PoorManzImpreza

I've seen info that the manual ea drive shaft needs to be shortened 2" when an ej tranny is installed in an ea82 vehicle as per what Suberdave just stated, but what about the ej drive shaft? I'm talking about the driveshaft that connects the tranny to the rear diff is "Driveline" a better term? I have the complete running gear of a 2003 JDM wrx, everything from the flywheel back, 4.11 5 speed, all axles, brakes, hubs, driveshaft and rear diff. I've already created hybrid axles for the rear: WRX inboard cup installed on NOS rear ea82 axles so that the WRX rear diff can bolt into the ea chassis. I have xt6 rear hubs and am working on adaptor plates to allow the ej rear backing plate to bolt to the ea swing arm so I can use the GD brakes and have me some rear e-brake. In the front I have 90 legacy front hubs and axles that I'll mate to the WRX tranny. The GD chassis axles might be too long for an ea82 chassis, I'm not sure yet but they are def. longer than the legacy axles. I'd love to use the GD front hubs as they are beefier than the legacy hubs. I will if the GD outboard cv joint can fit the legacy or turbo ea82 axle halfshaft. What I'm unsure of is what to do about the driveshaft I have a 4eat driveshaft and the wrx driveshaft. I'll probably run the wrx drivshaft I'm simply curious to know if it requires any shortening to fit the ea82 chassis..? Sorry if there was any confusion, Kaz

title says it all..will it? won't it? guesses? observations? arbitrary comments? Kaz

can't wait to see pics of this... Kaz

looks like VLSD axles, sometimes the c-clip (what you call the 'ring') stays with the diff..not an issue if you also have the diff... Kaz

thought I'd link this.. http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2314&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=awd+swap+alcan&start=0 Kaz

I do gimme a bit to get my scanner hooked up and I'll scan the parts book page for you, Kaz

clutch lsd part numbers: Part # Description Unit Price 485907001 Disk Friction 1.65 $42.52 485907002 Disk Friction 1.90 $41.28 485937001 Washer $9.03 485937002 Washer $9.03 485937003 Washer $9.03 485877000 Plate Friction $42.52 485897000 Disk Spring $21.92 Subtotal: $175.32 HTH, Kaz

use the ej compressor and have a custom hose and hydraulic shop fabricate some custom lines for you. The ea and ej compressors are very different... Having said that if u DID manage to get an xt compressor which has provisions to run twin 4 rib poly v-belts (the correct term for the multi ribbed belts that people call 'serpentine') you could rig up a mount for it and run it with existing hoses and the right length belt..that is about as 'ghetto/redneck' as I'd go btw..it is a good time to put in some new o-rings in the system and a new dryer...and some r134a compatible oil.. HTH, Kaz

Don't forget that these engines have hydraulic lash adjusters just like the ea82 except they have 16 of them..and IMHO that's what the video posted sounds like coupled with maybe a failed or almost failed timing belt bearing.. If it is HLA noise run it till they pump up good.. nice hold of 3-3.5k rpm for a few minutes or more usually makes it go away if everything else is good in the lubrication system.. HTH, Kaz

According to my parts books the xt spider intake has p/n: 14035AA011 which supercedes to 14035AA160. 14035AA010 was the part number for non spider turbo ea82 but this also supercedes to 14035AA160 No idea about the aa170 part; material change for the xt? Kaz

what year is your rs? I assume since your wanting DOHC that it is not a 96-98 car since they had the EJ25D which was already equiped with factory DOHC, so assuming it is a new gen phase 2 N/A 2.5 SOHC motor it is likely to be an EJ251 motor. Having said that there have been figures floating around on NASIOC stating that these SOHC 251 heads flow VERY well, more than some OE DOHC heads. What I would advise is to do some major ready (on NASIOC http://www.nasioc.com/ and RS25 http://www.rs25.com/ ) and questioning (maybe not so much on NASIOC ). Plan your setup, think about what you want from your car. BMW tuning is mostly N/A tuning while subaru tuning is mostly turbo tuning. One last thing, changing the final drive in an AWD subaru require changing the front AND rear diff ratios. The rear diff is a tiny bit easier than your average BMW, the front diff requires removing and splitting the tranny which is very involved... depending on your year of RS you might also already have 4.111 gears..and considering that suby final drive ratios go like this: 3.545, 3.7, 3.9, 4.11 and 4.44 that ain't bad. Feel free to ask any questions we are a friendly board and love to assist our fellow man (and woman) to become as equally addicted to subarus as we are;) HTH, Kaz

