BobBrumby

any pics?

Btw: aussie 4spds are 3.7 final ratio, well thats what i have in the back of it now. Is lsd the bolt on? e.g. same shaft spine count and hanging possitions to a brumby?

How many km's did your rear diff have on it before dieing, did you ever thrash it much in 4wd and then later in rwd?

I am thinking of getting a 3.7 lsd for my brumby and theres one up for sale for $aus 400. I wont to convert to rwd for a while and need to know if i need a rear sway bar? Also what does a swaybar do? I think the price is a little high so I am gunna leave him a week and give him another offer. Can you rebuild these lsd other than the bearings and gaskets?

Does this dizzy still spin cause if the bearings in it where about to seeze they might chew it up, just a guess tho.

I heard the full time 4wd trannies only came in the turbos so someone may have chaned it over before you got the car. If you could find some turbos in the jy you might be in luck but you would already have to be in luck to find one, so your chances aint great. Could also try a dealer.

You actually just remove one shaft and then ponnd the cvj stub away from the doj and once you have seperate the shaft from the stub play with joint till you get all balls out then remove cage. Insert this stub back into the hub and tighten to 145 ft/pounds. Run your car in 4wd and you will have a rwd subie. Dunno about leagality but in no way does the axles support your suspension system. Have a look at how the doj works and you will see why.

I thought there where heaps of ea81's with ea82 5 spd gear boxes, so why could not you mate an ea82t up to ea81 tranny? Something to do with the flywheel? Yeh intercoolers are very beneficial, as when a turbo compress air the heat rises proporal to the pressure. So if you want to increase boost a intercooler is wise for both performance and long livity of your engine.

Could you post some pics of the work when its done, cause I was thinking of doing the same thing when i was instaling my holley?

I supose ever since i have had my car the rear right 36mm castle has been loose. I thought it was just bearing noise so I had put it off but today when I was geting enthusiastic about doing some repairs, i thied to wiggle the wheel and to my horror it did. The wierd thing is that it had a split pin thru it so the P.O. must not have tightened last time brakes where done. So i thighened it down. Will these wheel bearings be screwed now? Likely to be any hub damage?

yes once this new clutch has worn to no adjustament ill either replace the cable or put in a spacer. Cheers for the help

I just finsihed changing my clutch as the old one had no adjustment left, when I looked the old plate there still seemed to have little bit of depth in it probably 3mm. With the new clutch in using the old cable i only have less then half an inch of adjustment!!! This would most probably be due to a stretched clutch cable or a flywheel that has been worn too much?

Yes you should push the clutch fully to the ground as your shifting. Down shifting on decell saves your brakes and arround corners it will put you in a better rmp range when you exit the corner. With our little engines you need to keep em revin as they make better power there.

My first clutch change went pretty much without hassle. I got in and did all the seals but no pumps, maybe another weekend. Found the centre head nut on driverside to be finger tight:slobber: and tighened it down. I think my cable is a bit stretched as with my new clutch there is jack all adjustment and the old plate still had a little bit to it. Boy did that give me a scare when i had no feel at the pedal, thought I put the plate in the wrong way round, but tighened down the cable and got some clutch. The only problem with knowing now how to do a clutch is our old suzuki sieera needs a clutch badly and mum recons I should give it a go:rolleyes:. One last thing, We put wood peices across the engine x-member and lower radiator support bar to rest the engine on when we were putting it back. We then slid the jack under jacked it up and took out the bits of wood. Less change for damage to engine and easier for us. Just thought i would add. OH yeh and thanks for all the sugestions.

ooo eee the engine is out and sitting a couple of metres infront of the engine bay. i would suggest that you do hire/buy a lift as lifting it manually is a bit touch and go . But yeh it seemed to go pretty easily. Found out the top nut on my engine mounts where loose as a goose, this normal? PS thanks for all your help all going well ill have the car back on the road tomorow. Btw; all the gaskets and clutch kit cams out to about $500. Might leave a few items off the list when i get there.

What they mean by runinng the engine running on water is you split water with two charged plates to make hydrogen to use in your car. I remember doing this in chemistry, you would hold a test tube upsidedown over it, cause its lighter it rises into it, then light it with a match. It makes a loud pop. Then when you burn this in your engine your exhuast is H20 vapour. But this isnot very energy efficient as using hydrogen in power cell for electic cars.

bump use locktite or not, i need to know soon?

i think the front and rear main seals are in the inside one of the right valve cover gasket. the oil pump gasket is inside the left valve cover gasket but i think you need a "mickey mouse gasket" for the oil pump aswell, on second thought some of those o rings inside the head gasket may be used in the ea71. sorry but i dont reconnize any of the others.

should i locktite all the clutch to flywheel, flywheel to engine and crank pulley bolts? Like the strongest locktite there?

noy werth it? all it take is a couple of holes (if they werenot there in the first place) and 10 seconds to attach the spring.

oil pan, front main, the seals for the bolts on valve covers, atleast reseal oil pump/replace oil pump, maybe a new water pump

A couple of questions: Are the studs that come out of the bottom of the engine bellhousing the same length as the input shaft for the tranny? e.g. once the studs are clear of the their holes in the trannny will the input shaft be out of the clutch assy. And do you recon a bit of timber with two ropes slung arround each head and a guy on each end with another guy manuvering would be enough to get it out of the engine bay?

nah the differing spline counts is on the tranny stubs.

Have you undone the like the bolt which clamps it inplace on thew wb housing? B.t.w. what u call a wb housing is actuallly called the steering knuckle.

So when removing the enginge you put the jack under the engine? If i take out the tranny mounts one at a time and then install the new one should this stop any missalinment issues? Its an ea81 but i supose its all pretty much the same