Numbchux

OK, that makes sense. I don't think the tranny is that much of a weak link.....

we've discussed this before: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53904 I beleive the general consensus is, it's been done, theoretically mudrat can make a lift, but as a result of recent events, he can't offer anything there, and they're difficult to make a custom lift for. I say you should do it!!!

D/R stands for dual range.....hi range and lo range if you're gonna wheel a subie, wheel a DR subie!!

why? just use the stock box in 4WD, then you have 2 lo ranges..... I'm thinking a transverse FWD car, with 2 of the long-side CV axles....

:banana: good work man

sweet, that's what we wanted to hear!!

well, my dad's driving my donor car I mentioned to him when he was going to the junkyard yesterday that I wanted some cruise parts, so he found an early legacy, and started pulling stuff. and then we looked at the chiltons wiring diagram. I think this'll be EASY!!

A little experiment for my dad and I. found a legacy in the junkard with cruise, bunch of switches, the lever on the steering wheel, and a couple vacuum things in the engine bay. we looked in the car, and there appears to be all the plugs in the wiring harness already there.... we looked in the chiltons wiring diagram, and it looks like we've got everything, except the speed sensor. where is it, and would a non-cruise '92 legacy have it? oh yea, '92 legacy, EJ22, 4EAT, FWD

:lol::grin::lol::lol: great pics!!

or an FMIC, if you swing that way

I can't offer all the answers you're looking for, but I can offer this: I doubt you'll notice much difference mileage-wise between the 3.9 final drive and 3.7...the 3.7 will be turning fewer rpm's, but fewer rpms means more load....this question has been discussed, and the agreement was, that with an EA82 motor, the differences are going to be slim, with stock tires anyway (whole different world once us lifted guys get into almost 30" tires) part-time D/R boxes are all 3.9. RX's had full-time D/R with 3.7, but the lo range reduction is quite a bit less than the part time trannies are very complicated, lots of delicate adjustments to insure that all the gears mesh just right. personally, I won't open up the tranny. IMO, too much risk of majorly screwing something up!

oh yea, definately, in fact, if they are that hard to get off, maybe take a wire brush to them a little and clean 'em up. then put some anti-seize on 'em. and you'll be golden!

that's just not true up here. I've seen many times where jeeps have had all the weight on the front or rear sitting on the diff, and 3 wheels spinning. there's one trail where theres a big log going diagonally across the trail, and the trail is to narrow to turn at it straight. I've pulled a jeep off that everytime I've gone through it, and then stepped right over it with my LSD without trouble.

if the spring pins are out....they're probably 'organically welded' (as my dad would say). Rust, and just plain time will make them alot harder to get off. Heat up the narrow part of the inner cups with a Mapp or propane torch (or acetelyne if you have one), and an air chisel if you have one. otherwise just a big hammer, and beat them off.

yea scrap, the 4WD EA81s have a little 'dent' in them for the rear diff. the 2WD ones don't.

of course you could put bigger blocks on the engine crossmember to fix the camber. but you'd be losing at least an inch of ground clearance! That's what sets us apart from all the solid axle guys, we've got better ground clearance. I'd have to lose 2 inches, since both of my wagons have taller strut blocks then xmember blocks.....I'll take the camber, thank you very much!

oh, sorry.....this was all in my blue '88 wagon I should also add that I've never broken the actual axle. they've all been joint failures. The rear ones where both inner DOJ failure. The fronts have been almost always CVs, but I had a DOJ fail on the freeway in the middle of nowhere northern MN. Had to pound the CV apart in our campground NAPA reman'd rear axle + too much angle + way too much go pedal =

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54641

there's definately a sway bar on my buddies hatch.....and it's a best, different way of attaching, but it's definately there, and limiting flex! oh yea.....those tires look sweet!!!

I've broken a bunch because of getting the iron ore-filled mud in broken boots. a few more to sandy mud the ones from the lift were because of axle angle, but don't stop reading there. The origional AA high-clearance lift had rear adjustability for up to another inch of lift. I had that cranked in, with just the 1" blocks under the mustache bar, and the front adjustables cranked up to match. I had a couple fail on-road due to the angles, adjusted down, haven't broken any for 5k+. the 2 that 'broke' offroading due to angles where both with the same setup as above, I flexed it out on a rock, lifted the right rear tire, kept on the go pedal, and rolled BACKWARDS back onto the ground with that tire spinning FORWARDS.......needless to say the NAPA reman'd axle blew to pieces, and the Junkyard OEM one just fell apart, I reassembled it in the campground and am still using it today. now with your 2" diff shim, I cranked the rear end back up, and am running a healthy 5" of lift, with no axle problems does that answer your question? :-p

I've heard great things.....as far as reman's go.....it's still much much cheaper and easier for me to stop at my local UPullRParts and get one.

check post 26: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=309281&postcount=26 That is on the rear, I have that wagon now, they're still on it, and this thing has the best brake feel of any subaru I've ever owned!

they're just A/T's look like BFG's......what's wrong with those? looks like fun! I remember wheeling my wagon when it was stock.....hehehe

I know.....it's just not the same without the blue beast

I'm going to need more than just one....but I may have a local guy do it for me. hmmm....I really want to make this work! There has to be a way...