SoobieDoo

Think I'll try this. It has been running pretty cool without the stat, but driving the 70mph zones causes it to creep up to over 1/2. I'm picking up the oem thermo and cap tomorrow!

Is there an easy way to check for clogging? I've driven 50 miles without the t-stat, and no overheating, if that's a decent check. I'll go oem on both the t-stat and cap, rather than risk damage with just a restrictor plate. I'll need the t-stat come winter, anyway.

Maybe I'm just looking for an excuse to do a EJ22 swap sooner? Good points...now I see. I'm just pissed that I've gone through two thermostats in under a year and the napa premium was supposed to be a good one. This last time the car overheated just a few miles down the road, after just topping off the coolants. Guess that I'll go OEM, even though that will have to be a 190.

...and I'm out. One of my workmates had already requested the time off, and didn't mention it to anyone. I'm pretty bummed...sure it will be a blast and a great way to meet many of you.

Anybody take out the thermo during the summer months? The 190 in my car was keeping the gauge at about the 1/2 mark, and now it's only reaching 1/4 to 1/3. No warm up probs, it only needs a minute, and that's carbed! It might just be my imagination, but it seems to have more power too. I can't see any possible probs by doing this, other than having to install it again come fall?

You know what will happen, one day I'll not feel like putting the open back in...

Nice. I'd like to weld up a spare diff sometime and swap em out just for trips.

Looks like you all had a blast! Any open diffs, or major probs with them?

Nice, I really like the offset on those! Looks like you drilled the wheels, though...how'd you deal with the raised areas between?

Oooooh, I like the scallop idea! Probably hammerite for the frame, same paint as on my wheels. Por15 is better, being epoxy paint, but mail order only as far as I know. With rubberized undercoating to absorb most of the shock, ham. would be just fine at $12/ qt.

Yeah, I still had some minor rubbing there before rolling it over more, but actually had some rubbing on the mud flaps too from that swing comp. It still rubs there sometimes, but there's no metal behind to back it up. I just need to fab the right shim to fully move the mudflaps back.

Nice lookin pickup there, Scott! Are you also gonna paint about the same as the model?

Still nice and clean!?! Here's the shots of the trimming. I think it's still pretty unnoticeable, unless you're staring it down. The rear front is still pretty close, but doesn't rub and I don't want to go into the door, unless necessary. Jeff...what brand of black you use? :cool:

Thanks, Jerry. In all fairness though, the camera angle favors the soob!

4" SJR lift 6 lug conversion 15" Nissan wheels General Grabber AT2's Cherry Bomb turbo muffler Weber carb w/ match ported intake Accel superstock coil Yakima rack with custom 1/2 rack basket Cobra CB and 3' firestick antenna

Yippie... I got the lift and 6 lug conversion done, and just in time for my memorial day camp out! Unfortunately, I couldn't make the camp out for personal reasons, but the goal was still met. Scott in Bellingham was instrumental with much of the work done so far. I can honestly say that this could not have been done without his help (and fine lift kit, of course!). This build is far from done, and I'll do my part in keeping you all updated with every little, boring thing that I can think of. The soob came with one of the oddest-sized hitch recievers that I've ever seen: 1-1/2". This thing is 100% angus BEEF! It's 1/4 wall 1-1/4 tubing welded into 1/8, 1-1/2. That essentially makes it 3/8" wall. This shot shows how well the nissan 15's work with the tires. Stock backspace: 5-1/4", nissans: 5", with 215/75R15's mounted. No bashing, only zzz I like pizza cutters, and oh yeah...It's my car! Overall, it's just what I was trying to achieve: The wagon that subaru should have made! I did some more trimming since these were taken, which I'll post up next time. BTW, that's a full-sized Bronco with 31's behind it!

The moose to justy ratio isn't very safe...next time hit a goat.

Redneck roof rack: Strap a pallet to the crossbars! Seriously, though, I'd keep it as light weight as possible. Something like the old VW bug racks with the wood slats, would be killer. 1X3" teak or oak, wet sanded with teak oil...

I don't know if the front plate is even required? The back's the only one that gets tabs.

The width could cause it to get caught up more off road, but will prob offer better protection for the side markers too. Overall, not a bad fit, for being non-stock. I likes it!

Do this to your brat, then 30's will work : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92202

Something like this!?! http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/hrsteel2.phtml?page=expanded&LimAcc=$LimAcc

Unique for sure! What are those tabs for in the center section? Maybe mount some expanded steel in there.

Did you soil yerself on that one!?! The stock design is kinda scary when you think about it, with just one small stud and glued rubber holding up all that linkage. I may redesign it and implement some rubber at some point, but it's working fine for me right now. I've got 3" of lift at the Xmembers, and 4" body, so that 1" difference is what I needed to fix. Not sure why yours was even messed with, since the lift was an even 3"? Thanks much for the input, though...I certainly don't want to soil myself in the future!

Any other thoughts on this? I think mine will be fine, for several reasons. For one, I extended the length. It was a good 1/2" stretch to get the rear slot onto that stud, so there couldn't have been much play left in it anyway. Now the slot is centered, so that should slide before breaking a bolt. I also left maybe an 1/8 of rubber behind on the brackets and created a weak link by bolting them together with just one 1/4". That should give it some pivot play also. I'll let everyone know if I have any probs with this setup, as this is my DD.