crash321

I have never dealt with having a rack rebuilt, I have always just had it replaced with a new one. If the guy has experience at it and they will warrenty the work for a reasonable amount of time, then it might be a good option if the cost is much lower than a new rack.

Small world. I lived in and graduated from Kingston, My sister lives in the caro area with her husband so I come through there sometimes. Nice to know there are subie owners near me. I also worked at the walmart and the dairy queen when I was in college.

I would fix it, cheaper than a car payment:)

These carbs have soleniods? If it does then that will most likely be your issue. Seems like every car I have ever come across (GM's and japenese Dodge's) with these soleniod carbs, they do exactly what you describe. Soleniods are probably going south.

What year is the EJ 22?

Disc should be fine, Whoever turns it should measure it to make sure it is safe to run before handing it back over to you. I know that NAPA and some others turn rotors and they will have the specs. Pads should be fine because they repeatly get extremely hot when you stop from highway speeds.

Definately use a subaru wire, Non subaru wires can cause problems with misfire and general bad running.

Shouldn't matter. Driver side one will just have a shorter life if your had it turned. Personally, I never have been able to have any disk turned when I do a brake job because they were to thin.

I always swing the VIN to my insurer before I buy a car, sometimes it is the insurance that breaks you and not the car payment. Just a thought.

Wire probably didn't get hot, it is just in a hot enviroment. Plus look in that pic where the wire is damaged, it is against a piece of the distributor. You just need to get that wire insulated well. Good job finding that wire.

New ones are suppose to be better than the previous gen with the 2.5. Realator huh? You will want something that you can fit clients into. The Forester looks nice, it is what I would buy if I had the cash.

Yep. OOORRRRR, Sharpen the end, they make awesome collapeable javalins

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHH AAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH Pretty

I'm surprised you have not been ticketed for the headlight. I was pulled over and ticketed for the same thing only it was still relatively pointed forward and it was someone elses car. I was told I either have to fix it or have it junked. UMMMMMM ITS NOT MY CAR!!! Thats the michigan state police for you (Caro post) BTW I see your location is Caro, Is that the one in MI?

Just takes practice. Use a good quality mask tape made for automotive paint. Also a sharp exacto knife will help greatly too with getting the tape to do what you want it to do. What I do is mask with a thinner tape like 3/8 inch and then when all the detail is done I take newsprint (I too am a cheap bastard) and a wider tape and cover up what I do not want paint on. When you remove the tape, always pull away from the work at a 90 degree angle, other wise your paint may come with it

+1 then, have someone in the car to watch the guage and move the wiring around. I guess since the car is throughly burbed and running good, you are probably just dealing with an electrical issue.

I only caught on when he said 3.7 quarts That is the amount of gear oil for the manual trans.

If you think it is coming from the trans then push the clutch in to stop the trans from spinning and listen for the noise, if it is still there, then it won't be the trans itself but maybe a pilot bearing. 3.5 to 3.7 is not a big difference and should not have started a noise. Stethescope is a good thing to use. Good luck:)

Glad you got it fixed.

Probably should stick with an OEM sensor.

Me thinks so 2

I don't think it can be done. If you could, they wouldn't last because the gas leaked out of them in the first place. You would have to reseal them somehow before recharging them. Would probably be father ahead going to advanced auto and buying replacements. I think they came with a lifetime warrenty.

When you apply the brakes your o-ring in the caliper, that is square in shape that resides in a groove, flexes outward with the piston somewhat. When you release the brakes, that o-ring returns to it normal "shape" Kind of likeyour return springs in a drum brake assembly. O rings eventually lose their elasticity and no longer perform the "return spring" function. Even though you can turn the wheel easily, it doesn't take much pressure to build heat in a brake assembly that is dragging. Just think of rubbing your hands together lightly for a period of time, you can move them easily, but it still builds heat. You can buy a rebuild kit but the agravation involve is not worth it. Rebuilt calipers are a good value and the easiest way to go. If that dust boot was torn in any way on the piston, then that is a sure sign that you should replace the caliper. Replace the caliper, that is the problem.

Air pockets then if the gaskets were just done. Jack up the front of the car and fill the top hose with coolant and remove the plug on the radiator opposite the cap and give that baby a good burb then. That maybe your issue. Do that before you start condemning parts:) Are you sure the headgaskets were done? Temp gage going red is not good, anyway, burb it first and go from there.

Now I can see why the baseball cap and sunglasses for your wife