crash321

I will pray for him and his family.

Thanks chip, looks informative. I will follow those guidelines.

That is the ultimate stone guard!!!!

Even if the "big wigs" wanted a thinner oil for EPA ratings, Engineers can engineer the car to those thinner oil specs. That is why they call them engineers. Take the Ford Escape with the V-6. That vehicle requires 5w-20 motor oil because of the tolerances. People who think that is too thin were putting 5w or 10w-30 in thinking that it would be "better". What started happening is that those engines started siezing up due to oil starvation. Ford investigated why that was happening and found the oil viscousity was to thick. So because you think that it is ok to put thicker oil in than required because you think the "bigwig" is putting the screws to you, then you should not be surprised if one day you buy a newer vehicle and do not get the long life that it was designed to get by using the thinner oil.:-\

I have a new blade on it also it wipes fine with no chatter

thanks nipper and gbhrps. It does sound like the motor. Once I remove the motor and drill out the rivets, what kind of grease should I use? I have regular wheel bearing grease. Also the shaft for the arm needs some grease also? I thank you guys for your expertise. Also nipper, I drive from saginaw mi to chicago, so When it snows or rains, the build up of snow and water is constant so I will have it on for two to three hours at times.

I thought marlette had that distriction. Sorry to dose your caro thunder HEHEHEHEHE

First off, why would you turn in $130 in damages to your car. That is something you should take of yourself. Turning in a claim is only going to jack your rates, even if it wasn't your fault. I say (at the risk of pi$$ing you off) suck it up and absorp the cost and get it fixed:-\

I have a 98 outback wagon with a noisy rear wiper and need some ideas what might be the cause. The symtoms are that it screaches rythomically(butchered) as it goes back and forth when it is cold outside.:-\ When it is warm, the noise is not there. Also after it has been on for awhile, 1 hour maybe, it is quiet. also is it suppose to operate constantly or is it suppose to operate like a delay wiper, mine operates constantly. Thanks so much for your input.

welcome. Much more experienced people here than me though. Welcome to the group. I have had my baby for almost 7 months now and drive it from Saginaw mi to chicago il. About 700 miles a week on average.

While I have not had my trans out of mine, they do have to disconnect the shift stick to drop the trans. They certainly forgot to reassemble something correctly. Hopefully the tech did not have left over parts:banghead:

The y pipe is the exhaust pipes that come off your cylinder heads on either side of the engine that go down and combine to 1 pipe to the catalitic converter (butchered the word).

I have a 98 outback with a 5 speed with 155,000 some mile and have no looseness or noise. That is a simalar trans to what you have.

I am a firm believer in using what the manufacturer recommends. They engineered the car to use certain lubes so that the car will live a long happy life. They are not trying to get people to use a cartain weight so that the car breaks early and often, that would cause people to run like he:: from that brand and never go back. My 98 calls for 5w-30, so that is what I will use. Engineers are not stupid people, they recommend things for a reason.

Was the stick loose b4 the repairs? The fork would not affect the stick unless they removed the trans to replace the fork. If they did then probaly forgot to reassemble something correctly.

year, model, mileage. No one can answer a question without knowing what kind of car it is.

I think nippers point is that the tolerances on these heads are so tight that they should be professionally checked with the proper tools and equipment that any yahoo will not have in his/her garage. If the pro shop with the proper tools finds that everything is in spec, then they are not going to machine the heads. Like he said, why do the job twice.:-\

Regarding the crumbling, I see you reside in N.E. Cali. If you are around the mountains, do you know if the road crews put out that liquid deicer before a snow or ice storm. If they do, that could be that cause of the crumbling problem. I'll explain, I am in the trucking industry, since juristictions started using this liquid deicer, maintenance faucilities started noticing that brake shoe friction material on the trucks and trailers where delaminating, cracking and crumbling. This is caused by a layer of rust that builds up between the friction material and the metal backer. This liquid deicer is much more corrosive than the regular salt used in most areas. More states are starting to go with this method of pre-emptive deicing because they are trying to cut down on expenses and manpower. The only drawback is that it will reak havok on any exposed metal part on a car. This is also the reason my brand new Freightliner started to rust right after the first winter season, And I washed it weekly!

+1 and as long there are no grooves in the disk

Is it a metalic knocking noise or could it be spark knock? Being that it only shows up under load going up hill makes me think spark knock

From my experience in the shop, I would also look at the other suspension pieces. Struts will usually not bend, but will move with the rest of the wheel. Looks more like a trailing arm/control arm being bent. I would also get it in the air or look at it froma creeper.

:lol::lol:I give you the Mr. Obvious Award! That quote just caught me funny!!!:lol::lol:

That used to be me also, reverse polarity is pretty minor to an incident where I wiped out 5 brand new s-10 pickups with a ford taurus that lost its brakes! We all have off days.

I'm guessing at incorrect jumper placement also.

I was able to find the correct wieght at Advanced Auto Parts. They even had it in synthetic!