crash321

I am really suprised you have exhaust issues. My exhaust on my 98 is original. They must put so lighter pipes on the newer cars. I would imagine that a muffler shop would be able to point you to a OEM muffler if you need one as long as you trust them:)

Maybe not foolish but it is a gamble you have obviously won on several times. If your waterpump siezes, tensioner and pulleys grenade, ect, your car well um stops. And if you have an interferance engine stops permanantly until you inject vast amounts of cash to rebuild it or worse yet replace the engine. It is insurance and piece of mind to have it done. You did not mention year, model, mileage.:-\

If the muffler is fine, why not just fix the exhaust leak? my $.02

That I am not sure of. I do know that excessive play will cause problems with car running badly to not at all. Because excessive play will cause the spark to not jump across from the rotor to the cap correctly and at the right time. A haynes manual may have the backlash spec on a distributor. Some others here may have that answer to. Try this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31754&highlight=distributor+backlash. Good luck:)

MMMMMMMM I was going to say floor it when you crank it. That tells the computer to not deliver fuel to the cylinders while cranking. Any CEL's? What is the temp when this happens? If it is really cold, It could be that you have a carbon build up situation. It will start up initially, but may not the second time around because it is not getting enough fuel. The carbon acts like a sponge and will not allow the fuel to stay in a gaseous state to cause ignition. This can be a big problem if you drive your car short distances. If you have never had a upper cylinder cleaning (not even sure subaru recommends this) I would do this. I have had this same problem on a Saturn that we own. My wife job is 5 miles away so the car doesn't fully warm up. GM recommends that an upper cylinder carbon cleaning be done. The difference is very noticable and get about 2-3 miles per gallon better. Some have done seafoam but I don't really think it works that well. (that comment may start a controversy) I believe in the service that they actually run the car on the chemical that cleans the engine. Works great and costs around $100. It is expensive but the difference is very noticable.

If that is the case, then he may just be low. Convince him to take the cap off and fill er up. He may be all right if he hasn't noticed anything in the cabin (steamed windows, sweet smell, ect). He should replace the radiator cap, he could be losing the fluid there. Just tell him it is the cheapest route to try first (but you know that). Good luck with your hard headed B I L.

So are you saying it doesn't crank after you move it until you jump on it?

Low coolant. Check out where the leak would be, (hopefully not the core, dash in those is a SOB to get out) if it is the core, try some stop leak first. Good Luck.

Actually both, but side to side would be the one that would cause damage to your cap eventually, and rotational would show a worn gear.

That's a really good idea in cold weather, I will try that next time I have cold weather painting to do.

Look on the firewall to see if you have a fluid resevoir (other that your brake master cylinder) if you do then it is hydralic.

It may not be fuel pump freindly. If it says not to, I would not do it. I believe that stuff was made to run the engine with the fuel pump disabled to do the cleaning. It wouldn't hurt as a throttle body cleaner sprayed in.

I believe you need a gm special tool to administer into the intake, injection system.

Mr Bubble freaken hilarious:lol:

That is going to be my next project on my 98 obw, rattle drives me nuts.

I totally missed the dual setup DOH!

One way to definately tell is if the car stalls out after going down the road at highway speed and fully warmed up. I always put the car in nuetral as I come to a stop, and it would stall every time , to hard on the clutch and gearbox to downshift through the gears in my opinion.You also said there is no power (that would be the fail safe mode) Does it feel as if only half the engine is running? That would be a big clue. You could clear the code and see if it pops back up after you drive it some more.

Ghosts mmmmphmmm yep ghosts:eek:

Yes. And it went all of the sudden (damn mouse). It is located on the passenger side of the thottle body and has like a 1" hose running to it from the airbox.

I personally hate Ford but the Ford E-250 is quite reliable.

I had the same problem (P1507 Idle control system malfunction (fail-safe)) with my car and the exact symtoms with my car as you do with your car. Hold on to your wallet if your by a new one. They are very pricey, like $320 is what I paid for mine. After it was replaced, all was good again.

Home depot usually carry those can holder/triggers. They just snap on the can and help keep your hands from getting overspray on them. But they only work with the regular tips, not the "ergonomic" tips some of the more expensive paint brands put on their cans.

Being that I don't know much about the subie carbs, I would think that they are getting worn and are leaking causing the "hunting" you are describing. That is what happened to my brother in law's dad's japenese dodge truck. Freakin expensive to replace if you are lucky enough to locate the parts.

Pics are always helpful. They help others too.

You will have one towards the front of the tranny on the pass side. Look straight down from the firewall, easy find. The other one I believe is located in the tailshaft section of the tranny. It would be the one to detect wheelspin and engage the rear wheels. Sorry to hear about the bubbles, good luck.:-\