BobBrumby

Nah the clutch covers the flywheel mounting bolts.

Yeh same here, the corner of the altinator bracket hits the 'box' in the manifold under the carb. You might also have to bend the connector pipe off the disty vac advance can to clear the manifold.

Gday all My webberized brumby has a small miss at idle and I tired various items like sparkies, ht leads, cap and rotor to fix it all to no avail. I have not ever touched the air/fuel since i installed it 15k km ago. I recently bought a vac guage for my bike but it only works on my brumby. I was wondering how you to tune it using a vac guage. 1. Are you after the most vacuum you can get? 2. When you start to run a bit lean does the vacuum reading go down? 3. Which way do you turn the weber screw to lean out? Cheers

yeh fronts are longer so the backs would have to be also.

The intermitent can wiring was already in my dl brumby, it is a 6 wire plug that has a plug conected to it with one 'yellow wire'? jumpered between two of the wires, near steering column. The switch wiring was plug and and play, dam site better than windows . Except the plastic int. shrowd didnot fit the job was a complete breeze. So happy intermitent wipering.

I have just about finished porting, on the water jacket side i have 3-3.5mm of surface, at the worst, for the gasket to seal. Note that this was a virgin manifold with only minor scraches I have made. I took the head side of the manifold out to 35mm, jeez subaru really dropped the ball on the inside of this bend. All i can say now, is mine looks like a circle. The two extra depth ea82 carb stud nobs are nearly all gone except a ridge where the dremmel would not reach. I have another ea81 big barrel manifold spare so I might post some comparison photos tomorow. For anyone wanting to do the same i sugest you use the dremmel high speed steel shapers. The grinding stones clog up and never cut as well as the steel ones anyway. Three questions: 3-3.5mm enough to hold back the coolent? Like where should I expect power gains when I bolt it on? Is the standard metric 12mm headed bolt fine or course threaded and what size hole?

I am porting out an ea82 manifold for my webber and was hoping the get rid of the carb heater line, for hitachi autochoke, and the other one that goes to a barb on the t-stat housing. I was just wondering if these two lines cool the block at all because I was thinking about blocking the two barbs on the manifold and conecting the two barbs on the block together. Any thoughts? Hey Tom I though your photo gallery is great. I read on one of your pictures that you need to cut a bit of the altinator bracket away, is this because the heater return pipe on the manifold hits it. Ifso could you cut the pipe shorter instead?

I am getting this squeaking noise out of something at the top of the strut. You can get it to make the noise by pushing down then lifting up that corner of the car. That side does need a new ball joint which i am in the process of ordering but the noise is much higher than there anyway. 92 Brumby. 1. Do the strut tops get squeaky when they are old? 2. Or could it be the strut?

if its anything like the ea81 no a/c the full current of the fan is switched by the thermoswitch.

cheers thats what i needed to hear

Maybe i should elamberate, the tight one is so tight that you push really hard then it moves and stays in possition till you move it again. the loose one is easy to push and it rebounds to a certain spot, but no slop. Is the tight one still the good one? Also the tight one is one the side that has allot of possitive camber.

I have inspected both ball joints on either side, one is really tight and one is loose but not sloppy. Which one is failing, the tight one?

I had a look today while it was idleing and you can see air bulbles coming up thru the seem. Would blow-by be causing pressure in the crankcase? Cause i dont see how the pressure inside the block could get higher than outside with just a dodgy pcv valve to be at fault. Atm One valve cover goes to the air cleaner and the other runs to the pcv valve. Should I put back in the stock T piece with the restricted line going to aircleaner, imbertween head and pcv valve? Would it be a bad idea to disconect the pcv hoes while running and see if the bubling stops?

280k KM and i dont think the engine been changed.

Sure it does if you lie on a angle in the tray its the hypotenuse of the triangle, so it longer, than the length or width.

Duno if the P.O. changed to a non standard valve, I have just cleaned it a couple of times in kero. I dont Run that filter anymore since the holley 180 was installed. Did subaru put a bead of rtv silicon between the to halves when they assyembled it?

I have nearly fixed all my oil leaks and now it just refuses to stop leaking oil. Well nothing serious but there is oil where the 2 halves of the block meet at the top, I am sure its not the oil filler tube as i got it fixed on the 2nd attempt. I got a holey 180 also. Anyone had any issues like this? Could this be from blowby, now there is no dodgy gasket for the pressure to escape from so it goes out the next best thing?

I need to reboot a doj now as I have seen the split is starting in one of the grooves. I just check mine everytime I check my oil, well the front inners anyway. I have not had much luck with my remanned axle as the doj started clicking again on deccel soon after putting it in, that was the reason I changed it in the first place.

Did anyone else keep scrolling accross enough to see the H12 , so what car did they come in?

I used a dentists pick my mum got from work, you know the thing they scratch your teeth with, failing that maybe a compass would work. Just make sure you dont scratch the sealing edges on case/crank.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9141&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=3401 Heres my sterio.

I think there a company that can replace the diaphram for you. But i recon just goto a j/y and pull one that can still hold a vacuum.

Since when was this not under the dash? As the dash is above the steering column and therefore under the dash is the removable pannel.

If the amp meter is anything like a regular multimeter they need to be hooked in series with the possitive or negative battery cable.

For some reason I dont see an old sube needing the 2nd half of speedo as they dont go that fast.