BobBrumby

yeh its ecu controlled to stop the turbo from overboosting in stock format. i have heard its easy to remove the fuel cut on early turbo's for some reason. if your want to crank up the boost a top mount intercooler will protect your engine. There are few people on this board with intercooled ea81t/ea82t using ej20t intercoolers or rx7's. Normally you can pick up a recirculating blow off valve with the subaru intercoolers. These are better than the atmosphere dumping ones as the air that gets dumped, making the pissst sound, is still thought to be going through the engine by the computer so it still adds the petty for that lost air, making for a rich mixture at the pissst time. On larger engine they are alright but for your 1.8L a recirc. one is best.

dam i should i read ur post properly before writeing a post on a diff situation

i think they only came in early gen brumby/brats and were an optional extra so there was not that many sold and you would lucky to find some.

the easiest way would be to get a nikko, 2 mobile phones and mate with a newish car. get him to do a certain speed on a 4 lane road and mark when ur level with him. also could use a gps but wheres the fun it that?

how could i get the money to you from the land down under?

jeez nice paint, wot gen brat/brumby is that? the seats look a good match too. cause santa dropped round early for you i supose you wern't naughty this year

yeh i am from brissie

baron what model car was this mazda?

welcome to the board baron, i have seen you arround on the byb fourums lately. i prefer usmb as is has heaps more messages/day then the aussie one.

wastegates only open when there is to much exhuast to go through the turbo (at high rmp) so some exhuast bypasses tha turbo and just goes back through the exhuast as not to damage your it. so no i dont even think wastegates have vac lines and even if it did it would require a different "signal".

the thermostat is in the housing where the top radiator hose connects to engine. as to keeping your engine cool this means within specs of the engine and not under. the idea behind a t-stat is that no heat is exchanged when the car is warming up so it all goes into the block and once its at bit above opterating temperature it opens letting fluid flow then closes when it gets too cool. without one the car would take longer to warm up (i possible) and always run colder than its sposed to. yeh and cold engines use more petrol, you know like how you need a choke for cold starts. yeh that means a dodgy/missing t-stat, if it was cold.

i think rx's and xt6 have constant fwd and some even have a locker for the centre diffs. but they have diff spline count on the hub i think.

is there allot of slop in your shifter? mine ground a fair bit until i replaced a little ruber washer at the bottom of the shifter in the cup on the tranny. The metal on metal may be the shifter pivot bolt's head (where is connects to fork) scrapping down the tranny becuase it needs more angle once the rubber washer has been destroyed as the bottom can now move abot. Oh yeh in my cousin's brumby the last person working on it put the bolt back in the wrong way so there had been like a decent trench wore out of the side of the tranny where the threaded end had been scrapping down. oh yeh this had better be an ea81

note this wont fix everyones ticking, the ticking is caused by having not enough oil pressure to operate the lifters properly or permently damaged lifters. Low oil pressure going to the lifters can be caused by two things, the one stated above and can also be caused by blockages in the passages feeding oil to the lifters. So if you want to get rid of your ticking i suggest you use an oil additive e.g. mmo, first just incase its just the oil galleries that are blocked as this takes all of 2 seconds to do. If the mmo doesnot work you can be pretty sure its your oil pump seals and short of that its failed hydrolic lifters.

Welcome to the Board, Good to hear you've read a bit before you started asking some questions. WRX, yes there are a few ej20t getting arround in old soobs now most of these are brumby\brats of what i seen but these cars have the same fronts from the front of the doors forward. This is a pretty big conversion as to take full adavntage of the ej you need the swap in the wrx driveline aswell e.g. g.box + diff. I have seen under the hood of a wrecked wrx brumby and it was tight. Not much clearence at frame rails and it is hard to see any of the ground below unlike the old eaXX. Fmic on ur rx is as easy as cuttin a whole and bolting the sucker before the rad, duh. then gettin some piping, fexiable tubes (so your intercooler doesnot crack when your engine shakes) and do some plubling, from your turbo to ur intercooler and then from it to your intake. eh not not so easy? Most of the intercooled folks on the board use top mounted incoolers as these have less pipes to run so are therefore easier to install and have less turbo lag. A drawback is tmic's get less airflow. And blow off valves dont get a vrooom piiistt one cause it dumps air that your computer thinks is still going to the engine and make it run rich on revy gear changes. A recirculating one is better as this "plumbs back" into the system and your wont run rich. Wowa i think this is mah longest post ever.

yeh the 2nd grill with the crome biddy on the edge and the round indicators look 100 times better than the first grill, just my 2 cents and dont forget the 4wd badge. oh yeh coke is pretty good at polishing chome .

dont remove the mounts from the sub frames and just unscrew the 4 10mm bolts and 2 10mm nuts on the vertical part of the bumper. there are also like a 2 10mm bolt that hold tips onto the 1/4 pannel. other than the oil and dont remove the mounts unless they are damaged, as they have a bit of adjustment in them and is a bit of a beech setting it up so only do if its absolutly nessacerry.

i duno if its "RON" but it says 98 octain on the bp super dooper permuim in aus. yeh i duno what units octain is measured in, but for y'all love of imperial measurements over there and it being metric here, maybe this screwed the comparison.

haha our premium is 98 octain in some places and like 94 octain standard i think

cis subaru no i dont beleive its a carter webber as its got hitachi written all over it and is 2bbl but it did have a smaller base than the adapter plate i got with the carb. Luckily i had a "big mouth" intake that fitted the adapter plate on a spare engine, even if it did have a carb stud tread stripped

oi bro, if you live in brisbane there is a shop out near straphpine (actually a holley shop) but holley make a discissed webber called a holley 180. they can order adapter plates from redline. be sure you get the right size as there are 2 diff sizes of hitachi base. heres an alright link that sortof explains howto make one: http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/weber_to_subaru.htm

if its n/a a 36/32 webber carb makes a big difference down low. After youve done both the intake and exhuast the next step would be engine internals a cam and maybe a mild port while your in there. you could even bump up the compression a bit for some good gains. as ea81 are used a fair bit a kit airplanes theres a few shops arround like ram perforance that sell performance aftermarket parts for ea81's but this stuff does cost a fair bit of dough. and also you may have an ea82 as you didnot say what year car you drive. if your looking for a racer maybe you should be savingn your money for an ej22, ej25 or ej20t halfcut as all these engines would destoy a worked ea81.

you dont need a in inlet manifold if you can find a redline adapter plate. remember the ea81 have two different carb base sizes, i think you would have the big mouth one.

rear engine 4x4?

you can drive straight on tarmac wif 4wd enganged it just the cornering thats not fun, so before u get to your first conrner take her out of 4wd.