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Everything posted by frogstar7055
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4EAT Diff Lock Switch
frogstar7055 replied to eulogious's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I've done this mod and have only used it a few times. It definitely works,instant traction front and rear. And in first and second you get the same result but not until 75% wot. That's why you can do circles in first without it binding like when it's locked up. -
Dropping the whole drive train you still have to put some offset in.
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+1,easiest way to do it.
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If your talking about wooping thru the desert high speed I'd make wider stance lower A arms for the front with longer travel struts and solid rear axle with a four link suspension. It's definitely doable.
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99lego lifted at last.....bumper too! now with STRUT BLOCK PICS!
frogstar7055 replied to 99lego's topic in Off Road
Nice bumper. I did the strut blocks but no drivetrain drop. Has worked great except for some bind in the rear trailing arms,made drop mounts and it solved the problem. Really like the bumper,did you make provisions for a winch? -
Very cool and a good job as well. I love the fact that to do these things to a Subaru you gotta make,can't buy it off the shelf. Weld on Brother.
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Which LSD to use - can they be tested?
frogstar7055 replied to idosubaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I never had a problem with it,course that was 20 years ago. -
If it's not pavement,it's off road.
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EA81 transplant into a '59 Beetle
frogstar7055 replied to spikedbeetle's topic in Subaru Transplants
Very cool. -
This will fix your CEL code P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold problem. 1.Go to your local auto parts store and buy this: 2. With a 1/2" drill bit, bore out only ONE of the anti-foulers in order to accommodate the size of the o2 sensor head. Screw in your o2 sensor into the bored out anti-fouler then screw that into the other untouched anti-fouler and voila! Here is a pic with this setup: Stole this tip from the Wild World Web.
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That box is the shock sensor for the alarm,unlike the ECU it's sealed tighter that a frogs a$$. Muddy water = rust. Bad seals in rear = dead bearing on passenger side. Changing them both for good measure. I also pulled the rear CV's apart and the inner joints had water in them. Water is the enemy:mad:
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I feel your pain. My ECU was stone dead. After I got it pulled out of the pit there was 6-8" of water in it. Lots of Lysol and drying in the hot sun and no smell. Got the interior back together just got to get the time and no rain (rains near every afternoon this time of year in Florida) so I can finish doing the wheel bearings.
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Still working on my Forester after sinking it in a mud hole. Striped the interior,changed ECU,changed ALL the fluids(you might want to do the same,I had water in both diffs)and am in the process of changing rear wheel bearings now. The week or so I spent drying it out and getting it running the rear passenger side wheel bearing rusted itself to death.
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Pics off road!!!!!!!!!!
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No worries,I've found 15" versions of virtually the same tires.
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I'd like to see them too but all those links are dead. Anybody got them somewhere else?
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Thanks,that's what I wanted to know.
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Supposed to be 27.5 inch which would fit under strut perch. I know on the newer Foz's with 16in rims you can fit 15's with a little grinding on the caliper for clearance. Just need to know if Subaru made a 14" rim with a 5x100 bolt pattern.
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Did Subaru make or is their a 14" rim that will fit on my01 Forester? Before anyone even asks why it's because I want to make up a set of these for strictly off road. Have a set to take with me and put on at the park or when I'm up in W.V. They come in a 27.5x9-14.
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Now that is sharp.
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After getting it to start and run Thursday night I decided to blow work off Friday and change all the fluids and put it back together. (Interior was still all pulled out) Now before I get to far let me say that when I first started drying it out and trying to start it I pulled the plugs before I ever cranked it over. Having had a BAD hydro-locking experience makes me a little jittery about that kind of thing. When I cranked it,splosh outta the passenger side. I thought "oh ****" I did suck up water,but when I smelled it it was gas. I figured when the brain drowned it stuck one of the injectors open and filled the cylinder with fuel. Flash forward to Friday I started it and puled it to the back of the driveway and first did the engine oil change. It was as much gas as oil so I guess I scrubbed the inside of the motor. Both diff's had water in them,trans fluid looked good. Got it all changed and took it out on the road,first time since the incident. Now before it happened (the incident) I had a slight hum from the rear that I am pretty sure was a rear wheel bearing on it's way out. Now it's a pronounced grumble. So I'm in the process of pulling the hubs so I can take them to work and press the bearings out. Isn't off-roading fun boys and girls?
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That's exactly how deep it was. I've opened up the brain box (they're not sealed in the slightest) and found VERY BAD THINGS. Yes it's fried like an egg over easy.
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Went and got stuck in the mud and water. Didn't get pics of the event but got pics of aftermath. When I got it pulled out and opened the door water poured out like a waterfall out the door. It stalled while in the pit so I had truck that pulled me out tow me back to the house,just a couple of blocks. It was shorting out like crazy and I just disconnected the battery and started the drying out process. Not sure yet if I'm screwed but I'll do whatever I gotta to straighten it out. You'd think I'd learn.