Numbchux

My GL has it, it's very nice, I love showing it off to my friends with newer "nicer" cars, and making fun of the fact that they don't have it! -Chux

It's been said but I'll say it again, watch out for rust, and not just on the body, get down on the ground and look underneath the car and in the wheel-wells, especially in structural places. In most cases, the rust will render the car unusable before any serious mechanical problems. DON'T get an auto, They're only a 3-speed which means freeway speeds are very high rpm (60 mph = almost 4k) which means 3 things: 1. tranny goes out faster (mine went at ~120k) B. mileage is very bad by comparison and 3. it's quite a bit harder on the motor. Not to mention that 5-speeds are FAR more fun !!! I would also recommend getting a fuel-injected one, I can't say that I have a very good comparison, but both mine have about the same problems and the loyale has TONS more low end torque. just my $.02 -Chux

got mine aswell. good work, I'm going to wait until I finish the swap before I put any of them on. -Chux

I have a timing light, and I've checked the timing, it's right at 8 degrees, advancing it would be to turn it to 10 right? or am I bassackwards? -Chux

I'm sending cash tomorrow, for: 2 USMB logo decal -> $8 1 8" 4WD decal -> $4 1 "roll me over" decal in "Castel TUlt" text -> $8 all in white I'll send this info w/money aswell. Thanks -Chux Any word on the price of the tread decal, that may be a part of next summer's project, maybe

call me a moron, but I always get this confused, advance is higher? right? I'm having the same problem, my solution is to ditch the motor, poor thing, I'll hang on to it for parts, but the loyale SPFI goes so much better. -Chux

http://members.cardomain.com/numbchuxsoad

I'd have to say my realistic, everyday dream subie would be a more powerful version of my GL, if it weren't so rusty. So my vote would be an EA82 turbowagon, with the accord spring mod, some 14" pugs, some slightly larger All-Terrain tires. But the cool little "luxury" (great for 1985) items are awesome, Hill-holder (which I just realized mine had and adjusted it so it would work again, never occured to me that it might have it), maplights, power locks/windows/mirrors, fold flat rear seats, etc. Add Cruise Control, and I'm in love! Now, in a perfect world, one without budgets or schedules, an SVX, with a 5 speed swapped in it, and some performance improvements, and WOW, that's what I call a dream car. -Chux

WAY cool!! Could use some exterior work (paint etc.), when you finish with mechanical work. IF you finish with mechanical work!!!

Ok, you've all confirmed what I already suspected, this would be a better idea to take my time. I guess I'll do it that way. As for the motor, after looking at it, I think the easiest way to swap Trannies is to pull the motors, and take the tranny out through the hood. Am I wrong? I don't really have the technology to get the car up high enough to get it out through the bottom. The GL will have to roll, but that's about it, I will probably hang on to it for a parts car, but I won't have it run. But I will need to get it out of the garage and pushed back into the woods after the swap. -Chux

ditto! Thanks -Chux PS, JOIN MNSUBARU.COM!!!

OK, first a little background info. As some of you know I inquired earlier about the difficulty of swapping the 5-speed D/R drivetrain, under the rust-free (almost) SPFI body of the loyale. And I decided to do it (DUH). I have a friend whos dad works at a salvage place and they have a VERY large garage, with a commercial toolset etc. The problem is we can only use it when they're not open (7am-6pm weekdays). The question is if I go monster garage style, and gather some of my most mechanically inclined friends together and go late into the night and back early in the morning to work all day both days starting Friday evening. Can I have it done by Sunday night? This means BOTH cars cleared out and back to my house (only about 8-10 miles away). While I have the engine pulled I would like to put quite a bit of work into the good motor to make it run better. New Belts, hoses, gaskets etc. are a must, clean stuff out, replace the EGR valve (check engine light's been on for years). SO, if I pull the motor a week or so early at my house, will there be enough left of the car to tow it over to the garage? Does the tranny HAVE to come out too, or is there enough holding it in that I wouldn't have to mess with it until we get to the real tools? The other option would be to do it in my own three car garage w/cracked floor, a decent tool set (would have to borrow an engine hoist and a couple pairs of jackstands) and VERY limited space, but have 2-3 whole weeks to mess around with it. ONE more question, if we do decide to do it, should I try to do the accord spring mod to the back and disc brake conversion while we have things torn apart, or will we be too strapped for time? these could easily be done in an afternoon back home, I'd just rather not tear things apart twice. I think that's the bulk of the info -Chux PS MorganM, you will be one of those mechanically inclined friends, and Archemitis too if he wants!

