BobBrumby

Just depends what condition the radiator is in, if its starting to get fin rot or leaking anywhere you should get a new one but otherwise the repaired one will work well. Just my 2 cents

I have never done a clutch in my life so this will be the first. I have read a few posts and the stuff in the usrm just a couple of questions: 1. How rusty can a flywheel be before it need a resurfaced and does the clutch life suffer if the flywheel aint done? 2. I think I am going to pull the engine and was wondering if the stock jack is upto raising the g. box/engine assy. up engough the clear the engine mount studs from the engine x-member, ofcourse with a block of wood to protect the g. box sump? 3. I have about 168k miles clocked up and need to know if the engine mounts should be replaced? 4. I have read in numerous posts that while the block is out it easy to replace the water and oil pumps, with this many miles would either of these require attention? Note the temp. guage reads always a bit below halfway unless stitting at a set of lights for a prolonged period, then it raises to halfway. 5. I am going to do the valve cover and oil pan gaskets while i am it, do these reuire any sort of sealent or do you just bolt then down firm?

What car do you have would be helpfull e.g. carb, spfi, mpfi, year and miles? Is your ecu throwing any codes (if you have efi) or has the carb ever been rebuilt? Like are there any other symptoms other than the bad mpg? btw: how many miles are you getting to the gallon now?

ej22 has about 130 stock horses and the ea82t would have to be meesed with a bit to get that figure. If you what to keep the ea82 box with the ej22 you will need to make or buy an adapter plate. I recon ej22 as you will have a faster car and they have allot of aftermarket stuff.

New question: Does the electronic dizy have better performance than a points dizy?

theres an electronic dizzy for sale over here, unknown condition, and i want to know if theres much that can go wrong with these suckers and if $75aus is resonable? Also do the electonic dizzies have a better advance curves?

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Yeh and use feflon tape on the treads. Skip gave me the idea to do this and he recons it works well but I am yet to put it on, lazyness and work mainly.

Bro You can make an inline fuel return by going to a gas refiller e.g. BOC and buy a t peice, two 5/16 barbs and the smallest barb they have. Solder the end of the small one shut and drill it out with a 1mm hole. And youll need some hose camps aswell. I can take a photo if you need it just send me your email addy.

You would have to find the electirc moter that opens and closes the headlights then find which wire which has 12v running thru it when there opening. Cut this wire and solder some twin core cable up to each end then run this cable up to the console and solder on a switch. Only do it one side tho . Turn this switch off before you turn on your light and it should wink. I believe there should be 3 wires running to the motor one for up, one for down and a neutral. Just a guess tho

i think i have sent you an email through the forum, if you dont get it my email my adress is dilatorix@hotmail.com. btw any sugestions would be greatly apreciated.

Skip do you know if the one piece fuel inlet and return fitting for the hitachi carbi uses the same thread as holley's or would i have to get it rethreaded?

I am talking about my holley180 that came with no fuel return fitted. I took it to a holley shop and they said it should be ok without one. It has been good but this was with the stock filter with the fuel return up the top of the filter with the old line that used to goto the carb just kinked off. I am about to fit an inline filter and cap the fuel return line on the firewall. Will this damage my fuel pump or carb at idle? Or should i stick with the stock configuration?

i dunno much about the ea82 but my ea81 is leaking arround the coolent crossover hoses. they have an od of about 10mm. i only noticed the leak after i cleaned out all the hoses when i put the holley on. They go from back of t-stat housing to the block. Under the carbi there is one that goes from the inlet manifold to the pipe where the heater core gets its coolent. They leak cause there steel barbs and they start rust and expand the hose.

its the automatics trannies that need the cooler

i dont think the carb will handle the boost. they where manufactured to have vacuum in then and never possitive pressure (boost). you could give it a try, but a better idea would to convert to efi. Get a spfi harness, manifold and an aftermarket ecu. Hook it all up. Also the problem with turboing a N/A block is the high compression ratio this will make you ping when you try to dial up the boost.

yeh the brat/brumby stayed ea81 body style and never got the sharper corners of the ea82 and was made upto 1994. Oh yeh and there the previous gen body styles aswell.

from what i have heard the gear should start out almost like a sphere with the clogs cut out but then the other gear wears into it and make its into and apple core shape.

Yeh you know that smell when an appliance has just burnt out, thats ozone.

Yeh in the winter I get the cat paw prints on the hood too. Just another place for the cat to bask.

Bit offtopic but a catless exhuast does produce chemiicals that react to from ozone (03) But its pretty deadly stuff for us if its not a few miles up in the sky gettin rid of uv.

Whats the security problem how is someone going to know what number goes with your car without looking at your keys.

yeap you can pretty big project tho this should get you started http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=16

Well I only spoke to two people and neither of them umed or ared when i asked of the ea81t. So i guess you learn something everyday.

The first shop i rang didnot have one but the lady asked one of the tech. and he said the ea82t sensor was different. At city subaru ph: 07 3633 6666 (you need aussie country code aswell) they said they had the knock sensor in stock for $136.45 but there 'subaru teck' was off today but was he pretty sure it was the right part. the no. is 22060aa070. Yeh he said ring back on Monday to be sure its the right part as the teck will be back then. The bloke also said they can still get this stuff from japan so he didnot know what was up with the new zealand dealerships.