Markus56

But it DOES charge. One eye's red BRAT does the same thing. And replacing the link fixed the smoking problem And to clarify, after i rev the motor, the alt stays on until the ignition is turned off.

its a maxima swap so the pulley is the Subaru dual belt pulley. All contacts are good. that was the second thing i did. Drove it for a while and everything seems to be doing good, except for the alt not turning on until hit 3k or so part. Tomorrow it is going on a 60 mile round trip to my shop and back, so we will see what happens

OK. so when i start the car, there is no charge from the alternator. when i rev the car past 4k, all of a sudden the alt works, and puts out 13.4 volts or so, but then the black fusible link starts to smoke. so i am going to replace the black fusible link and see what happens There were no bad fuses or links

Dont get your hopes up. My lift kit still isnt finished and i need to make a skid plate

not yet... car is at home. I'm not

Well, according to MitchellonDemand, i need to pay attention to the red and black fusable links and fuses 9 and 12. should have looked at the wiring diagram sooner

I had both signal wires in both spots and nothing changed

The dash meter was working accurately without the signal wires

The Arlington PAP has at least 4 EA81s right now, might be worth the trip!

I dont think so. The dash gauge is reading the same as my multimeter, which is about 10.5-11.6 volts

That's the first thing i did, but i will double check.

No dash lights turn on when the key is set to the run position

85 GL wagon, maxima alt swap When the car is running, i can only get 11 or so volts out of the alternator. i had the alt tested two different times at different parts stores using different types of machines, and the alt has tested good in all areas. It worked for the first time i had it installed, then when i was backing out of a parking lot, something happened and all the electrical shut off. i played with the black fusible link and everything turned back on, except the alt stopped charging. took the alt out and had it tested, it is fine. threw it back in, nothing. replaced the black fusible link, and still nothing. what are some things that could be going on? BTW, should the black wire in the alt plug have 12v when the ignition is off? And should they both have 12v when the ignition is on?

get it tight in the air then torque on the ground

Honestly, if you are looking for a daily driver, then DONT LIFT IT. all you will do is create problems

still gonna need to pry on the trailing arm to get that extra distance to slide the axle off the shaft

The list! tabs hooked my 4 roof lights into a relay returned my 100 amp GM alt, and replace with a 90 Amp Maxima alt! 20 bucks!!! got 2 more rear axles and stub shafts upgraded to power steering

The easy way to do this is to jack up the car (and use jackstands!!!) and disconnect the lower strut mount. then drive out the roll pins on both sides of the CV. get a long skinny prybar and wedge it between the trailing arm and the doj cup. then hammer the cup off of the stub shaft.

Interesting. Why? what about two 14 gauge wires in parallel?

That is what i meant, stupid reverse gauge numbers crap ALSO: for anyone reading this, DO NOT get a "Quality Built" brand re-man alternator. They are garbage and like to set your wiring harness on fire.

the wire is the fuse on a related note, if you spliced the ends of 16 gauge speaker wire together, does that make 32 gauge wire?

Incorrect. They are from a Nissan

A little bird told me you could run a heavy wire from the charging post of a high output (GM or Maxima) alternator straight to a positive post of a battery, as to not set your wiring harness on fire when running 10 headlights and a stereo. Is this true?

you could take a straight edge to your radius rods and tie rods to check for true.

La Conner WA, REPRESENT NUKE THE TULIPS