BobBrumby

On ea81's the nut can undo off the hi/lo rod and make it run in 4x4 hi when the lever indicates it should be in 2wd hi. I duno if ea82 box's have the same sort of linkage. Oh yeh is this a full time 4x4 or a dual range? Also do you have centre locking diff as if this was enganged on the pavement it would cause a bind (i think). Some more info would help.

make sure you use heaps of grease cause not enough will leave it noisy. What happened my 1st time.

After I learnt to do the one nut way to seperate ball joint from lower control arm, it only took me about an hour to service my front doj whilst in the car. The previous day it took about twice the time cause I thought i had to undo radius rod bolts and sway bar mount. To add insult to injury this was a real noisy joint. A puller is nice to have too. But this is front so...

Webber, cam, zorst, accel, what else would he be running?

hehe i see in the eg33 and prob ej's subaru stopped putting a gudgeon/wrist pin plug in under the waterpump, I am still fighting that on my ea81 rusting under there since the colourful 80s.

i assume these 150hp ea81's are ea81t's?

Jeeez allot of photos, what did u do to the cracked heads? Yeh is that a ghetto porting job, it look a little rough?

yeh i cant understand cause last time i rebuilt this doj it work great just a reallly faint version of the same noise i got now. Should the bearings fall out of the race pretty easily, cause mine do? I remember when I was puttin it back together the first time they kept on dropping out. But this time only I only dropped one and I was doing it without any help, hows your hand/leg coordination?. Yeh I did rebuild this one like before, on the car, so I didnot have to take the pins out of the cups on the axle stubs and then buy new pins. Whack somemore grease in, or try a new joint?

i have got the same problem but mine hppened after i put a new boot on the doj. You could sortof hear this sound brfore but was allot quieter. Did i just not pack enough grease into the joint or has some damage been done to the joint?

where might i get one of these anti-dieseling valve for my holley? Like are they pretty common? I might ring this this holley performance shop see whats up. You got any idead of what cars this vavle was on?

yeh my (webber actually hooley 180) is heaps better than hitachi. i get about 75 extra km on a tank now. I have a little problem with dieseling but now i have learn to nearly stall it whe i turn off the keys. I also couldnot close the hood with the air filter i bough so I cut 2 8" plates of ally and cut out carb top shape, drilled a few wholes and bolted it them down arround the filter. Who says a street sign cant make a pimpin intake

my brumby came with the strips included with only minor dents

nah i think the only differnece between the disty curves is between 4x4 and FWD, the fwd is ment to have a better curve but this has been refuted by many members.

hehe i rang up a dealership for a rubber d.o.j. boot and he came back saing that its would be $850. I quesioned this and asked $850 for a boot, he laughed and said oh i thought u wanted a whole axle jeez, but even so $850 for an axle. sorry to hijack

oh yeh those windscreen bearings make all the differencer

nah the whole was drilled in the edge of the plug so the allen key indent is still allrite.

Ok the gudgeon plug that its under the waterpump has rusted into its hole. I have destroyed a 3/4" to 1/2" drive adapter trying to undo it with a 2 foot breaker bar with piece of pipe to make it like 5 foot. Now the allen key can turn a little in the hole but it not completely destroyed yet. My dad then suggested I drill a whole in it and try and break the seal with a punch and hammer to no avail. We got a blow torch on it then cooled it with water with no results. Hmm should I try to get it a touch hotter before cooling it?

bump i really want to see a photo or two

its says in my book not fsm 0.5mm is the machining limit and 0.05mm is the warpage limit. Anyone verify/reject?

I have a bit of surface rust in one of the cylinder of my block as when i pulled it down it was 1/4 full of brown flakey rust looking stuff. I thought the steel sleave had totally rusted out below the "waterline" but i supose it must have been leaves or dirt of some kind cause it can turn now. Only problem is that if that piston is not at top or bottom of stroke its really hard to turn it over by hand. If I used a fine grit wet n dry sand paper in there and got rid of the rust in a circular parten would my compression be screwed in that cylinder. I started pulling it down cause I got bored on my hollidays and dont want to spend much $$$ at a machine shop. I have one straight head and one that warped by imbertween 0.15mm and 0.2mm. Whats it cost over in america to grind head and do you have to do them in pairs, even if one still good. Or should i scrap this engine? calebz i got the measurment wrong the first time

spfi pistons bolt in and make an ea81's ratio 9.5:1, do you have any photo's of your engine bay? And i thought for forced induction a lower ratio is better?

yeh 9.5:1 is the spfi compression ratio

like the not flywheel side of the flywheel housing is the back end part of the crankcase. i think i have come to understand that ea82's and ej's have their gudgeon plugs in the flywheel housing. so for an ea81 you take off the housing instead of taking out the other 2 plugs in the housing for ea82/ej.

yeh welcome to the board, easiest way is to get a test lamp from an auto repair shop. clip one end to the body of the car and probe wires with the other end. when the light lights up its gettin 12v. so leave the keys out and u goto find a wire that has power the whole time (perminent power). switch the key acc now there should be another wire that only lights up when the key is on acc or higher. there is also another wire that that gets 12v when your starting your car and tell the radio to turn off for a while so the starter is the only thing draining the battery. you also need a ground just to somewhere on the body for the sterio. You might also want to replace the speaker wiring as this has its ground on the car, so only one wire is needed to each speaker, but make for dodgier sound and cheaper production. thinks that everything

not till i get a straight head . yeh it wasnot my fault cause there was "blow-by", think thats it anyway, between the cycinders on that head. So it was obvisouly running for little while with the warped head before I had my way with it.