BobBrumby

when u take i for a test drive get the steering close to lock on each side and see if any are clicking form the cv's. oh yeh if the gearshift feels a bit sloppy that can be with a new bush.

also check the two small coolent crossover pipes, one starts from the back of the t-stat housing and goes to block and the other goes from base of carb on manifold to lower radiator line.

so american ea81's have 4 gudgeon plugs? nah its just that 14mm allen key is not a standard size in Australia and no good tool shops are open on Sundays (today) or Public Holidays (tomorow) so i have to wait till Tuesday to get one. So I was trying to make do with what I had and failed miserably. Yeh those photos where taken with the flywheel housing off and engine up side down heh and i even lined up the pins for ya. Damn its a beetch trying to upload photos resizing n such.

heh easier said then done these things have been in there 20+ years and they want to stay. tried grinding flat spots in a bolt for vice grips but it shreared. Tried lock nut but we only had odd nuts and bolts from a honda ct110 shreaded the tread off the nut. was about to the destroy the 14mm hex head on my puller but i decided to wait till tues when the tradie tool shops open again. yeh i am sure i can take a photo if ya want. Well on the aussie ea81 anyhow and any oil that does come out the gudgeon holes can just go down into the oil pan which bolts to the bottom of the fly wheel housing.

hmm ok one of the cylinders is pretty cactus anyway, like leaves or something found it way into one filling it 1/4 with crusty stuff. now its got a bit of rust and is hard to turn the crank when that cylinder has its piston not at the top or at the bottom of the stroke. oh well i am just practising for my working motor. yeh i believe this ones head gaskets let go before it was left in a field as the mating surfaces where all dirty.

jeez i didnot realize there was loosening sequnce for the heads. would i have warped them, if they where straight in the first place, if i undid them any which way?

for your imformation there is only 2 plugs on the water pump side and just holes on the other hehe just nitpicking but thanks for the quick replies

any verdict true or false, or else i will need to buy an allen to get out the gudgeon/wrist pin covers?

i have since gotten off the flywheel and crank pully and oil sump. I am gunna wait till next year to split the crank case, hehe tomorrow, happy new years eve. Any one got any tips for splittin the case?

i found u can put a screw driver thru those small angled holes in the flywheel thru the hole in the bellhousing where you check the timing, locking it off. i havnot been able to put this into action as my dad is having a siesta (afternoon rest) and theres not oneelse to hold the engine.

so they aint reverse thread? and you dont jam something to stop the flywheel from turning.

I am currently pulling down my spare ea81 and this mourning i have stripped off the heads and all the other stuff. I am just stuck cause i cant lock the flywheel off to remove it and the crank pully, is there an uber trick i cant think off? Hehe at leats with all the bashing on the socket wrench on the flywheel i got my pistons unseased in the cycinders . I am surprised how easily it was going as this is my first big engine pulldown and hopeully rebuild depending on condition of internals.

the radiator fluid is going into the auto oil cooler on rad?, bit of a longshot tho

i supose it would make the bend close to a mandrell, btw u would want a liguid that didnot expand any when heated.

Welcome to the Board, yeh they should as heaps of people use the ea82 5spd in ea81s. but in the manual conversion u have to use the ea81 flywheel n clutch so i duno what you would need for an auto.

yeh i think you need the diizzy from the spfi aswell, and it was a while ago that i read it but i think it needs some minor modifcation to a tab that hangs off and interfers with the carb block. it should be a bit quicker than a carb engine and better fuel eccon. but not as good as a spfi with 9.5:1 compression.

yeh i have heard that fuel pumps can make bad noise b4 they go. you could try hooking up a 12volt line to the fuel pump and see if you get the same noise. but yeh thats the only elec motor back there cept maybe rear wipers

yeh i have heard that fuel pumps can make bad noise b4 they go. you could try hooking up a 12volt line to the fuel pump and see if you get the same noise

yeh any volume of space you can get rid of between the turbo and the engine inlet will decrease lag.

ooo their sooo shinny

as craig said make sure you clean the mateing surfaces good and make sure the t-stat doesnot fall out of its notch when u are puting the housing on, if it does and you touque it down you will snap one of the bolt "lugs" off the housing. p.s. i know from experience. i actually started the car and it spewed coolent onto the wrindscreen when i reved it. We decided to just tighten it up a bit more and snapped it. We should have taken it off and seen the t-stat wasnot sitting right. Ohwell, I guess hien sight would be bliss.

yeh i needed a similar experience with my car to get a kick of mechanic into me. but, yeh i rather enjoy tinkering now and i am now rebuilding a 2 stroke brush cutter motor for the heck of it. jeez youll save heaps of money wrenching it yourself and basically the only thing thats goes is constant velocity joints, radiators, head gaskets ( but the head gasket is cause u didnot change the rad in time) and timing belts for ea82's. If you change your fluids regularly your car could well last to 300k.

when i took a look down one the pcv hoses it had some milky stuff init. but i guess this was from the week of rain we had b4 i checked it

i would prefer to push my subie than drive a honda. heh hopefully ill never have to proove that.

a blow off valve has nothing to do with the ecu and everything to do with the turbo. becuase turbos work on the exhuast at high rpm there is more exhuast so they compress more air than at low rmp. when you change gears your rmp drops and therefore the turbo compresses less air. but right before your change it was high pressure. this causes the high pressure to go back toward the lower pressure, back the wrong way through the turbo and slows the spool even more on a gear change\release of throttle. a recirc b.o.v. plumbs this high pressure air back to the correct side of the turbo so its going towords the engine now and now increasing the turbo spool. this is what i come to believe from various posts but i am no turbo expert