BobBrumby

would the same thing happen on ea81 boxes? As i often leave my hand there between 1st and 2nd.

the transfer case is already in the tranny so that one to cross off your list. here's a tutourial in the usmb repair & mod section (in the grey bars just above): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=16

maybe hes a new gen and it the connector so you dont fry you centre clutch when using your spare?

i thought all turbos came wif auto's?

yeh my friend was saying with old leaded cars (well his vc commodoor) if you put a spark plug just before the end of the tailpipe and hook up to a coil a couple of feet of fire should spew from the arse of it

On ea81 manifold one of the carb stud was the hardest to remove. after lots of wd40 and trying i got the stud but must have taken some of the thread wif it. With still some thread left in it i intalled the new bent studs for the holley and adapter plate. while tighening the nut drown on the stud it was kindof tight but then it stripped again. Is there any apoxies on you can that can glue the stud in? I have been driving it with the stripped thread and seems alrite. im gettin 350km to a tank, city driving beating my old hitachi by about 50km:brow: . And thats with me tuning it but i am gunna take it to a mech soon. Will 3 studs hold a holley downs sufficiently?

i have a 4sp 4x4 spare i could measure that if u want

they seats look pimpin and bodies nices as well. looks like a keeper

i got two headlights and no tach in the dash in my BRUMBY so i duno if it any different

before i changed out the original radiator with about 265k km on it was reading about 1/2 and a bit above where driving normally. i got a new generic rad and a lower tstat and it norm reads 1/4-1/3 but closer to a 1/2 when in traffic. this is in a pretty hot state of australia, 35c plus in summer is not uncommon thats 95F i think. But those readings aint from a really hot day its still spring over here and this is its first summer but its heaps better than old one so "she'll be right".

is sea foam just a water disperent like wd40 over here?

i have heard delta cams seems to be the go, i think they have 3 grinds for our verhicles

I have a leak coming from where this small coolent attached to the top of the engine block as there is a healthy green colour there. This line is positioned just behind the dizzy on my ea81 brumby and it runs from the inlet manifold (opposite t-stat housing) to the top of the block about 5cm to the right. It is less than 1cm in outer diameter about probably 1/3 of an inch. I am just curious what this sucker does? There is a similar thing on the other side but it comes from the place the hitachi gets the coolent so it can disengage\engage the choke and has a valve of some sort wif a bolt head poking out, i can sortof remember from a previous post someone saying this valve controls the volume of coolent that can flow past the hitachi base therefore affecting the choke but im not sure if its right. With my new holley should i take out the valve and replace with coolent line so there is no pressure building up under the adapter plate? Cheers

you might also wanna take a look at the byb fourums they have heaps of ej conversion q's and a's. http://www.ausubaru.com/ausubaru/html/modules.php?name=Forums

are the turbo\NA doj the same size ? Cause if thats true could u just use NA doj outer cup with the turbo axles\doj midle-race and bearings. Do turbo backends e.g. lsd's have the same spline count as NA rear diffs?

yeh when replaced the "doughnut ring" in my brumby the metal shim inside the other bushing was missing as was the netral return spring from the previous owners attepmt to fix it, i got a spare and bought a new spring. I was really happy happy wif the results as up and down movemont feels nomal now but to fix all the side ways slack you need to put a cut down the linkage where the stub comes out of the tranny and put a bolt the were the pin was. there a picture on general disorders website.

the qld on the plates means queensland which is a state in australia. So did Stacy live in the land of oz? You saying Brat makes me think you speakin of an american Brumby not an Australian:)

hehe i poested this like a week ago under "need inspiration for ej conversion?"

I finished off doing my first c.v. today, finishing cause noone was home a 5:30 yesterday to pull on the hub when i was feeding the axle into the car . Instead of taking the outer d.o.j. cup off the tranny I dismantled the d.o.j. while still on the car then withdrew the axle from the car, a bit greasy but saved me buying a new pin and knocking the old one out. I changed out the c.v. and the doj with a used ntn one i had lying around. The doj that i took out of the car would jam and wouldnot move freely but the bearings are held in the cage allot tighter the the one i put back in. As i discovered as they sometimes fell out as i was puttin it in. How do you tell a worn doj? But the good thing now is theres no clacking on right hand turns even at lock .

Is there any way to get the grease down below the bearings in the constant velocity joint? I been tryin to squeese it in wif my fingers then rotating the joint but i dont know how far its gone down.

cheers all i need now is a 36mm socket and ill be set to change out the clanky cv with hopefully a better one

jeeez here in australia we have lpg bowsers at nearly all petty stations:)

I have a used NTN cv and its looks in good shape, it still has the green paint near the cv. As the title says: Is NTN the stock cv brand for soobs?

yeh the boot aint ripped at all and the grease does'not seem to "glitter" much in direct sunlight. One more question is NTN the brand of the original scooby cv as some shop told me?

When i bought my brumby they chucked in all the spare parts they had as they no longer would have any use for them. I got an engine n stuff but more importingly i got 2 complete axles, the car that was parted was an ea81 wagon found in padock not running and aqquired for free but its a pitty they wound back the odometer in the dash cluster that came wif the parts so i have no idea how km's (miles) its done:banghead: . Now my driverside cv has been making bad clunking noises on right turns when a bit of power is apllied, worse as you get closer to lock. I assume this is my cv from decriptions in previous posts. I took the the rubber boots off one of my spare axles and cleaned the excess grease away. The bearings aint pitted and the joint looks pretty nice but as this is my first look at a cv and i have nothing to compare it to. 1. How do tell if a cv is still good? 2. As these might be rear axles, are they different from the front? 3. Is there any way by looking at an axle to tell if its a genuine soob cv?