Numbchux

yep...place to store the flat, there's a different mounting bracket/bolt that woks with it. 2 of my wagons came with it. still in it's little plastic bags, here's the instructions on it... How to store Flat Tire 1. Screw the shaft into the floor through the slit in the mat covering the trunk floor (or luggage space floor). Rotate the shaft in a clockwise direction by spanner until it is tight. (Make sure that the mat is not caught.) 2. Pass the shaft through any one of the lug holes in the wheel and tighten the wheel down with the holder until it is fully secure.

check, and then some!

I beg to differ...as long as you do have the inner fender still in place, and the stock 'CAI' (little plastic tube that sucks air from the front of the fender up to the airbox) removed. you'll do ok, I'd worry about electrical connections first, THEN snorkel, then tranny/diff breathers....

I too am a veteran of the swimming stock subie. I went through swamps, and all sorts of gnarly stuff, but my '85 had some vulnerable elctrical connections, and didn't like it too deep. I always found that the thing would cough and loose power before loosing traction. here's shortly after it happened: and the next day: beleive it or not....it's a black car

ummm..4.11 is lower than 3.x, you're other forward gears might be higher, but it's not your final ratio...

Who's who??? sounds like you're referring to the pic of the year post! who's who was just introducing who owns/drives what....and it's not quite late enough in the year for the 'pic of the year' competition..... Edit: Oh ok, I'll bite....I edited instead of replying because my poor computer can't load all the pictures in the topic preview thing! anyway: there'll be video of this whole ordeal before too long look at the antennas! that's an action shot! (not to mention my face :cool: ) sorry about the lack of res on this one, it's a screenshot out of a vid:

no, the guys in the MNSubaru club don't appreciate easy to work on. most of them pay to have someone else install their aftermarket wheels! they just want to see turbos, FMICs, and CAIs. they don't really understand the concept of strapping my spare tire to my roof, "what, you just rest it on the paint? doesn't it scratch it?", "maybe, I don't care, noone can see the roof anyway!"

yea, the smaller, the more restrictive. I wouldn't go any smaller than the stock intake pipe, maybe even a bit bigger since it's such a long distance. And if you're that concerned about engine heat, put some spacers under the hood hinges, so that some air can flow through that area. Think cowl induction

haha, I got a spare aswell, but it's in the Twin Cities, and I don't have a way to get it here (didn't have room last trip, don't want to drive my ghetto-repaired wagon that far...), so I need a better ghetto-repair.

that's the way the behave on pavement, cause you're not supposed to drive it in 4WD on pavement! it is true 4WD, not AWD, so when engaged, the front and rear diffs have to spin at the same speed, when going around a corner, the rear end takes a shorter cut than the front, and therefore spins a touch slower. don't worry about it, unless you plan on driving it in 4 on pavement alot.

here's a pic of QMan's hatch with his snorkel, looks like PVC. I'm with archemitis on the intake, get a cone filter way up into the spare tire well, it might get wet, but you're not going to suck any quantity of water. and PROTECT YOUR ELECTRONICS, I got a tube of RTV silicone sealer and will be going over my vital electronic connections, to keep them from shorting.

there isn't enough room to get anything in there, it's the one that's tightest up against the framerail, I had to buy a ratchet wrench to get it off (well, a box wrench would've worked, but there's only enough room for about 1/8 turn...I'm just not patient enough) since I can have extra parts here in a couple weeks, I'll go ghetto, and fix it if I have to. so I got some degreaser to clean it, some RTV, some JBWeld, and a ratchet strap, I'm gonna JBWeld the bolt into the hole, rtv the gasket, and use the strap to hold pressure on the whole thing while it dries... my question is, do I have to drain the oil...AGAIN...to do this? I assume there's oil standing in around the cam, so I'll need to drain it, to keep it clean while stuff dries....I just changed it!

neither do generic GL's it helps that I don't have quite enough fender clearance in the front, so if I turn too hard, they rub a little...

+1....use PVC!

I want to hear more about this beast! is it just mid-engined? or is does it also have the stock engine...let's hear about it! also, I think your site is down...I haven't been able to get on it the last coule times I've tried.

don't think I haven't thought about it!

Jay, I think I remember a post by corky about the UltimateRX's new owner getting it running...don't quote me on it, but my mind is telling me it happened... will...looks awesome! I admire your persistance on making one of the coolest/fastest subarus I know, and sticking with the EA82 motor! more power to you!!!

That's why I say that drilling and tapping is out of the question, for now, I had to go buy a set of ratchet wrenches just to get the bolts off. and since I'm going EJ22 next summer, I'm totally up for crappy repairs. I think I'll try the RTV trick. Thanks! do you think that will work for the bolt seal too? the threads for that bolt are GONE, so the bolt will just fall out otherwise.

so I finally fixed my crazy oil leak by replacing the valve cover gaskets (the old ones where so dried and cracked, they just broke, no flexibilty) with new, OEM ones, along with the rubber seals around the bolts...anyway, while I was torqueing down the passenger side, one of the bolt-holes stripped out. and of course, when something attached to the motor strips, it's never the bolt....nooooo, it's got to be the hole in the head! :banghead: I've got a piece of wire wrapped around a few other bolts nearby keeping pressure on it now, and it only leaks a bit (less than it did before) but it's a really half@$$ed fix. is there an easy way to fix this? I don't want to drill and tap, and the block get's too hot for JBWeld (I've tried it....). I can have my mom bring up a head from my spare block at their place in a couple weeks, but I'm kinda worried about it for now... also, if I replace the head, I should probably replace both head gaskets too shouldn't I? which means changing the oil again! grrrr!!!!

HAHA, that isn't articulation, that back wheel is so far up the suspension isn't even compressed anymore! I took a couple of my car this morning (after swaybar removal) but it looks like crap cause there's crap on my lense (who'd a thunk?) I took it up to Best Buy (yay service plan) and I should have it back before long. anyway, here was my attempt:

I don't! Well, if there was one that was like the RX Dual-Range FT4WD box, with the same lo range ratio as the PT4WD D/R box, and locking center, I'd LOVE that! I hate 2WD, but like having true lo range 4wd more for offroad. If I had a car that I was only running on-road, I'd want AWD or FT4WD. a PT4WD tranny with the 3.7 ratio will probalby yeild the best mileage. though you still have to turn the rear diff and driveshaft, so it won't be as good as just FWD.

holy crap!!! nice, can't wait until the lift is done! got any more pics, like of the front? sounds awesome, even though it's not done

They're 215-75-r15's come out to almost 28" tall, and that picture is on level ground, no articulation... problem with lower gears, is there (apparently, I've never torn one apart) isn't any extra room in the tranny for larger gears...

I got mine @ Napa, again...no problem

I ran with just a y-pipe and the thrush , and it sounded very nice! until the y fell off the motor on one side... morgan: I see!!