PoorManzImpreza

If you need any right hand drive parts let me know.. I could drill out the spot welds on a RHD steering column mount sheet metal and ship it up there.. all you'd then need to do is line it up and weld it in..rhd dash parts pedal box etc.. the steering column is universal as long as you don't mind having your wiper and indicator switches in the LHD positions.. I know I have a LHD steering column in my RHD car. You'll find that the wiring for most of the car; lights, turn signals etc etc is actually the same... what the LHD cars do is where the bulk harness connectours are up under the dash; where the body harness plugs into the dash harness, they actually have a big nasty harness that adapts the harness from the body plugs on the right side of the body to the left hand side of the dash, in a right hand drive car these plugs just plug directly into the dash.. The ECU wiring however is what is entirely differnt between RHD and LHD especially in AUs and some JDM cars where the wiring is a mirror image of the US wiring..then on other RHD cars it is an extension of the US wiring..what this means is that with pure mirrored RHD wiring the engine harness mates to the body harness on the RHS of the vehicle Vs. the LHS..Thankfully most RHD vehicles use the extended LHD wiring for their RHD vehicles and thus the body to engine harness plugs are on the LHS of the vehicle.. Turbo crossmember considerations..Unlike EJ turbo crossmembers which are LHD/RHD univeral, EA crossmembers are specific to each steering rack..thus at a minimum you'd need to cut a LHD turbo crossmember and move and shape the RHS rack mount in about 2 Inches or so (forgot the exact measurement) and reweld the mount in place, then cut the hole for the pinion shaft to pass through..thus in effect giving you a universal crossmember. Or acquire a RHD turbo crossmember, I have access to plenty non turbo RHD crossmembers so you also have the option of acquiring a N/A RHD crossmember and simply chopping clearence for the turbo up-pipe.. If you need anything or have any questions let me know..might be quite a bit cheaper to get just the parts you need vs a front cut... HTH Kaz

The thing is even if the ej flywheel wasn't bigger in diameter and you could use an adapter as you've illustrated above you still have the fact that the clutch fork/throwout engagement point on the fingers of the pressure plate is actually more or less in the same place with respect to the crankshaft flange between ea and ej (assuming we are talking push type clutches)..thus stepping the ej flywheel up so the ring gear will line up with the ea ring gear also means you step the entire clutch assembly up which means you no longer have a clutch where the fork and throwout bearing can fit.. Kaz

Wow something I know... ej flywheel won't fit in an ea bell housing..it is a larger diameter, even if it could fit the ring gear is in the wrong place due to the step in the ea flywheel the ej flywheel is flat (except for the STI flywheel) Turbo EJ clutch and pressure plates, the pressure plate is a pull type setup totally incompatible with ANY ea gearbox..The EJ clutch disc however is completely compatible with 4wd ea82 setup except the STI disc which is 240 mm in diameter..Sorry if that ruins anyones plans.. Kaz

25143GA170 Refered by Parts book as 'DISC COVER F' seems to be universal left and right... good luck.. Kaz

Ok from what I can follow the r180 diff, which is an hitachi designed diff, is pick-up point combatible with r160 diffs for subaru applications..what isn't compatible is where the axles mount to the diff, if u did want to run an r180 in an old gen subaru you will need the r180 ej inboard DOJ joint, and a custom inner race, from say rockford cv joints at least I think that's what it was.. (PM suberdave) http://www.rockfordcv.com This will mean u can run ea** outer joint, axle shaft with a custom inner race, and balls, cage and inner from r180 ej shaft, creating a hybrid ea ej shaft that will mount to an r180 diff on the inside and an ea** stub shaft on the outer.. The bolt holes on the driveshaft flange need widening to match the larger PCD spacing on the r180 pinionshaft. I have not done any of this.. it is all theory, but theory based on people who have done r180 swaps in their wrx/rs etc and on what suberdave did to mount an ej r160 LSD rear diff in his ea82 wagon From what I have seen r200 is a no go as every r200 I've seen has had a drastically different mounting method and diff case design than subaru based r1*0 diffs..go look under a 300zx or a 240sx or a skyline and you'll see what I mean. I have no idea whether the actual diff insides can be swapped, but I highly doubt this as r200 diffs have shorter pinion shafts than subaru based r1*0 diffs.. HTH Kaz

the end of an era... Sorry you had to sell it..good montage of your history with the ride.. Kaz

they aren't on the pully but on a little metal bracket that bolts to the engine.. Kaz

Cranks are functionally the same, same keyway etc..all xt poly-v belt pulleys can be swapped with normal v-belt setup or vice-versa, the issue is with timing the engine as the spider intake blocks the timing hole in the bell housing hence why with the spider setup they moved the timing to the crank pulley. Don't see you should have an issue using the XT crank shaft, HTH Kaz

lol that is odd..I need to get a digital camera so I can post pics..I even had my parts guy pull out all three rod ends to compare them and the ea81 and ej all they way through to the current tierod share the same taper and nut etc..the ea82 end was different in many areas..I'll post pics borrow a cam or something lol I have seen ea81 tierods in an ea82 but they didn't fit right even though they did bolt in..

