PoorManzImpreza

do u have picts of it mounted on the car? I used to live in Maryland a long time ago..

Want my adaptor plate template? Basically, my idea is to provide the old gen community with a template so they can diy build their own ej to ea backing plate adaptor assembly out of sheet metal and bolts. I have it drawn out using a compass and set squares the old fashioned way, it will orient the ej backing plate and provide method of hub centric placement..You'll need to grind off the abs sensor hole and preferably weld it shut although that isn't really necessary.. It is a two piece assembly one 6mm thick hub centering ring with ea inner diameter and ej outer and a 2mm thick adaptor plate that has ea inner diameter and the upper two ej bolt holes and full ea bolt patterns.. The ej bolt pattern is simply to orient the backing plate on the ea swing arm, it uses the upper two wider ej bolt holes with 10mm bolts cut at 6mm (unless you can find 6mm, minus the bolt head, length bolts) along the shaft diameter and inserted in the holes and then welded to the adaptor plate, one bolt head will require trimming to allow clearance for the bolt head of the ea mount so a socket can fit over the bolt head.. This is different that bratgeebah’s (crossbred performance) design as it is two piece, and orients the ej brake caliper at a more aggressive angle and as such none of the ej holes are sharing any area with the ea hole mounts..I believe this is a simpler design that requires no cnc machining. Anyone with a jig-saw a disc sander and drum sander with metal sandpaper and a means of welding could build this adaptor assembly, fyi 6mm is VERY close to ¼” and 2mm is close to 16awg, but being our cars are metric the sheet metal thickness is in millimeters.. I am also designing a zero weld version that requires a 12mm tap and maybe a bit more drilling but I’m still in the early stages of all this.. Kaz

What you did is what I do but after the mc has been purged of air I then turn on the engine and proceed with bleeding ;-) amazing what a difference the booster makes..my pedal is harder than my buds wrx..I know not exactly apples to apples but you should see the look on his face when he feels my pedal..might have something to do with the single stage booster but don't tell him that... and this is with worn out rear calipers that are leaking slightly Old gen sub drivers are crazy.. :headbang: Kaz

Here's a link to back yard boys in aussieland for a custom header a forum member is working on: http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3644&page=13 looks interesting and also similar to the TWE header.. Exhaust port matching with our engines would equate to a 2" header to mirge pipe..way too big to keep exhaust gas velocity up, and it is exhaust gas velocity that spools a turbo, keeping exhaust gas temperatures high also increases gas velocity and helps spool the turbo..as always everything has a balancing act to follow; too much egt means you are running lean and on the virge of creating a boat anchor, too narrow a header pipe diameter means loss of topend... IMHO the best bet would be keeping the ports split for another 2 to 4 inches or so and during this split narrow the pipe from 2" port diameter down to 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" (1 3/4" would be my choice) then mirging left and right head in a smooth 'Y' junction (keeping this transition long also ensures smooth flow and velocity) to a single 1 3/4" then at 2" or less away from the turbo, flare out to port match the turbine housing inlet...ceramic coating and wrapping the header also promote heat retention and high gas velocity.. The key here is continuing the port split while the pipe cones down from port size to header pipe size this will allow the exhaust gas to maintain velocity as it transitions to the 1 3/4 in pipe smoothly and since we are port matched all the way no turbulance would be generated by abrupt size transitions.. I have a few ideas on how one would keep the siamesed ports split outside the head for that 2 to 4 inches, but haven't tested them out as yet.. just my 2 cents Kaz

65 bucks is expensive? lol crossbred's kit is expensive... Kaz:burnout:

If I can get xt6 hubs sent to Barbados..Anyone can get these..Was I that lucky? Kaz

ok guys and gals, I have a spare RHD L-series (ea82) n/a crossmember and a LHD Turbo L-series crossmember. Now Since I live in RHD country I was wondering if yall think I should scallop a chunk out of the spare n/a xmember or try to convert the LHD xmember to RHD and go for the stock look? For the LHD xmember it seems I'd need to cut out one of the steering rack mounts and move it towards the center a couple inches then cut out the big hole for the pinion shaft..this in essence would make it like an ej xmember which is universal lhd and rhd although not ej body compatible For the n/a xmember just cut out a space for the cross-over/uppipe to pass and weld in a pipe section and I'm done but won't look factory.. What do yall think? Kaz

Countdown to another blown ea82t? but until then:burnout: Kaz

any rear swing arm rubbing on the inside of the tire? Damn looks so sexy... Kaz

*clears throught* PICS!!!! *clears throught* Kaz

power windows get power via its own relay and circuit breaker under the passenger seat..chk for power there 1st.. chk for batt power on the heaviest guage wire a white wire that enters a breaker, white in white out then into a the relay, looking at the relay connector, wire side, unplugged with the lock ontop: _-_ |1 2| |3 4| --- this would be pin 2 in the above diagram. If there is approx 10-12 volts this is good, if not you have a bad circuit breaker or bad wire leading from breaker to relay. with the ignition switch off chk for voltage on the other three pins, there should be none or very close to it. plug relay back in and turn on ignition the relay should click, you should have batt voltage on every pin except pin 3. if this test fails, there is a break in your ignition wires to the relay; a red wire with a yellow stripe. If this test passes you should have power distribulted to your windows.. if you still haven't found an issue now then it's time to take the door panels off and inspect the switches..I normally unplug the motors and put my meter across the terminals and operate the switches it should toggle between +10 to +12 and -10 to -12 volts as u toggle the switches. Replicate the operation for every motor using both the door switch and the master..If this test passes and your windows still ain't workin then you have motor problems. if this test fails then u have switch problems... ok gotta go will continue later..

