BobBrumby

I was looking over my pcv system today: I had the car running with no hoses on the nipples of the valve cover and there was air coming out of the nipples on both sides . Why would my crankcase be pressurized, this from blowby or is it meant to be like this?

yeh i got it all done and no sparking of charging cable, seems to be working fine, have to wait till tonight to see if the lights are still dim tho.

btw U only need to pull one axle and you also need the cv cup spindle half to out thru your hub or your wheel will fall off.

Put a voltmeter accoss battery terminal at idle it read 14v and at 5000rpm it reads 16v, dodgy voltage regulator? You guys recon a new altinator or a remanufactured one?

Sorry to hijack but would ovaling the top strut mounting holes towards the engine on both sides fix the camber? Like how many degrees is the camber out? I worked out to fix 1 degree of camber takes like 12mm of slotting if the strut is 700mm (approx) above the ground. for example: tan(angle)=opp\adj tan(1)=opp\700 700*tan(1)=opp opp=12.21mm Is that correct? Then Once you have em sloted you take it to a suspension shop to get it sorted on the puter. Or would the spring rub on the inside of the wheel wells if you moved it that far?

Yeh just for future reference it turned out to be a sticking thottle linkage, a little carb cleaner and wd40 seemed to fix it. Another thing with the small coolent lines, I blocked off both the holes in the manifold and ran the one on the block to the one on the heater core feed, is this bad?

I just got round to jb welding up the coolent pasage under my adapter plate after having it leak for some 30k km. After taking ot for a spin I realised that the throttle sticks, if you turn the thottle linkage on carb by hand it also sticks. It started doing this a bit before I pulled the holley off again but not as bad, it was and still is an intermitent problem. I did do the carb base bolts up pretty tight and I read you can warp the base of the carbi, will loosening fix it back up? Should I just get a return spring? As its not hard to turn the linkage back by hand. I am running some radiator flush it it atm so its running a little hotter than usual would this effect it? Note: when I first installed carb 30k km ago there was no sticking, and has only popped up in the last 5k km, this was before I bolted it down for the second time. Also how hard are holley 180s to rebuild? Another thing with the small coolent lines, I blocked off both the holes in the manifold and ran the one on the block to the one on the heater core feed, is this bad? Cheers

I did a quick search and just wont to clairify before I get left at the side of the road with a dead battery: The other night I started my brumby and all the warning lights, except oil pressure, stayed on. Brake fluid, charge, handbrake, tail lamps where the ones that where left on. I found it highly unlikely they all failed at once so decided to drive. Kept checking them during transit and about 5 minutes into my commmute they went out, I make it back home. I go out and start it the next morning and its back to normal. Is this a dodgy alt? Can you just replace the diode bridge in the Alt?

Mine does the same thing all the time, hard to get out of 4wd, untill someone told to shift out of 4wd while going up a hill. I tried it and now I always wait to be going up a hill before i shift out of it.

I was watching my name is earl the other day when I saw a brumby with the american flag painted over the whole thing. It is his ex missus' car and is the episode where his brother has score a try and they pay back the bookie. Just thought i should put it out there.

that looks like something mad max would drive, bumper looks preddy good tho

unless you overadjusted the cable, e.g. starting to release clutch with no foot on the pedal, a clutch should never slip as the clutch cable only releases the clutch and does not give any clamping force (thats the pressure plate's job). So I think your clutch is on the way out or maybe the autozone one was sticking.

On the bottom of the shifter there is a small green bush that takes up the slack between plastic white piece, in the tranny, and the shifter. On my (and probably yours) it was complete decintergrated. the bush slips over that small piece at the bottom, below all that wear. You are lucky cause it looks like you caught it in time and not worn off the piece that holds the bush on. Goto a subaru dealer and they should be able to sort you out for a few dollars. This should fix most of the slop but the shift fork, where the shifter bolts to, also come loose where it bolts to the shift rod sticking out of the tranny. This is somewhat harder to fix but the green bush will make a varst improvment.

