Pontiac6KSTEAWD

My 2.5 01 Legacy does it too. Both with the old engine, and the new engine. We gave up trying to track it down. One shop suggested the sychros in the tranny. But in Neutral? it just didnt make sense.

It was mainly sarcasm, as I work for BNSF as a contractor. But anyways

Hmmm.. **looks up the number for the BNSF train/yardmaster***

Excuse my ignorance, but I have only heard this "tick of death" in videos on the forum. Could someone explain to me in a bit more detail as to what it is, what is causeing it, etc. To me it sounds like valve lash. I have heard ticking valves befor on SBC engines, 307's mainly. And it was a valve bridge that was causing the noise. I would imagine that Subaru doesnt use such flim flam technology, but I thought I would ask..

Looks good, I would have probly gone a little bit longer with the board. But other than that, looks good.

I havent read the whole thread, but heres my .02 . I have done this numerous times. However, I would suggest getting a 4x4, and running it thru the rafters, going from one end of the garge to the other if you have a single car garage. If you have a 2 car garage, the same rule applies, but you only have to do it for the garage bay you are in, with a single 2x4 going upright at the end. you already will be distributing the weight out over a large section spanning at least the single bay of the garage. I have used this to pull Dodge 440s, 318s, slant 6, chevy 281, 305, 350, 8.2, 6.0, and many more engines. the joices are holding up nicely. The only thing I did diferently, is that I had a 2 car garage, and I used a 1 inch steel rebarb, that spanned the entire length of the garage, going to the outter walls. This way the weight is far more distributed, and the end walls support any addition weight made missed by the rafters.

I have this sneaky suspicion that CCR will bail on this one... I think I would be at a point of telling CCR to take the motor back, get your money back, and find a used motor. But thats just me...

My 06 Tribeca, I went to the dealer, and ordered an AUX plug for a 07 Tribeca. The plug is already in the back of the radio, and it was just a matter of running the wire under the console to the pocket under the armrest, and put the other end of the plug in its already pre-cut hole. Why they never put it in at the factory just boggles my mind. Unfortunately, the Tribeca radio only works in the Tribeca (its one of those preformed ones, with the AC controls, and a separate screen in the dash). As far as my 01 goes, i couldn't get you a pic now. We just replaced the radio, 2 weeks ago, to a Pioneer Premier radio that has the IPOD controls built in, USB ports, and a AUX plug. The radio shop in Denver kept the old radio (it no longer worked). I could get a pic of the radio that's pictured in the owners manual, as its the same one, and has the AUX plug pictured. We replaced it with this one.. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/In-Dash/CD-Players/Premier/DEH-P510UB But we will be living in Colorado, with the cell phone headset laws. So we are returning it, and getting this one... http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/In-Dash/CD-Players/Premier/DEH-P610BT Its got the cell phone Blue Tooth.. You can find them in radio shops cheaper than what Pioneer Electronics website has. No we don't have some big, boombastic stereo system. its just the Pioneer head unit, with Alpine components door speakers in the front, and alpines in the read doors.

why would you say that? My 01 OB has the Aux plug (factory), same with my 06 (after I installed it), and my 90 legacy (Factory). Whats quirky about it, some years had them, and some didnt. My 93, 94, doesnt. Even thou it has the same radio, they dont have the plugs.

Check the computer? O2 sensor? Why would you even try to even check these items if the leakdown test proves lower, and imbalanced, compression? This concerns me greatly...

