Numbchux

I would think this is the way to do it...since they have to come out anyway

I wouldn't worry about wheel size, you could run 20's if you want, as long as the outside diameter of your TIRES isn't over 28/29"...though I wouldn't recomend that as that wouldn't get you very tall sidewalls, the point is that I wouldn't worry about it. if you'd like to run 16 or 17" 6-lug wheels, go for it, but I wouldn't recommend getting tires that are taller than 28"...especially on a carbed motor, until you get a weber, or SPFI (if you're that brave).

that's what it sounds like...

Those look great. if you can find them for cheap. Singletrack is right though, the Liberator A/T's from WalMart are an unmatched value, if you've got a budget build, these ARE the tires for you!

only way to change your final drive ratio, is to use an external transfer case so you can use an external front diff (read: BIG work!)

I didn't do any cutting to fit my 28's, but quite a bit of banging, and still some rubbing...MorganM's got 29's on an old 3" BYB kit, but he's got a ton of trimming. just looking at the link for those toyo's...they don't make those in anything under 33's...and they're mud-terrains, is there much mud there? I thought it was more rocky, might be better off with A/T's

Sounds like you've got the right idea, my vote is for drilling out to a 6-lug pattern, not too much more expensive, but looks WAYYYYY better, 6-lub wheels drilled to 4-lug just looks half-@$$ed...just my opinion Rarely seen a lifted sedan...should be cool! tires...look for some cheap all-terrains, or all-seasons. I have all-seasons, just cause that's what fell into my lap, and they work great! they cake with mud a bit easier than I want, but are pretty solid on most any terrain, and quite on-road. keep us up-to-date!

That's what I thought too? are you doing it right??? and I've always just used the nut to pull it down through the control arm too...don't know what's up here

I did it...worked fine, swapped linkage too and wired the linkage switch into the harness where the other plug was, and sure enough, all indicators work now, and backup lights...don't know what the fourth one was, but the wires are just hanging there, and as far as I can tell, nothing was affected!

I'll be up for a 2" in a month or so...I'll be in touch!! Thanks!!!!!!

Check the FAQ (frequently asked questions) at the top of this page (or this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24980) since you're referring to it as a leone, I assume you're not in the US, in which case a premade lift will be a bit harder to get ahold of, if you're in aus you can get a Backyard Boys one, other than that, you're paying overseas shipping, or building it yourself

I run just the electric fan (I took off the machanical...it robs horsepower and would be a problem in water) and I don't have any problems. I had the electric fan switched to a little toggle switch (with relay!) on the dash, then that melted my little fuse holder, so i wired it right to the ignition coil. ANyway, the point is, I turn my fan off after about 30 mph, and it cools just fine, even with a full load (spare engine block + college load). if you're worried about it, you could wire the fan to be always on, cut the two wires, lengthen them, touch them to the battery to see which way sucks the air through, then put your positive on the + side of the ignition coil, and the negative to a ground somewhere, and poof! the fan will stay on with the ignition.

sweet! how tall is that? I'm tight for cash now, but just applied for a couple jobs and will be settling down for school so this is pretty good timing!

I have the high lift kit (straight 4") and had to adjust the linkage a bit (read: loosen a nut, then tighten it again) and beat fenders (depends on tire size), and that was it!

agreed, sounds like something outside of the CV broke, it almost sounds like the axle stub broke!

Well, if nobody knows we'll know soon, it's bolted up (did the 'tighten the pressure plate through the starter hole' trick, since the alignment tool they gave me was wrong), I'll be messing with the wiring/linkage tomorrow and hopefully try 'er out tomorrow night, or friday morning!

long version: I'm doing a clutch replacement job on my '88 high-mileage (225k) wagon, and just recently stripped a low-mileage (140k) but rusted out '85 wagon. both EA82's. well, the '88's synchros aren't very good, and the '85's are, so I thought I'd swap the trannies, I lowered the one out, and rolled it out next to the "new" one, and found some differences. I know it'll bolt up, it's exactly the same in that aspect, but there are a couple electrical connections that the '85 doesn't have. short version: tranny swap....'85 EA82 D/R 5-speed into '88, same setup....different electrical stuff. passenger side: right next to 4WD linkage, 2-wire connection....I assume for the lo-range indicator, as the '85 had a little switch on the handle that the '88 doesn't driver side: next to the regular 5-speed linkage, another 2-wire connection, this one's a mystery to me I don't think it's anything to worry about, but it's gotta do something! am I gonna regret it if I just don't do anything with those 2 plugs? I have the 4WD linkage from the '85, if I swap it over and splice the switch into the plug on the '88 wiring harness, will my lo range indicator work?

I'm sorry....:-p agreed, however, it IS gorgeous!!!

AA kit's pretty basic...but yea, you gotta worry about bolts, I stripped out one in the origional install, and another today while doing a clutch... if you're worried about rust, just use lots of wd-40, and if the bolt starts to bind, reverse the ratchet to loosen it up, and work in the wd-40...it should work well.

unimog's are incredible, and much of that is because of the planetary reduction gears at the hubs, wouldn't that be awesome?! however, I really like the fact that my entire drivetrain is tucked mostly up in the unibody, t-casing is way down the line for me. but I'd still like better gearing. The Jeep guys would laugh at a regular ol' stock wrangler, and he's still got a much nicer crawl ration than I I'll be in the market for a rebuilt/reworked tranny before too long (my synchros are not good) and was considering getting a front LSD from mudrat, but if someone finds a way to drop the gearing, I'd much prefer that!

These lifts *mostly* retain stock suspension geometry, enough to make for a very carlike ride...the only thing keeping me from 3 digits, is lack of power, I spend alot of time driving back and forth from my parents place in Minneapolis, to my college home in Duluth (about 3 hours), speed limit's 70, and let's just say I'm not the slowest one on the road the only thing that makes it scary, is my disconected sway bar, and bad shocks, it kinda wanders, and bounces, but that's not a result of the lift.

I torched my clutch last week offroading with a wrangler...I need lower gears too! If you find a way to do this, and I can afford it, I'm in...

definately DO IT!! and it would need more pink to copy austin...:-p

I don't see what you people are talking about....I've gone through a bunch on the front, but the axle angles on the front are no different than the BYB...I've only actually destroyed one, and dismantled another (which I'm still using, btw), and I blame that, mostly, on the fact that I had the blocks adjusted up almost another entire inch...it's a 5" lift that eat's rear DOJ's, or a pretty sweet 4" kit!

you find it (here!), I'll buy it..well, I would have when I bought this one, now I don't have any money. I do like them better than the wagon, but I've sort of become attached to these, and rust-free subarus at all are hard to come by here, I can't really be picky about my $150 subarus!