SoobieDoo

1) I'd check the actual temps you are getting with an infrared thermometer. If it's cooling back down after spiking, sounds like a sticky thermostat. 2) Dunno...but it's apparently stock from a previous response. Save some dough and have a good radiator shop re-core it. 3) Use a combo of steering knuckles from a junkyard after the lift is installed. Others have done this to avoid welding such a critical part. Maybe an outback knuckle+ the stock one? 4) Junkyard again for the plastic liners, unless someone local has 'em. You will need to trim your fenders for 27's, but probably not much. Cut 1/2" long and roll them over with a hammer, so they don't cut your tires. 5) You can mod the hubs yourself pretty easily if you search around here, or "The Beast I Drive" does this service. Nice rig...enjoy!!!

Anyone got vids??? My fancy @$$ camera can't do that... BTW, cheers to Brian and Jesse for joining the work party!

I can think of three broken diff stubs too, Jeff. One on mine, and two on Dan's...at the same time We had a killer time, met new soobthusiasts, great camp food, black boogers, etc!!! Here's some pics: The stub buster: And the rest: http://s387.photobucket.com/albums/oo319/ericget/Walker%20Valley%20campout/

Looks great so far...can't wait to see it on the ground!!!

WAKA WAKA WAKA valley time!!! Eta 10:00 or so...

Leaving early tomorrow I'll PM ya about towing or B'ham caravan.

Wow Scott, that's still quite a bit to do...maybe we should just have a working camp out on friday. Unfortuneately, that will be the case for me. Waterpump time!!!

Maybe...but the subie was to be the toad, in case of breakage. :-\

We'll be out there fairly early, and can leave the bronc parked with all the camp gear until you guys show. Warming up the soob with a short jog to OR, so prob won't have much 'puter access 'till walker...seeyall there!!! Very nice, Scott...I'd love to see it moving! What time you leaving B'ham? ~E

So's by "blocks" for the front strut tops, I assume you intend to use pipe. I'm curious as to whether blocks, say 3X5's, braced together would even fit? Just educating myself on Lifts 101 for future plans of my own design.

pushbuttonstartonfireaphobia eh!?! Ah well, now to the fun stuff.

That sucks... but at least you could always rig up a pushbutton start easily. Making a new skidplate sounds like much more fun!

Exactly, that's a nice lift design. An inch up isn't that hard on the axles...but that's an extra inch of clearance you wont need on the tires.

Well see... My SJR lift isn't 5" just because the suspension is 1" over, it's a 4. All that means is that you'll have an additional inch of ground clearance, with 4" more for tires. So for a lift like that you'll need 4" strut blocks, and 3" for all the cross members.

Skid plate done yet?....clock's a tickin!!! ~E

Sweet bumpers man!!! Those lights look just like mine too...brand & 130W?

I'm using stock carbed lines, and I'm sure others do too, without any problems. Since you have a FI parts car though...the lines are there and free, with a fair bit of labor.

Looks great! Love the wheels...looking somewhat stock. What did those come from?

I'll be there friday too, so maybe Brian and I can "reserve" a good spot for us. I just don't wanna have to tear down the hotel tent and move come saturday.

Brilliant, Jeff...having back-up cars instead of spare parts!!! What date and time to meet up?

Nice brat! Why in the Hood area?

Here's a good thread on EJ exhausts: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111514&highlight=exhaust I've got the stock y-pipe, into 2' of 2.25" with a glasspack. It's kinda loud at times, but mean sounding.

Man, you a masochist or what...filing that flywheel by hand. That looks like a chunk of honeycomb, still in the cat.

From Numbchux write-up for a '92, it's going to be B48 pin 20 for both turbo and NA. Hope that helps...if memory serves, my idle was about 2K, so it was either that or the cable.

I don't mean to be insulting at all, but maybe the high idle is something simple? Mine was fixed simply by loosening the throttle cable and grounding the AT/MT identification pin. Now it's at 7-800 rpm.