 4WD, not AWD, so when engaged, the front and rear diffs have to spin at the same speed, when going around a corner, the rear end takes a shorter cut than the front, and therefore spins a touch slower. don't worry about it, unless you plan on driving it in 4 on pavement alot.

here's a pic of QMan's hatch with his snorkel, looks like PVC. I'm with archemitis on the intake, get a cone filter way up into the spare tire well, it might get wet, but you're not going to suck any quantity of water. and PROTECT YOUR ELECTRONICS, I got a tube of RTV silicone sealer and will be going over my vital electronic connections, to keep them from shorting.

there isn't enough room to get anything in there, it's the one that's tightest up against the framerail, I had to buy a ratchet wrench to get it off (well, a box wrench would've worked, but there's only enough room for about 1/8 turn...I'm just not patient enough) since I can have extra parts here in a couple weeks, I'll go ghetto, and fix it if I have to. so I got some degreaser to clean it, some RTV, some JBWeld, and a ratchet strap, I'm gonna JBWeld the bolt into the hole, rtv the gasket, and use the strap to hold pressure on the whole thing while it dries... my question is, do I have to drain the oil...AGAIN...to do this? I assume there's oil standing in around the cam, so I'll need to drain it, to keep it clean while stuff dries....I just changed it!

neither do generic GL's it helps that I don't have quite enough fender clearance in the front, so if I turn too hard, they rub a little...

+1....use PVC!

I want to hear more about this beast! is it just mid-engined? or is does it also have the stock engine...let's hear about it! also, I think your site is down...I haven't been able to get on it the last coule times I've tried.