Nice mod, 'Tex. Just one question, couldn't you have just removed the boss held onto the shifter arm with a roll pin that operates the selector forks inside the gearbox and replaced it with what you had in the second picture, thus requiring no welding for a modern ej shifter? Or did the shifter rod also need shortening? Kaz

how about retapping the hole npt and using a plug? Kaz

The location of the ABS sensor in Legacy backing plates cannot be accessed when mounted to EA trailing arms..you need to fabricate a tone ring to mount on the axle, if your so inclined.. I have seen in xt FSM what looks like a tone ring mounted to the XT6 hub in Section 4-2 wheels & axles page 5, and the xt6 hub clearly has holes contersunk for what could be a tone ring.. Happy Fabricating Kaz

ditto, except I'm using legacy hardware in the back with xt6 hubs..

yeh being an owner of an '89 fat case ea71 hydro lifter I can confirm that it does NOT share the ea81/ea82 crankshaft bolt pattern.. Kaz

man do USDM wrx wheels just look like sex on ea82 wagons or what?? :burnout: Kaz

As far as I know all front wheel drivers share the 200 mm 21 spline clutch disc and associated pressure plate, except for fwd turbo models..In barbados even fwd legacys had this disc but different pressure plate, only the 4wd later MY ea81s got the bigger 225mm clutch, flywheel and pressure plate, but still had 21 plines.. ea71 has a different flywheel/crankshaft bolt pattern and crankshaft hub centering.. It has been mentioned on here (GD I think?) that a fwd ea81 or fwd non turbo ea82 car that needs a stronger clutch could borrow a 4wd ea82 or xt6 flywheel and pressure plate then use the ea81 late model 225mm 4wd 21 spline clutch disc and a nissan 720 hardbody pickup throw out bearing on the stock assemby and have a much stronger clutch..I have not done this myself however, HTH, Kaz

Just for the record guys: 4wd vehicles (4d and ALL SW[including 2wd wagons]) part numbers 25746GA120 to 122 2wd vehicles (4d and 3d) part numbers 25746GA160 to 162 The changes in part numbers (120-122 and 160-162 respectively) have to do with year changes so to end the debate once and for all the difference between prop. valves has do with whether the vehicle has 4wd or is a sw or whether it is 2wd..NO difference between drum and disc equipped vehicles of the same type. HTH Kaz:clap: :burnout: PS This is according to my USDM parts book.

thanks man..see what you can do Kaz

hey numbchux, do u still have the rear backing plate off the trailing arms? if yes could you measure the size of the hole that fits around the hub and the bolt holes as well for me? looking at creating a plate to adapt the legacy backing plate to the L-series hub/trailing arm three hole mount and it would help me to know those dimension accurately so I don't have 2 dissassemble my rear hub Kaz

It is my understanding (from the FSM) that the tdc signals and the 360 slits are read by two different optical picups, since it is my intention to block one of the slits in the 360 slit section of the wheel and actually ignore the 4 90 degree slits that the stock ecu uses to determine TDC for all four cylinders, I can set tdc1 arbitrarily (almost) depending on where I put the 'missing slit', how the distributor is cocked in it's mount and where I tell ms tdc1 is relative to the missing slit. Am I wrong in my assumptions/data sources? Kaz

well having been the happy recipiant of a free megasquirt (MS 1 on a 2.2 board) I'm gonna try getting it working using the 360 slot wheel in the cas by covering one of the slits and setting it up as a '360-1 generic wheel with optical pickup on the camshaft' and driving wasted spark directly from ms we'll see if it'll work..if that doesn't work I might just go fuel only and put some dummy loads on the stock ecu so it thinks it is driving real injectors and drive ms off a shielded tach signal to control the actual injectors (450cc dsm injectors or 550cc rx-7, both of these are 'bosch style injector and should be very compatible with our stock setup simply requiring a length of rubber fuel injection hose and 8 efi hose clamps using stock retainers and seals to mount them) that still leaves us with the maf and all stock sensors..I have no idea how the stock ecu will react when the maf starts reading its max flow limits, ie fuel cut..is it just a fuel cut or is it a fuel cut/timing retard? what are the communities thoughts? Kaz

if you've ever seen a brand new NTN halfshaft (OE supplier for subaru and many japanese auto makers) you'll see why everyone loves these GCK axles I've rebuild several axles using GCK outers and oe inners and shaft, they take a beating..they are NOT as good as brand new NTNs tho'..they last forever if you pack em every other year..I took apart a '99 impreza NTN oe axle last year and the *gosh darn thing* (edit for cussing nanny) was STILL tight... grease in inboard joint had failed as well as the boot, outer joint was in perfect condition.... Kaz PS u can't get NTNs for 50 bucks tho' damn good deal

Hillholder equiped cars have one LESS port on the MC than autos