BobBrumby

Well as long as you dont turn it on and the bearings are in good shape there should be minimal loss in power from it.

All I can think of is your oil might be a little hotter cause there is less of it, run an oil cooler to fix it.

Sorry to get off topic, but what exactly was your 'bad' pcv valve doing to your car?

my doj (inner joint) was worn as when I reinstalled and it made some wierd noises on decell/getting off trottle/downsifting and vibrations by the end of its life and like when ever it wonted to. I then bought a reco axle and realized how tight the joints where new. Like when I held out the new axle out horizontaly the cv and doj hardly bent down. When you did your 4wd swap were the axles worn?

http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1987&make=SU&model=BRT-4WD-002&category=All&part=PCV%20Filter&dp=false I was look through the catlog and found this, where does it go? Never seen it on my brumby.

I used a piece of wood that was split at one end and hit it out with a hammer. I used cause it was the first thing I layed my hands on that fit. But I found that as I hit it took some of the force of the blow of the hammer as the wood crumpled. Just pulled it back in with the axle nut. Bearings are fine now and ill do the same thing next time I change an axle.

I just removed the radius rod in my brumby to replace the buhses to find that it has a slight bend where the flange, that bolts to controll arm, tappers off. This is only just noticable by eye. I thought these things where straight and can be put in either way, so should i put it back in and forget about it or buy another one. If i do put it back in should it be the way it came out or reversed so it can bend back? A quick reply will be appricated as i wont to get it back together today.

Well if a holley 180 installation is anything to go by, you need a hose from the the base of your carb (ported vac) to run the disty vac advance. leave the big pipes running from your valve covers intact as this prolongs your engine oil life, you should also clean these pipes and valve in manifold as mine where clogged with heavy oils and crud. there is a bowl ventilation vapour line on the carb that CANNOT be blocked or it will make your engine die after 20ish miles down the road. this on mine ran to the charcoal canister but that's if you have one. If it has a erg valve i think you can make a plate to block it off but aussie ea81's dont have this so ask someone else. then take every thing else out except the fuel and the two small coolent hoses on the block. block off all now vacant nipples on the air cleaner, carb and intake manifold. the hardlines under the intake manifold dont have to be blocked off aswell as the temperature valves ontop of the manifold, if you have them. you can get vacumm plugs from your local car part shop. from memory thats it.

egr = exhuast gas readmision, it puts exhuast into intake manifold and i dont think aussie soobs came with it, my brumby doesnot. it should be bolted in the middle on the back of the inlet manifold.

there is a large allen key key you will need to remove the wrist/gudgeon pin plug. You have to remove atleast 2 pistons on one side to split the block. when taking off heads there is an order to loosen the nuts. Make sure you lable which piston goes in which bore and lable the parts so you can put the valves, rocker assy. and tappets back on the place from where it came from orriginally. other than that have fun and try not to loose any bolts

no eperinace with efi but when my one went it put a shake thru the whole car so i would think that shake would be tranfered to the engine aswell, although somewhat cussioned from engine mounts. so yes it could

Oooooeeee shiny, anyhow looks pretty nice. How does the coupe like it, lot more revvy? Btw how much did it cost and how much wieght was removed?

scrapping the 1/2" layer of dirt/oil/rocks/twigs off my engine x-member, hehe the paint was kept like new under that "protective" layer.

I remember someone saying there is a plug with an allen key (hexagonal) in it on the oil pump near the other sender. So this means you can keep the idiot light sender in there and also have your mrchanical guage sender. Btw how much did you pay for your guage?

rebuilding axles without a grease gun

1990 Brumby: 1. Would worn front shockies/springs cause the wear i am getting on the outside of my front tyres? Like if the springs sag does this make more possitive camber? No lift, stock suspension. 2. I went and got a wheel allinement, after my crash, I had the spare on at the time and i think i got a dud mechanic. He said my chasis was bent out 10mm. When I got home I compared the regular wheels and the one spare. I found that where he put his "measuring assy." datum point on the spare there was ripple sticking out 15mm from hub. The regular wheels are 5mm out from hub, where he put his "measuring assy.", this would explain the 10mm of bent chasis. Would it be worth getting another allinment at a differnt place with all 4 wheels the same. 3. When I did my clutch I noticed the Torque stay rod bush was split, is the device that controlls Torque steer?

yeh i would have thought it would be 12 volts aswell. have you checked the voltage across the terminals on the battery?

one and its runnin

when i looked at draining the oil in my rear diff the drive socket was about 1-2mm smaller than the square whole. did you guys have the same problem? i just dont want to do any more damage to them.

i am begining to think its a combination of the bushes and worn sleeving for the bush 1-2" up thew stick

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=3401 both are in second gear just sitting there, then the slop makes the clash. hey these photos turned out alrite for night shots. anyone ever had the reverse problem only when in 4wd?

which way does the washer on the shim go? inside the bush 1-2" up the 4 spd shifter there is a metal pipe that has a washer welded to one end. the sift fork bolt goes thru here. it can go in either way but as when i bought the car this part was only present in the parts that came with it, i do not know how it is ment to go. when you select 2nd in 4hi in your cars the 4wd selector is low enough not to or is it higher?

on closer inspection today i found the 4spd shift rod hits 4wd nob, instead of two nobs clashing. tranny mounts have less than 5k km, as for bushes i got the green one at base of rod but the one up about 1-2" seemed fine when I dismantled. Is it wereth gettin the on up 1-2"? also what does the rod running down the american's driverside of the tranny do? It has an expandable peice, like on tie rods, and runs forward from where 4wd selector rod goes to on the tranny. The other end has something going into the tranny just before the bellhousing bells. Thanks for the repllies for far.

When i change into second when in 4hi the 4spd gear nob hits the 4wd one right at the end of the stroke. So its not holding it out of gear but just clunks every time you shift into 2nd. Did it come like that from the factory or can I adjust it? btw I have gotten rid of most of slop by replacing bushes and the bolt the selector fork down method. Also when in 4wd hi again and selecting reverse there is hardly any back stroke to get into it unlike in 2wd where it has nice slot. Again you can get the gear but it has already slipped out once. Could this also be caused by an unadjusted 4wd selector? A quick reply would be great as I have it rwd and 4hi is the 'normal' possition now. And btw I can go arround corners allot faster in fwd then rwd, i found that out yesterday the scary way.

sorry to hijack but, how long should the oil and alt dummy lights stay on after starting the car? like a second?