BobBrumby

jeez talk about luck out of the blue i decided to check how easy it was to do on my spare 4spd tranny and now not 3 hours later i am reading a post asking about it. A cold chissle and a rubber mallet worked fine for me but be carefull if you want to reuse the retainer. Inside there is a slightly conical pipe inside that gets crammed arround the bearing. Just buy wiggleing the axle stub this thing fell right out, it only goes in one way but its pretty obvious. It only took me about 15 minutes total to open look the close and this was in a pretty confined space in my parts pile so doing with your tranny in should be a breeze.

the bushings and metal tube in the innner end of the controll arms and the rubber bushings at the rearmost part of the radius rods.

Yeh I have had my holley for a while and low to mid range is heaps better than the ****achi but after about 4600rmp does not pull at all and seems to go a little slower. I remember GD sayin his ea81 made good tourque out to 5500rpm. Could my fuel pump thats original i think not be putting out enough pressure? What is the stock pressure meant to taking in mind no fuel return on holley's. Or maybe bump the timing forwar a bit?

you use a relay?

Because a webber is a simple carb it doesnot need all the junk that the hitachi needs. Remove everthing except the brake booster line, vac selector line for heater runing thru firewall, vac advance for your dizzy (this comes off a port on the webber), you can plug the air injection system (lets oxygen into your cat), positive crankase ventiation system (can be simpilied) and you can remove the charcoal canister if you wont. Btw this is from memery from my ea81 but I think they have pretty much the same junk. Others should chime in if i have got something wrong.

halfway up the veiwing glass?

the main problems wif turboing a n/a engine is the cams and compression ratio. With the low km block the ratio is 8.5:1 instead of like 7:1 i think of the turbo engine, with a high comp ratio you cant run asmuch boost without detonation. With the cams, n/a engines have valve overlap so some exhuast gets sucked out as petrol + air is going into the cylinder. If you had this setup with a turbo it would just blow the petrol charge out the exhuast untill the exhuast valve closes.

yeh all the rad and coolers where screwed but the block looks untouched. One of the belts has ripped and the fuse box has been obliterated but thats about all thats wrong with the engine. Btw how many horses does a an ej20t put down stock? Yeh and the poor sucker only did the conversion in late 2002 says the compliance plate. Oh yeh its got like a 3 inch pipe a bit back from the turbo:burnout:. It has like a 1 inch lift, would i need this extra inch when I am swaping into my Brumby ? Hopefully mine stays on the road little longer than his did .

hehe went to check it out today under the hood is an ej20t wrx auto and 4.44 rear vlsd. Its got the brakes i wont. But i think this brumby has just gone out of my pricew range, Unless noone knows its there and im the only bidder.

similarly if you pull the ecu out of an spfi or mpfi soob it wont run

yeh sorry to hijack but could a brumby tow another brumby an a flat back trailer?

heh looks nice, if its not too much hassle could you take a closeup pic of the radius rod heim joints? Hpw long did it take to make the heim jointed lower controll arm? btw the dual exhuast looks pretty snazzy too!

1990 brumby heh a bit piddly but 270,000 KM. No lifter ticking just a ratley hotdog muffler after 3k rpm. ford econovan (mazda rebadge) 300,000 Km suzuki sierra 375,000 Km

yeh i hope its a quad as i need some of the driverside underbody to weld onto my brumby from my bingle in the rain

yeh i hope its not a convesion but i will go and look at it on monday. about the GL its got Subaru GL on the back http://www.fowles.com.au/photo.aspx?m=1639124&n=2&s=F . And i was tihnkin of about $300 too if its got most of the parts i want.

basically turbo 4x4 front axles have 25 spines on the tranny stubs and Na have 23. btw 2wd have smaller joints i think. Apprently the hub side of the axle is the same thruout. And rear axles are the same regardless of turbo/Na. And I think ea82 axles are a little longer than ea81.

I have red in a post that the fuel pump gets power when the altinator is spining with the key in the on possition. Just run a wire from the pos side of battery to the non ground wire on the fuel pump to test it.

Here is a front damaged 1983 Brumby going up for auction in Australia: http://www.fowles.com.au/auctions/lot.aspx?auction=DQ442&number=1639124 I few questions: Even tho its a GL it looks to be the single headlight, is this correct? What ratio is the 4SPD 4x4 AUTOMATIC tranny, hehe i want lsd? And what do you think is a good price, as i wont it for its rear discs, lsd(obvisously) and a turbo motor would also be welcome in my brumby if its still good? I will probably use some of the GL electronics aswell e.g. int. windscreen wippers, elec windows, it says its got a sterio and maybe tilt steering column.

have you removed the ignition from the car yet? Cause that what they talking about the headless bolts. I guess its a security feature so its a little harder to put a legit ignition in a stolen car. But this seems like a really poor effort on Subaru as its a piece of piss to get out after some thinking.

nah my holley 180 a knockoff of a webber is supplied fine by the stock fuel pump.

Yeh it would decrease spool time over stock cause the exhuast flows better and doesnot slow because of cats or one side of the exhuast is being dumped into the other at 90 degrees. See in that header they merge just b4 the turbo flange and are at about 45degrees so its allot better than stock.

You can either drop the tranny or pull the engine. From posts most people prefer to pull the engine so they can do the belts and some gaskets while there at it and also you also dont have to do it all from under the car. I have also heard of people taking out their radiator and pulling the engine forward so theres gap you can work imbertween.

but the once the purge valve opens on the charcoal coal canister wouldnot this be similar to a vacuum leak? Btw i have dumped mine but dont know where to put the fuel tank vent and bowl vent

The rattle you descrebed maybe comming from the tank pressure build up in the tank. There should be a line running from the top of your tank to the Charcoal Canister so it can vent. If you know what the canister looks like try blowing down the tank vent line and see if its blocked, boht ways (to canister/to tank). Btw how long does it rattle after shutting down the engine and does it stop if you take off your filler cap? I supose there would be no point checking the cansiter if the rattle doesnot stop by taking the filler cap off.

a test lamp is invaluable for installing sterios. There should also be a wire that gives 12volts when your key is in the start postion this is the wire that causes your music to stop when u start up your engine so the starer is the only thinng draining power.