I'm still only available the 21-22 (if I don't do the drivetrain swap that weekend)

I use the big a.. open-end wrench

I'd just like to say, this is all great information. You'll be fine doing it all yourself. I just have a couple tricks, a special tool isn't needed to wind the caliper back in, just a 1" or larger box wrench if you have one (if you don't you might as well just buy the right part), and for taking out the spring pin to disconnect the axle from the transmission, take an extra medium-sized screwdriver, and cut off the end so it's just a flat end and this works great for popping that pin out. Also, axles are easy, I rebuilt a DOJ in probably less than a couple hours of actual work (sure it took a few days waiting for parts, amek sure that you have everything BEFORE you start, it's alot easier). A week or so ago I replaced the axle on the other side in probably less than an hour and a half or so. A little confidence and a Haynes manual should get you through it, and if you run into something weird give it a few hours posted on here and you'll probably get a good answer from someone who's run into the same problem! Good luck! and may you learn alot! -Chux

The GL didn't have an A/C belt when I bought it (~2k miles ago) tried to put it on yesterday, found the tensioner was seized, so, still no belt, still no problems. -Chux HA!! just noticed that 3 of the 4 replies are from good ol' MN. hmmm...... kinda makes ya think

Well, I bought a piece of pipe to slip over the two ends and reconnect the y-pipe to the muffler. Nothin, It's not making it to the end of the y-pipe. That will definately need to be delt with. Is there a way around the O2 Sensor? I may try to attach my dad's old EA81 Y-pipe that's in the rafters of the garage, but it doesn't have a place for the sensor. I'll give it a shot in the morning.

I don't know what I think, on one hand he butchered a perfectly good car, but on the other, I can see myself doing that. COOL!!!

Well, I was at my local Holiday Stationstore this morning getting some cool caffeine for my afternoon of replacing the front struts on my dad's caravan when I decided to try some sea foam and some carb cleaner. and it helped alot, it still goes off occasionally but not nearly as bad. I'm heading up to our lake cabin in Alexandria later this week and there's a good junkyard up there so I will be putting a Y-pipe on the list of things to look for. So maybe NEXT week some time morgan, though I think I can handle a Y-pipe swap, thanks anyway for the offer. -Chux

I will try a new Y-pipe, but like I said, the backfiring has only been a problem for about a week now, and the exhaust has been in this condition for almost two months!!

Deal, I'll call you on Monday or Tuesday.

well, the ASV's are very much disabled, and it's better, but still not cured. I think that was just a "treat the symptom" fix, I'd rather get the unburned fuel out of the exhaust than just make less air for it to burn. Anyway, could it be just the extreme lack of backpressure? I knew Carbed motors ran better with backpressure (not like putting a coffee can on your honda) but I didn't think they'd try to blow themselves to bits. Also, my exhaust has been in this condition for more than a month now, and the backfiring was VERY rare until the beginning of this week (about the time I swamped it the last time , hmmmm...). Any other ideas?!? thanks for all the help -Chux

maybe I'll just stick with plugging the hoses. Usually when I use a hammer to try to fix something, more things end up broken -Chux

Aug. 21-22 is the only one there that I can make it to, and I REALLY want to go!

well, I checked the timing this morning, it was just shy of 10* (is there a way to put in a degree sign), so I adjusted it back to almost right on 8* and it seemed the same just for the around the block test drive (except for a bit more low end torque, nice) but this evening I went to a friends house and I think it was better, but maybe it was just a coincidence. I don't know, I'll check out the asv if I have time in the morn. Morgan, I'm pretty busy this weekend, but have nothing next week, when are you available (assuming I don't figure it out by then)? I'll give you a call and we'll see what we can find out.