Lucky Lucky Lucky! awesome find Kaz

two screws on the inside one on either end one might be under the rubber door seal. You'll see them with the window down.. HTH Kaz

That looks like a vlsd r160 with a 3.54:1 ratio...the stub issue is actually a year thing not an r160 vs r180 thing.. Early diffs have stubs later diffs don't, I believe the official change over was '94 or at least between '90 and '94.. Again as Numbchux and I have said NO subaru front diff is in anyway compatible with the rear diff. The front diff is MUCH bigger than the back diff, HTH Kaz

The numbers actually mean the ring gear diameter..so pretty easy to measure the ring gear and find out what is r160 and what is r180. 20 mm is a smidge over 3/4" in difference so it is quite onbvious as 'chux has stated. You'll also notice that r180 diffs are actually made by hitachi while most r160s are made by FHI under license from hitachi so the r180 diffs actually have the hitachi logo on the diff housing. Numbchux has stated the facts on front LSD options..Subaru hasn't altered the design of the front diff since '84-'85, only exception being the STi 6 speed, which internally shares no major parts with the 5 speed. HTH, Kaz

my idea is to install fwd legacy/impreza outer cv joints on ea81 shafts..all u need to do is get some new gck fwd legacy outboard joints hammer and or cut off the ea81 outboard joint from the splines and install the legacy outboard joint on the ea81 axle shaft..from my understanding ea81 and fwd manual legacy have 22 spline axle shafts, I've confirmed this on the inboard side just need to get an ea81 axle for final build and outboard spline count..

Hey Tex I've edited the text in my original post with a brief description on its fabrication I'll post more info including dimensions as soon as I can, Kaz

I seem to recall ea81 and ea82 balljoints as being the same..but don't take my word on that.. my big issue with this (ea81) conversion is axles..but I'm working on that..the aussies have allot of info on this as well.. Kaz

page 2: hmm again: what IS Kaz up to?: more: More ball joint goodness: hmm the third: PoorManz Solution?: XT6 rear hub in Legacy H6 rear brake disc: upside down you turn me..: Legacy front hub/knuckle next to XT6 rear hub: and for fun wrx disc on legacy hub: WRX rotor next to L-series rotor: L-series rotor doing inappropriate things to WRX rotor: Phew.. Ok the ball joint sleeve aka PoorManz solution: It is a 1.5" diameter exhaust pipe aprox. 1.5mm thick or 16awg I cut a slit allong the pipes normal seam weld and then notched it for the ball joint pinch bolt. If your ball joint pinch bolt is torqued correctly this is a good solution that weakens nothing in the design of the respective assemblies. I have another bit in the assembly that goes inside the pinch bolt groove that prevents the ea ball joint from sliding out of the sleeve.. This is just an idea I'm throwing out to the community I will say that the best solution is to find some XT6 lower arms, but I do like my solution better than reaming the ea lower arm even though I think there is plenty of meat to do just that in the tapered boss welded to the ea control arm.. Rod end selection: As yall can see from the pics the only tierod end that will allow full factory geometry and alignment capability when using legacy knuckles in an ea 5 bolt conversion is the ea81 tierod..While one could simply run a tap on the ea tierod and use the early legacy/xt6 (same part No btw) rod end I feel the combination of factory parts to be a better solution. Late model impreza/legacy rod ends are the same length as early gen legacy/impreza but the straight rod end can only be used with a late model steering rack (which won't work in an ea crossmember without modification) as I'm told they have less steering angle so there is no need to make room for the wheel at extreme steering angles. Use of standard L-series rod end in legacy knuckle: While it is physically possible to bolt an L-series rod end in a legacy knuckle I don't think it is wise for the following reasons: 1: It alters front suspension geometry by moving the rod end balljoint closer to the knuckle this alters how the car toes while steering with the suspension under compression or expansion, ideally the subaru steering setup isn't exactly the perfect setup so why make it worse? You'll notice whiteline's new gen roll center adjustment kits actually put MORE space between the rod end and the knuckle to try to correct any change in toe while the suspension is under compression/expansion. 2: it squeezes the rod end grease boot more than normal..ok maybe not a big deal 3: It might make the rod end harder to release from the knuckle as more of it is inside the taper than normal comments? Kaz

