SoobieDoo

The lids have a rubber seal, but the trick will be waterproofing the hole for the harness. I'll try and find some kind of rubber seal, maybe from a firewall? Then there's always silicone!

Hey, it was cheap. Guess I'll paint mine and stop the rust from one side. GD, if I'm understanding correctly, wouldn't the turbo manifold decrease performance?

I've got the cherry bomb turbo on mine. Sounds nice...not much louder, but still has the rumble and I'm sure a couple more HP's. And no, it doesn't have to go in crooked like mine to fit.

Either coleman or plastic boxes are a great idea. I like to spread out my stuff a bit. A roof rack is great for muddy shovel and tow straps, EA82 stash spots in the back for most everything else. The comealong is still new in the box, so it gets special privileges on the rear floor. I'll be bolting an ammo box in the spare tire area under the hood, just for fluids (and an EJ22 brain someday!)

Yours looks real clean, and that would cost no more than the flashing.

I'd donate some for a copy of that.

...or Will !!!

I'm gonna use some neoprene roof flashing from the inside. .........

There is nothing hard about it. That's the beauty of this lift...it's cheap and easy. That's why most of the NW Subaru offroad/offroo'd club has them! The only "tricky" part is drilling the holes for the correct offset. Ask one eye, I think it's 15 degrees.

How 'bout the hood of a jeep!?!

Have you had the brat over 65 before? And I'm assuming that you're not going by the speedo, since the gearing is off. Depending on your tire size, it may never go any faster.

T-ROY!!! Looks like you're a lil better off for evans now. If you ever make it back up this way, you've just gotta try the "faceplant hole" again...prob make it fine now!

I'm working on a tow bar/recovery system. The tow bar will fold up, come off, then leave eyebolts on the bumper for shackles.

Thanks for the tips...never been on dunes before. I take it that you're the resident expert on the Lolo pass area. We'll be headed that way from east WA, and I'd like to do some wheelin, if it's not all closed off.

Really nice drawring there, what program is that? I would weld in the studs, so you don't have to access the bolt heads.

Wish I coulda made it! Even though mine's overweight, high-geared, with newer AT's, think I'll try juniper dunes in late sept.

Scott's still at Sand Lake, so I'll answer for him Not too bad, though he did all the welding. Couple of comealongs help a lot I'll just have to build one, now that I know what all to do.

Expensive cat. I'm gonna use some 1" black iron drilled at each end for pins, then 2" square tubing welded in the center with a hitch coupler. Dual purpose...remove the tow bar, and hang some shackles for recovery. I likes it!

We'll need some better close-ups of that glass top too. That pic makes it almost invisible with the angle and the background color!

I had to ditch the stock bumper, being the sad, flimsy POS it was. Here is a later model loyale with the cover and foam off, hammerite black to match the wheels, and some 5/8" eye bolts. I did the corner marker to turn signal mod also, so some foglights can be put in there. The "end supports" don't offer much protection, but I left 'em on anyway. Prob add on some tubing at some point, as well. Any guesses about the other use I have planned for the eye bolts!?!

HA, that one got me too! Someone just voted.

Not true...the other way to do it is to drill out the wheels. Proven by many soob offroaders. I've heard of plastic benderboard being used for cheap fender flairs, but it's not even needed with the right tire/wheel combo.

Can't wait to see pics from the dunes!

Not a bad engine at all...just not quite as good as many other soob engines. Add one weber, turbo exhaust, accel coil with 27" tires and still cruise at 70

You didn't mess up, if that's what it took to remove all the rust. You can treat it, patch it, and it's still gonna come back to haunt you! How about using a good fender from a donor car? You could use it as a mold for fiberglass, or cut it long, and weld or rivet.