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Everything posted by crash321
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Belt should be replaced, I believe grossgary has experience on the oil on timing belt thing, 10,000 or so miles and the belt broke. The idlers should be alright I would think, they should be cleaned off really well before putting on the new belt. edit I think those bearings are sealed, Anyone else know for sure?
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Re-Blacking Wiper Blade Arms
crash321 replied to Subarule's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I used a walmart cheapy matte black several months ago, All I did for prep was an alcohol pad. Still looks good:banana: -
Crashed Dl buying :)
crash321 replied to Caramanos2000's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I agree with heartless, This may be a good parts car and nothing else. Unless you are a body man and have the knowledge and equipment to realign it, you should probably steer clear of it. These cars are made to absorb the impact all over the structure usually causing the car to be tweaked badly. -
I the style of Cartman SSSWWWEEEEEEEETTTT!
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? gear oil for COLD weather
crash321 replied to subiemech85's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I guess if mine failed, I probably wouldn't have cruise control any more.......that would suck! -
I knew this would happen...
crash321 replied to RossMasson's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Uncle Don, you should post this as a new thread in the newer generation section as its own post, you will get more response, also you are kind of hijacking this thread. But I see your new so welcome. -
? gear oil for COLD weather
crash321 replied to subiemech85's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I can't start mine unless the clutch is pushed in, kind of like a park/neutral switch for manuals, I thought all manuals were like that. -
Subaru came out with a better headgasket, at that mileage, it might have the updated, better gasket. Recent work is easy to see by looking at the exhaust headers off of the head. The nuts will look recently worked on and the gasket will look new. But with the winter weather, I would imagine that would be hard to spot. Smell the coolant and make sure it doesn't smell like exhuast or oil and drive the car for about half and hour at least, (personally I don't think 10 minutes is enough for any car, especially in the winter).
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Hard Start
crash321 replied to Sundance's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
I would have a fuel volume and pressure test done when the car is stone cold. It really sounds like a fuel problem. Good luck:) Let us know what you find. -
How is your clutch pedal, you may need to bleed it if it is hydraulic or adjust it if it i s a cable. You might also try a trans fluid change. I don't have any experience with it but alot of guys here swear by a product called Redline. They have said it smooths out shifts and makes them easier. Do a search on it, it may be what you need to make your trans work good again!
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I am a truck driver and double clutching is a necessity (somewhat). It takes a lot of practice to do it correctly but being that your cars trans is sycronized, you will not really get the "feel" if you are doing it right. When I first started to learn how to drive a truck several years ago, I couldn't shift up or down without some "grindage". Now the only time I ever use the clutch is to start and stop. I never use it to upshift or downshift. Upshifting is easier, but you would have to get the trans into neutral right as you are coming off power to move the trans to the next higher gear and let if "float" into the next cog all without "grindage". Downshifting is almost the same as upshifting except as you bring the trans to neutral, you lightly apply thottle "think feather" , bring the trans to neutral, goose the throttle and "float" to the lower gear. The whole downshift procedure is done in well under 1 second. It just takes practice. Double downshift is something you really don't want to do in your car unless you are lugging the engine (below 1000 rpm's). Have fun and don't kill your car. And you might want to practice in a parking lot.
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I just fixed this problem yesterday, it would squeal at startup. I had new belts installed when I had the T belt done in july. They stretched from break in. I tightened the power steering/alternator belt (very easy) and tried to tighten the A/C belt which was even looser. I actually had to remove the idler bracket for the A/C belt because the nut that you have to loosen on the idler pulley was rusted in place. Impacted off, cleaned the threads, antisiezed the nut and the threads for the adjustment rod, all is tight and ready to rock and roll!
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PCV valves are a maintenance item that need to be replaced at regular intervals usually 60 to 80000 miles. if it has never been replaced, i would do so asap. they are cheap and easy to do. i have a 98 and it screws into the passenger side toward the center of the engine. the cats are probably tired at the kind of mileage you have.