crash321

Your squeak would be in relation to the rotation of your wheels, inspect the wheel that hit the pothole, you will likely find that the wheel got bent. Jack it up and rotate the wheel. Do you feel it when you turn in the steering wheel, also even though you just had your brakes done, you make have knocked something loose like a dust shield on the front wheel and it could be rubbing on a rotating member of your drivetrain (most likely rotor).

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96389 start here, search is our friend

This is usaully caused by a rust build up on the rotor rubbing on the shield or caliper, if you do have a rust build up, take a ball peen side of the hammer annd lightly tap the edge of the rotor and knock off the rust, this should solve your problem.

LX= 4cyl = suckyest car on the road (Sorry in advance, I hate ford):-\

Run, don't walk away from this car. If she was that vague on the description, they are probably the "I just put gas in it until it stops" kind of people. Better vehicles out there, happy shopping!

I knew a guy with that never stolen and he liked it. You carry the "cap" with you and you insert it before you start the car and it can be hidden anywhere you want it. He had his up underneath the dash where you could not see it.

Start fresh. Disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes to clear all codes and go from there. Also more info on your car will help, miles, engine info, ect.

I would think that it would not be any different than doing a lift, you may want to look into cv joints that can more take extreme angles better that a stock shaft. Other on here that have done a lift could answer your question better than me though since I have no experience in lifting a rig.

I finally pulled the trigger and got my wiper motor squared away this week. Chips writeup is great, the only differance on mine was that there was no circlip, difference in the MY's I guess. I cleaned it out really well using brakeclean to disolve the old grease out, put new dielectric grease on the electrical contacts and greased the snot out of all the gears and moving parts and then used a sealant around the parimeter of the back cover. No more noise, quiet as a mouse. The only thing I would add is to make sure you put the "saw" gear back in the correct hole in the round drive gear, or your stroke on the wiper my be to short. It should go in the hole closest to the teeth in that gear. Thanks for the advice guys!

I think the only issue would be the short hood and lack of trans tunnel. Transmissions from any ej series engine I believe are all plug and play with exception of the hydro and cable operated clutch with a few mods. Do some searching and you will find compatabilty questions answered. Good luck:)

I finally got to the garage and opened the hood. The measurement from the front pulley (eyeball) to the centerline on the front wheel (again eyeball with help of a door level) is 22.25". I did not measure to the top of the strut since you will probably do your own suspension. Hope this helps.

Wow, old thread, make it stop!

It quite possibly is broken, but there is a screw facing the passenger side that you need to loosen to open up the socket. The ball should still be attached to the mirror, then just simply reinsert the ball into the socket, and tighten the screw. Good luck:)

+1 but almost 15 gals from E. So HaH:lol:

They are the ones that are the smallest rubber hose usually going to an actuator, they are about the size of a pencil (maybe a little smaller) and is pretty much standard size with the exception of your brake booster vac line. Yea, buy two to three feet and cut as needed:)

My fluid in my brake master cylinder reservoir looks fine too and I have never changed it. It must be a bad seal on the cap letting moisture in. O well, I think I am going to see about fashioning one by hand before I go to the dealer and order a new one.

never thought of that, and cost is like $0.03:banana:

He has two threads going, it is a 2.2

Yes What exactly are the "classic" symptoms of a sticky regulator? And I would throw in there that it will come and go but you will always notice it at idle. The mechanism in the regulator is getting sticky and won't adjust the fuel pressure accordingly. So when you are coming off throttle and you come to a stop, you do not need as much fuel to run that engine. The regulator is suppose to reduce that pressure so that your injectors are not supplied with too much fuel. That is the chugging you are experiencing intermittantly.

beat me to it:)

Could be simple evaporation.

Check out autozone for a replacement bulb holder they should have somthing you can wire in (Autozone still open in caro?)

Bad idea to remove plugs in a hot engine with aluminum heads. Make sure it is cool before removing plugs otherwise you may end up with aluminum filings filling the threads of the old plugs. Edit posted to late glad it went well.

The only thing I have found that helps with a sticky regulator is Lucas fuel injector lube. Fuel injector cleaner and techron don't have a lube quality to it. The lucas should help but it won't fix it. It is just a band aid till you can get it fixed. The only way to make sure it is the regulator though is to put gauges on it. But thos symptoms are classic regulator going south. my .02:)

98 OBW 2.5 5 speed 159,000 miles. I have had this problem since I have owned the car, The clutch fluid turns dark and nasty after a week after being changed. I have replaced the Slave cylinder and hose to fix the "pedal won't come back up problem" and replaced the fluid of course with new fluid from unopened container. I did this job in August 08. The fluid was dark in about a week or two. So I changed the fluid again from another unopened container and this time I used the synthetic fluid from valvoline. Again the fluid went dark after a few weeks. I checked the seal in the cap and it seems fine. Any ideas before I order a new cap and seal for the clutch master cylinder? Thanks all.