So there have been many questions concerning what fits what so I've begged my sister to borrow her digital camera so I can take these pictures: Tie rod ends from left to right; Impreza/legacy late model, legacy/impreza early model, L-series(ea82), and finally ea81: Same, sideways: ea81 rod end installed in legacy steering knuckle/hub: L-series rod end held in legacy knuckle: legacy rod end in legacy knuckle: Impreza rod end in legacy knuckle: ea81 rod end in L-series knuckle: ea81 rod end in l-series knuckle up close: Rusty L-series rod end in brand new L-series knuckle: Same up close: legacy/Impreza/XT6 ball joint next to L-series ball joint: Same, side by side: legacy and L-series knuckled ball joint hole: L-series ball joint is too small to 'satisfy' Legacy knuckle (every subaru enthusiast must prove his/her commitment in blood): This is just wrong lol...: Legacy and L-series knuckles like ebony and ivory side by side with balljoints..harmony: Legacy balljoint in L-series Conrol Arm: L-series ball-joint in the correct location: What's that thing in the legacy knuckle?: hmmm: page 1...

4EAT, subaru 4 speed automatic transmissions have seperate diff and transmission cases, the transmision case is lubricated by atf and the diff housing is lubricated by gl-5 hypoid gear oil. FWD and 4WD 5lug hubs are hub centric and both share the same hub centering flange, toyota 5x100 will fit the lug pattern but if I recall the hub center is is smaller on toyotas...not sure.. but the offset is definitely not the same at +45 vs +53 for subaru..(although XT6 is +45 as well so...) HTH Kaz

Be cautious with those GMB Pumps they have sheet metal impelers and I've seen one completely disintegrate. I dunno about ea81 pumps but the ea82 pumps have a caste impeler, they are also far more efficient. On a buds ea82 sedan we put on an genuine Subaru pump and with the engine idling you could see the swirl of the vortex the pump was creating through the radiator cap, my car which has a GMB pump (place holder engine ) no such thing. Just my unscientific observations.. HTH, Kaz

Thought some of yall might like some side by side views of these intakes: and another: I love getting parts from thousands of miles away.. Kaz

The difference between 2wd and 4wd ea82 bodies is as follows: 1: they are missing the sheetmetal associated with the carrier bearing mount on the 4wd driveshaft 2: they are missing the captured nuts that allow the diff carrier "Mustache bar" to mount to the body the mechanical bits are as follows: 1: Transmission 2: shift linkage 3: Drive Shaft 4: Complete rear subframe including; swing arms, hubs, half shafts, rear diff and Mustache bar. This also includes the bent pipe that the inner and outer arms bolt to and swing on as this has the front mount for the diff welded to it. 5: clutch, pressure plate, fork, release bearing and maybe clutch cable (this might not be an issue for you guys but it was for me as 2wd and 4wd 5 speed cars down hear have the clutch forks on different sides of the gearbox) 6 Misc. nuts and bolts and long nuts and bolts that pass through the rear diff hanger (mustache bar) and rear frame of the car to replicate the captured nuts missing on 2wd vehicles.. there is more.. ask me I've done this.. HTH Kaz

There are two FHI part numbers for our rear caliper seal kits: 725191120 and 25191GA550 725191120 was the original caliper kit for SRX and all gen2 rear disc equiped cars it is the smaller piston setup and was carried over to gen3 cars (ea82) 25191ga550 is gen3 only and is for the bigger piston setup. Unfortunately you could have either setup in most rear disc equiped cars..the only thing that seems certain is that FWD turbo cars got the smaller setup and 3 door RX got the bigger setup, all other turbo vehicles it's up in the air.. Maybe if you cross reference the part numbers you might have better luck finding what you need, HTH Kaz