Maybe the po wanted didnot like you very much as i know if you leave lead sinkers in an alluminium boat for long enough you will come back and have a hole in it. Bloody electrolisis

I did mine with an angle grinder, cut the shaft close enough to the outer joint so whats left of the shaft wont stop the inner race from rotating inside the joint. Oh crap i skimmed thru your 1st post preddy quick thats not much help to you

You have to pull pistons out from the top, or sides as it is. You need to pull engine to remove the back two cylinder's gundgoen/wrist pin, as the access hole is behind flywheel bellhousing. Why exactly do you want to do all this stuff? As an ea81 should go fine till 250k km, I have heard stories of some of this vintage still having majority of factory crosshatching.

Sand paper trick would work for a little while but it the clutch plate would wear the scratches away after a few . You would need a pressure plate with beefier springs in it to be perminent e.g. a heavy duty one. I supose You could also try putting some brass bolts thru your plate as some worked skylines use brass button clutches to get the power down but I dont recommend it. Infact doing so would probably wreck your clutch components in a short time.

also mine doesnot have a choke and when the engine is cold and you give it too much gas to quickly it misses and then decides to make power, which gives a bit of a buck. you might be running lean but this is just a guess.

yeh i had the same feeling when i first got my webber. you could put an extra return spring on the linkage but this will cause extra wear to the thottle shaft. i recon just suck it and see

Its under your distributor cap, and btw its probably not strictly called an ignition module, I aint good with termanology at the best of times .

Yeh most people use jb weld and a bit of fly screen to stop it from dripping down manifold. I made my air cleaner out a street sign, now thats cheap, Pretty much 2 ovals cut to the size of the air filter you picked with the carb top shape cut out in one, a few whole to bolt to carb and bolt imberteen eachover and you have an air cleaner. I picked the largest filter I could get that would fit with the spare tire. A plumbing/gas shop can sell you the fitting to connect the pcv line. I like a big filter cause I supose you can leave it longer without changing it.

Your on the right track but I cannot remember the entire reasoning behind it. Pretty much the electronic points breaker grounds the secondry of coil just before firing and disconects just after. This is so the secondry winding is only heating up while spark is made and not during the whole rotation of engine which equates to a longer life for the coil. So if you have old points breaker you need a balast resister but with the electronic points it is not required. Also remember that this blaster2 draws more current through the electronic points than stock so they have a tendency to burn out quicker. Might be an idea to keep a spare ignition module in your car for those long trips.

Yeh with the centre diff locked you should be able to arc up a front and rear wheel. Well probably both rear wheels as you should have a lsd in the rear. I supose you could also jack up rear end and try turn a wheel by hand. You will need someone to hold the other rear wheel still. If you cant turn it your centre diff is locked and if it does turn your centre is open. Never tried that but i think it should work.

Any air that goes through the maf sensor then does not go through engine, atmosheric dump, will make it run rich for a second. This is because the ecu has added fuel for this air but its no longer going to the engine. So the engine gets too much fuel (rich) after you close your throttle quick enough. Main reason for a bov is once you get off the throttle less exhuast is being made so the turbo make less boost aswell, but a second before you got off it the turbo was losts of pressure. As higher pressure air flows toward low pressure air the boost made 1 second before getting off the throttle is trying to flow back towards the turbo instead of towards the engine. If this reverse air flow is sufficent it will slow the turbo impeller or in theory turn the impeller backwards. A bov is placed imbertween turbo and engine on the intake side. When the valve sees that there is less pressure in itself with reference to the intake manifold, it opens and dumps this air, which is about to flow backwards toward turbo. Dumping this air alows the turbo to be spinng faster between gear changes than if the air flowed back thru it and slowed it down. I hope you can get what I am trying to say. So in theory a bov wont make more ponies but will allow the turbo to spool faster.

Power=Curent*Volts 55=curent*12 cureent=4.5833 Amps This is for one bulb so you need a 10amp fuse and holder to power them both. I would use a relay also. Like what do you need to know? I could help you out with some switching diagrams if you want. Yeh the leg should ground them, so ideal if you have a bull bar but the metal inside the plastic bumper is also eathed.