crash321

yes, behind the door panel just like the front:) whoops 2002, i am ignorant. So I will say "I think"

Any clunking or creaking? Rust? I see new undercoat. Probably ok to keep driving

+1

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO:lol:

Wow nipper, you are stealth, how do you do that while showing offline. (sorry for the highjack)

I should elaborate, take the cable and bring it around so that the pin slips into the hole, then take the cable and route it through that open part in the cam and feed cable around the cam the way you have it now. But the pin needs to be up and down, not the way it is sitting.

yes, you should just see the top of the pin when installed correctly.

No one has mentioned this, but I have to ask because I have had two different makes of vehicles do similar things you are describing, including my subie. Do you have a trailering package and a trailer wiring connector box on the driver side attached to the side of the reciever hitch?

Yea I know, I am that one wierd one :-p:brow:

I am glad they found the problem.

I second that comment ob99w. Sometimes it is worth the money to get a proper diagnosis and not just throw parts at it. If you are unable to do the test properly, you should take it to someone who can.

Because market determines price. That is what they are worth. They will still depreciate when you drive them off the lot. Once used, they will not sell for that same price. Used is still a better value.

Keep a close eye on your temp, coolant level, and really watch for coolant getting pushed into the overflow. If your rad was leaking, it probably caused the coolant to not go to the overflow. If you do start noticing that is does get pushed into your overflow, another member has suggested loosening your bleed screw on the passenger side of the radiator to prevent the pressure from getting to high. Just a little venting of that screw is necessary and keep your coolant full, that will get you by till you can fix it right.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79989 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91334

You may have to remove the door panel to get at the connector. I just had my door panel off to fix the inside door lock and found the connector for the mirror. It is easy to remove. Take the triangle piece off by prying with a screwdriver (could be a tweeter but comes off the same way but has wires attached) then pry off the caps in the door pull and by the door handle and remove the two screws. Then take a flat stiff putty knife or interior panel tool and slide tool between the metal of the door and the interior panel and pry by the little clips to pull them out. You may have clip that you have to pull out before you go any further towards the front of the door panel that gets hidden by the dash when you close the door. have fun:)

You should be able to follow the fuel lines right to it.

Yes, I am curious what they find, hope all turns out well:)

Then I would leave well enough alone and seal it. Just use a gasket scraper and carefully get the gasket material off, follow up with your fine scotchbrite pad to just clean it up pretty, but do not go trying to remove those pits, you will end up with a low spot and a failure point. Make sure you tighten your heads down correctly, there is a special procedure on here somewhere, just need to search for it. Good luck:)

I have had very good performance with Anco's Beam Blade from Walmart, much more reasonable for a beam blade than bosch or rain-x. Been using them for about 6 months still with good performance, and only about $8 a blade:banana:

You may have a lemon, but I would not know what the lemon laws are in turkey. By the way, you have very good grammer in your writing.

Well if you scotchbrite to aggressively you could create a problem. The pitting is concerning. Did your headgaskets fail at the pitted area? Using a gasket scraper is better than using sandpaper or scotchbrite pads to clean up the head. Problem is that your heads need to be prefectly straight with no low/hi spots to allow proper sealing. You are gambling when you say that you are going to scrub away the pitting.

A device that you plug into your cig lighter to preserve radio, clock, ect. You obviously were not using it:grin:

could you post some good pics?

Disconnectg the green connectors. Also make sure you are not using a memory saver when trying to clear codes (I know that sounds silly, but I know people that have done that, and it wasn't me:)) Disconnect the positive cable and leave it disconnected for about 15 minutes. This works for me every time. Good luck:)

That sounds suspect to me. A MAF is not "sealed" with silicone. If the cover on it moves around with your finger, it is broken. Don't use that mechanic again and get your money back on that part, he screwed you. Get that code read (it will probably be for the MAF) A MAF that is bad will cause the exact problems you have described. A new MAF is expensive, see if you can find one at a pick and pull yard as they rarely go bad. Good luck and let us know.