Having owned Datsuns, Nissans, and GMC/Chevy S15/S10's, and driven the piss out of them, I guess you could say i know a bit about the longevity of these particular breeds of trucks... I used a 90 model GMC S15 as a courier truck many years ago. I bought it with 47k on the clock. I retired it at 352k miles. Not because the truck couldn't do it anymore, but because I got out of the courier bit, and got into truck driving. In those 300k miles of ownership, the maintenance consisted of replacing motor mounts, tie rods, balls joints, and pitman arms, plus the normal routine maintenance. The motor never died on me, the auto tranny never died on me. Consistent fuel mileages. It was a tough truck, and I never replaced the timing chain. These motors, as well as the bullet proof 3.8 motors, are of the type that you dont change it, unless you have the nylon gears (only a few select years), or if it fails. Otherwise, you just dont touch it. Sold it to another courier years ago. He is still driving it today. 927k miles on the frame/body, 360k the tranny went, and again at 770k. The motor went out at 777k just after the tranny. He was tempted to junk it because he thought miles were an omen. The miles read, exactly 777166.6. he decided to keep it, and it has already paid back for the motor and tranny, plus some. The Nissans I had befor that, well, having to replace timing belts got rather pricey. And put me out of work 1 day. Which when you do them every 8 months, because of the milage, well, that gets expensive. The fuel milage gain out of the nissan was not worth it. Plain and simple. Toyotas, Rust prone are they. Motors are great in fuel injection models only. Stay away from the carb models. Never worked on a carbed toyota yet that didnt have carb problems. I just stay away from these trucks. They are either rode hard, and put away wet, unmaintained junk. Or, Overly maintained, well shown truck, that the owner thinks are worth their weight in gold. Which the might be, but not really... The Datsuns, well i would take one of those older pickups over any other small truck on the road. Motors, trannys, are just completely bullet proof. One I had with 533k miles on the original motor, and 4th clutch. I retired it cause fixing the AC was to expensive. Sold it to a guy who didnt care about the AC, and he continued driving it to 890k miles befor it failed inspection for rust thru on the frame behind the cab. Junk yard bound it was, where it turned into a yard truck for 6 months befor the frame completely broke. Thats the only problem with those older Datsuns.. RUST. Everything else about these trucks suck. Motors/trannys, great! Everything else, SUCK! Ford, the 4 cyls are great engines, timing belt, great gas milage, easy to work on, and easily upgradeable. Underpowered thou, not ideal for any towing. 3.0, underpowered, gutless, horrid fuel milage runners, but they will run, and run, if you can keep the trash ford electronics to stay working. And most of the 3.0's are FFV trucks (can run E85). Even worse for towing than the 4 cylinders thou. 4.0, well powered, assertive motors, horrid fuel milages, and the same electronic issues the 3.0 has. Great towers. Now you might think I am biased. Being that I work for GM, and have a very impressive list of GM vehicles. And to a degree I am. Because I know what works. But I have also owned my share of cans and trucks. My favorite daily driver, which I no longer own, was a FORD (Lincoln to be exact). And also take into mind that I am really begining to hate GM. Every time that GM finally gets a vehicle 100% right. They discontinue it. Everytime they make a motor that is finally 100% indestructable, they discontinue it. And the bankruptcy filing only proves my point more. With all that said, I would still pick a S15 GMC 90's models over any breed of truck offered in those years. If we are talking about the 80's, I would find a Datsun/Nissan.

Well said... But without the hint of sarcasm...

On your Honda... If it is a SOHC Honda engine, they are known to have O-ring problems at the distributor, and floods the cap area with oil. This causes a no fire issue. Just a FYI...

My H6 in my Tribeca says Premium Gas Recomended, but not required..

I would ask your Les Schwab people about the "new rim". Something simple, like what do you recomend. He will probly head off to his computer, and come back to you and say something like, "getting your old rims repaired is what I recomend", since you cant find this style of bolt pattern anymore.. Just do a simple search on http://www.tirerack.com and you can tell there just arent aftermarket rims available.. Also, all you have to do it use a steel wool drill bit, and grind off all the corrosion on the bead. Then paint it with bead sealer, wait a day for it to dry, and reinstall your tire. You dont even need to put the paint bead sealer on, but it makes it so it isnt a problem latter down the line. Lastly, I would have asked to see the leak at the bead. I realize that alloy wheels do have a tendency to leak air, for some reason its just the nature of the beast. But I have seen more tires go flat from a bad valve stem than anything else (besides a nail or screw puncture).

Off topic.. Burt Subaru eh? Thats where my Legacy came from.. Are they even still in business?

Find? LOL... Sorry... There are 2 options of getting that pipe last I knew. Pipe the right sized pipe from Autozone, or wherever, and then use a home pipe bending to make it. The other option is a muffler shop. I went the muffler shop route. Didnt have time to deal with it. We also used a Ford Escort muffler. It was the right size, inlet and outlet, fit in the space provided, and was cheaper than the OEM spec muffler. I just cant remember the year of escort we got it off of. Had to be a 80's or 90's thou, cause I havent owned that Hatch since sometime in the 90's.

Althou I agree with you about buying from wal-mart. However, the battery might have a wal-mart tag on it, its also the same battery found at Autozone, Advanced Auto, and many other parts distributors. Theres only 3 manufactures for car batteries in the entire country, and they make the batteries for every reseller out there. All they do is put a diferent tag on, or use a diferent colored plastic. Johnson Controls makes the majority of the batteries, Delphi, and I cant remember the name of the third maker..

Is there a reason why you want the resinator pipe? It isnt required for state inspections. My 84 Hatch didnt have one. Y-pipe, Cat, Ext pipe, muffler, tailpipe. Thats all thats needed.

Glad to know I am not the only one that got a headache from that... OUCH...

I do beleive its going to be simpler to go back to the "donor" legacy, and get that MT ECU..

I still see to much damn toyota.. And single exhaust? WTF! Thats been one of Subarus things since 2005..

Looks like I am out. I have the day off, but the TaxMan says I have an apointment on saturday...

My Pontiac Aztek, and my Pontiac 6000 both have that air system. Cadilacs, Oldsmobiles, Buicks, Pontiacs, and a very few Chevy all got the AIR systems. Best thing in the world too. Never thought about grafting the system onto another car... hmmm Ideas... Take the hood light out of a Jeep Cherokee also. The large mount system. Can also be found in 95-2000 Chevy/GMC full size trucks. The light is hooked to a 20 foot cord, on the back of the light is a magnet. Takes to a 100 watt fog light bulb well. and is water proof for changing a tire in the rain. I installed it on my 6000, thinking about installing it on this Subaru if I get it...

That looks entirely to much like a toyota camry.. Could this be the end of Subaru as we know it, and have loved it for so long?