The ej ball joint is physically bigger by 3 mm in diameter, even if you tightened down the ej/xt6 knuckle till there was no space between where the pinch bolt tightens you still won't make up the difference in diameter. My reference in terms of 22 spline isn't where the in board joint mates to the transmision which is 23/25 spline but where the axles shaft mates with the outboard and inboard joints inside the DOJ and the CV joint. The whole ea81 axle for 5 lug swap issue is that the only thing the correct length for ea81 is ea81 most ea81 axle SHAFTS excluding DOJ and CV joint are 22 spline on either end, so we need both an outer and an inner joint that accepts 22 spline axle shaft with ea81 length.. The early '90s FWD 5 speed Legacy and impreza use 27 spline (The section that slides into the hub) outboard cv joint on a shaft that has 22 splines on the axle shaft to DOJ/inboard joint. What I haven't determined is whether the outboard joint also uses 22 splines on the axle shaft...If it did then one could build an ea81 5 lug axle very easily without cutting and rejoining an xt6/legacy half shaft to make it short enough to fit an ea81 chassis which has been the current practice.. FYI: FWD DOJ P/N is 28092AA080, this joint is 22 spline on the inner race (part that accepts the axle shaft) and 23 spline on the outer (part that slides over the tranny stub shaft.. I appologies for the confusion.. Kaz

ok the 13 inch (as referd to by FHI parts books) ej brake setup seems to be caliper compatible with ea82 calipers (something about swapping one of the guid pins, If I recall).. the 14"+ is NOT.. also the pads are sorta conpatible, the legacy/early impreza pads will fit is ea82 carrier but in some cases be just a teeny bit lose and don't have the stopper pin that prevents the caliper piston from rotating (function of e-brake) they are also a slightly different shape and can't share shims.. HTH Kaz

I don't know about numbchux observations but in my experience ea82 tierod ends aren't compatible with ej front knuckles..wrong taper/too short in the tapered section.. However ea81 tierod ends are an exactly perfect fit for ej hubs and give you back full toe adjustibility as they are shorter than xt6/legacy and ea82 tierods ends.. Also legacy axles are a few mm longer than ea82/xt6 axles.. Now I haven't tried this but: For ea81 folks..you may find it interesting that the same fwd impreza axles mentioned about.. well they are 22 spline on the axle shaft just like ea81 and some non turbo ea82..one could take an ea81 shaft and inboard assembly and source an outer joint brand new from gck and have yourself a correct length ej conversion front drive shaft..no cutting required.. (well unless u had to cut off the ea81 outboard joint).. I know the fwd ej inboard inner race is 22 spline and so are ea81 axle shafts but what I don't know is if the other end (out board joint) of a fwd impreza axle accepts 22 splin as well..it stands to reason considering every shaft I've seen has had the same spline count on both ends.. but ya never know.. Also there is plenty of meat in the metal boss of an ea82 lower controll arm to have it reamed at the machine shop to accept an ej ball joint..Unless you have suck @$$ machine shops like we do here..(How can you not have reaming tools for your 500k cnc machine?) Anyway just my 2 cents Kaz

ouch..just soo ouch:( sorry to hear that man.. Kaz

walk away from the pc and pictures appear..lol awesome so right! Kaz

ej20* pistons and ea82 pistons share the same bore size but different connecting rod rist pin location and diameter of wrist pin....I can tell u for sure that ej18 pistons are smaller than ea82 pistons.. Kaz

The output shaft and pinion shaft of full-time ea boxes and awd 5 speed boxes share the same bearings: 8063 42010 and 8063 42020; output shaft/pinion shaft assembly bearings, and 8064 30030, 8065 33010, 8064 25070; these support the pinion shaft inside the ouput shaft.. The one that galvanizes how compatible early (90-94ish) are with ea full time boxes is output shaft part number: 32229 AA000 this is shared between ea fulltime boxes and '90 ej legacy boxes, after 90 1st gear size was altered and required very slight modifications to output shaft... Later model ej boxes still use the same main support bearings, 8063 42010 and 8063 42020 (this supercedes to 8063 42040, btw), but things have been beefed up a little bit, but this doesn't prevent us from sliding a newer ej pinion shaft into the rx output shaft assembly and using the later model transfer case on our ea fulltime boxes...fyi tranfer case gasket on ea boxes is 32145AA001 and 32145AA020 which both supercede to 32145AA030 which is the current p/n for all ej five speeds.. Enjoy the lego! Kaz

