Numbchux

check the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) section here in the offroad forum for information in the future, but since I know them off the top of my head... http://www.ozified.com (heard a rumor that he's not making kits anymore...) http://www.alliedarmament.com (it may not be listed there, but they can make all sorts of stuff, big personal recommendation here!) http://www.sjrlift.com (again, maybe not listed, but he's pretty versatile, I'm getting a part from him to make my lift bigger/better!) and look for mudrat79 here on the boards, mixed opinions amongst fellow members about his business rep, but he definately does great work!!

not all d/r trannies are like that. I'm not sure of the exact cutoff, but my '88 had it on the tranny, and my '85 had it on the clutch pedal. I swapped 'em (the '85 had way fewer miles), and it works fine, just didn't plug it in. yea, my CEL is on, but all my cars have the CEL on. I'd be worried if it turned off! I'm going to try to attach the two wires, maybe that will get it to shut up.

that sounds like a blast, I love alaska, and will be going back a number of times. unfortunately, I don't know how I'd be able to pull if off while I'm still in college. however, once I'm out, I'd love to do it!

agreed, black wheels are sooooo hot!!

looks awesome guys!!!

hmmm...this is a good idea, unfortunately they're mounted on my roof rack, pretty solid mount, but nothing above to mount the top to. and they'll be pretty much off-road only lights, so there'll be lots of vibration to worry about. maybe lower wattage might make them last longer?? we'll see this weekend!

agreed!!

All EA82 Dl's came with dual headlights

gound clearance is awesome, I know I've got better than virtually any vehicle out there. but suspension travel and flex is where it's at. those few inches of clearance aren't anything to the suspension travel associated with solid axles. our BIG advantage, is the point in the middle where the t-case is on those trucks, we have virtually nothing hanging below the unibody there, I have almost 20" of clearance at the "high-center" point.

I really want to put in 4-point harnesses in my wagon. I get thrown around on the trail alot. and my gf is all for it! I'll probably buy some and see if I can make it work.

I have a pair of Hella 7" round lights in big ol' plastic cases for roof-mount. I got them from my uncle, and they're not wired at all. They're H4's with lo/high beams... 2 Q's...1. anyone know the wiring for them? I've got three contacts, and I'm not sure which is high, low, or ground. I could just try 'em, but I'd like to make sure I get it right. 2. would it be ok to run both filaments at the same time? I've got combo driving/fog lights on the front that I run both on at the same time, but they're individual bulbs, these are 2 filaments in the same bulb....would the heat be too much?

GravelRX made a removable light bar...here's a couple pics from his photo gallery. do a search for posts by him, I know he's posted exactly how he did it.

oops....I completely misread your post....yea...what shawn said

HI EARL!!!!! sorry, I just couldn't resist

no, the ones on the roof are NOT Eagle Eye II's, it's just the covers, the lights themselves are like 30w craphole 6" sealed beam lights I stole off my dad's '64 Ford plow truck, and one of 'em's burned out. but when they both worked, they were pretty sweet. the ones under the bumper are Hella optilux's (I think 2020's...), they're combination Fog/Driving lights, 2 ~50w bulbs in each light, with different diffusers, one that's short and wide, one that's long and narrow. I wired 'em with individual switches so I can turn 'em both on at the same time, I had 'em mounted with self-drilling/-tapping screws into the bumper....worked find 'til I ripped 'em out. though it wasn't a bad idea, the screws failed before the light had any damage. I bet if you mount them over the bumper, or just don't get into stuff that would hit them hard, they'd be fine that way.

well, the cv's are pressed in there. when I had an inner DOJ fail while we were camping, and had to pound the CV apart to get home without vibration, that when functioning properly, they're hard to get apart. but run some muddy/sandy water through there, they come apart real easy! it's probably just different degrees of failure, one came apart pretty easy, the other isn't. and the time I had to break one apart at our campsite, the retaining ring broke off before anything else.

I paid $150 to my door for 5, 4 with tires....

you are adjusting your mileage for the bigger tires aren't you??? mines almost exactly 20% short...that would explain part of it.

20....22 on a good, cool, dry day I'm hard on 'er

that is sad...but an old picture...any progress on the new creation?

could be, I'd say check it out, pull off the plastic moulding around the ebrake handle, and see if you can figure it out. otherwise you might just want to find the origional relay/switch and run a new wire straight from the battery to the + side of the relay, it'll always be on, but just make sure you flip the switch off when you're not using them

McBrat's got a piece welded onto the top of his, not much, but makes a 'T' cross-section, I bet that makes it quite a bit stronger!

another vote for valve cover gaskets and bolt grommets...no need to pull the motor for these, just get yourself a 10 mm ratchet wrench, genuine subaru gaskets, and make sure you don't overtighten 'em, like me

no, don't use elctrical tape, that'll just create a sticky mess. just get yourself a tube of RTV silicone sealant, and put a small coating on any seam, or connector that you don't want water on. namely your ignition system.

the CAI I'm referring to is the tubing that's actually inside the fender. not all cars had it, but I know some did. and if you're running without the plastic inner fender (which you pretty much have to with cut fenders...), then all the water/mud sprays right up off your tire, into your airbox. my '85 carbed wagon hated deep water, until I took the little tube off the airbox that ran over to the hole in the fender. it still ran crappy, but that's cause the water would short out my disty and coil! but if you do decide to move your intake, just repositioining the stock airbox up into the spare tire well works very well. I'll probably do that, but with a cone filter....