couple things.. here's the formula: true AWD rx gear box: rx input and output shafts complete remove front diff and pinion shaft from rx box remove front diff and pinion shaft from turbo legacy box reuse legacy roller beearings on legacy pinion shaft including torington bearings and all spacers and the spline adapter. Get new pinion nut and washer..(ok yeah I know I wouldn't either but I gotta say it..) install them in rx output shaft torque nut to 88.5 lbft install turbo legacy front diff in left half of rx box You may have to remove rx input shaft and install turbo legacy shifter forks.. install rx/turbo legacy hybrid pinion/output shaft assembly into left half of rx gearbox setup pinion shaft/front diff. tooth engagement tighten flange of four bolt bearing finger tight install right hand side of gearbox case fasten all fasteners to spec torque figure out how your gonna operate the dual range..I recomend utilizing the center diff lock switch.. carefully lay a new gasket and install turbo Legacy transfer/center diff housing to rx box acquire turbo legacy and xt6 gearbox crossmember combine them and install to rx/turbo legacy hybrid gearbox.. install in car and measure up how much u need to hack off of your ea82 drivershaft install everything..congrats you now have a true awd hybrid rx/turbo legacy dual/range gearbox.. oh install turbo legacy rear diff into car I've seen some of this done myself and done some of it as well but I haven't done it front to back so I'm sure many steps are missing..you lose the diff lock..sorry can't be avoided.. some of this was done with a normal dual range and an impreza gearbox..so everything in the impreza box was swapped into the ea82 box..a lil bit different.. regards, Kaz oh and ea82 turbo pistons are bigger than ej18 pistons so no go..

I think u have calcification build up on the collant passage surfaces in the block and heads.. Kaz

How much clearence do you have between the bell mouth and the steering u-joint? Looks awesome, Kaz

Pictures Dealer Installed setup: Factory Installed setup:

I though the hitachi was the factory installed setup and panasonic the dealer installed setup..factory being alt on the outside and dealer being compressor on the outside.. In that case he'd have the hitachi setup no? now I'm unsure :-\ the above picture does look like the compressor outside or 'dealer installed' setup, what I thought was the Panasonic setup Kaz

er27 and ea82 share the same ECU PCB...so.. prolly the same maf as well..since so much else is the same..

Ea81t and ea82t don't have ignition problems when boosting power, they have fuel problems..The late model ea82t ignition system is very sensitive and highly responsive to knock it is calibrated to the factory knock sensor and is self programmable pulling and advancing timing based on fuel octane and knock activity.. What ea82t have problems with is supplying enough fuel to allow increased boost and bigger turbochargers... A solution like this would allow us to successfully scale our afm signal to trick the ecu into sending the correct pulse width to drive bigger injectors correctly..Our ecu is still doing the work of actual fuel delivery and ignition spark.. What I don't know is what happens when the afm maxes out? This is what separates the men from the boys as far as AFCs are concerned..It's not like we can stick our maf sensor into a bigger tube like the later model ej boys can do when they start out flowing their MAF sensors.. We also don't know what signal level the factory ecu interprets from the afm that says cut fuel.. If we increase boost and fuel we will flow more air and there's only so much we can rescale our maf signal before the AFC is sending enough MAF voltage to cause the ecu to cut fuel....Of course we could just add another maf sensor in parallel.. Having said all that we still have the problem of how to keep our stock head gaskets in place.. But since detonation is also a factor in the head gasket failure of our engines..Maybe keeping det from happening will allow our engines to survive a bit longer until the next weakest thing lets go.. I heard a rumor that 85 to early 87 ea82ts had forged pistons..True? False? I dunno def. OT though Kaz

The rear xt6 hub is NOT essentially a re-drilled ea82 hub it has a different offset, different thickness, different wheel studs, hub centering ring for wheel and brake discs. What it is, is DIRECTLY compatible with ej equipment ej brake discs mount PERFECTLY on xt6 rear hubs the xt6 hub is the correct offset for an ej backing plate mounted flush on an ea trailing arm, with appropriate centering and bolt pattern adaptation to allow the EJ shoe e-brake system 2 sit perfectly within the ej brake disc..All these things make the xt6 hub or a clone of it the best choice for our ea cars.. Now one could re-drill an ea hub 2 5x100 bolt if one simply desired to run a 5 bolt wheel..But far easier would be 4x115.4 (or whatever older Nissan and Suzuki bolt pattern is) or 4x100 (Toyota newer Nissan 4 bolt and Honda small car) and much higher wheel selection would be available.. Two mm might be removable from an ej rear hub but what about the depth of the ea rear bearing? I'm pretty sure than the hub won't go all the way through the ea bearing and thus getting an ej axle in there would be impossible.. I've been through this over and over and the more I mulled it over the more it pointed me towards xt6 hubs as being the absolute correct solution 2 our 5 bolt requirements..Just too many things already done for us in a factory Subaru part..Has anyone thought about a group buy of xt6 hubs from Japan? Keep up the research..Because I for one would love an alternate solution.. Kaz

I used to live in Kensington near the Mormon temple, just outside the beltway and near Rock Creek Park. 20895 ;-) funny how I can still remember the zip code.. That looks freaking awesome..! :slobber: What modifications did you have to make to get it fitting? How does it Sound? Kaz