MtTech

And vice-versa... us young-uns (me) should listen to the old dudes once in a while, we could actually learn something. So I have to remember this at times... "Old age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill" says one of the guys here at our shop. And the all time favorite- "No good deed goes un-punished". Thanks, T-man

+1 for GD's answers... I think you might have a thrust or alignment issue after the 1st gear/case halves were fixed. Get another tranny. MT

I've notched pipe ends to match the nut on power antennas, filed a groove into the side of it to fit a 12mm wrench to turn it with. This way I don't have a chance of scratching the paint while changing a mast with snap ring pliers to twist the nut.

UM, NO. Subaru, in their infinite wisdom, along with many other manufacturers, have deleted exterior locks on most if not all models of their cars recently. The only lock left is the driver's... none on the passenger door or rear gate. All you get now is the key fob. I am not certain about base models but would suspect that cheaper cars w/o keyless entry would have locks.

'93 Imp 1.8 2WD 5 speed is the "odd one out" here. All others should go nicely together. Either way, it would be a good idea to check the splines before you install...

All TY752VA2AA units I have came from 90-94 Legacys, all 4.11. 93 Imp shows TY752VX3AA 96 Leg shows TY752VABCA... BOTH 4.11. I would figure the earlier cars had the .780 5th g/r from what I have seen. The only records I have show .780 for brighton, L, GT; 871 for OB in 2000. Somebody may have the right manual for your application.

Search,....search,.....search..... the USRM can be your friend http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76990

After putting H6 brakes on my 98 RS, there is little room for anything between the caliper and the original 16" wheel. I doubt the 15s will work. Twin piston calipers are found on many models. In fact, I retained mine. I just used the brackets for the calipers and swapped the discs. The brackets have a greater height to account for the larger diameter disc.

I'd undo the 14mm bolt on the bottom of the knuckle and pry out the ball joint. It's the least amount of fasteners and work in my opinion. Remove wheel 19mm Remove axle nut 32mm Remove bolt on knuckle @ ball joint 14mm Remove pin @ tranny 3/16 Pry ball joint out of knuckle Pound out axle... Again, stressing the aftermarket axle issue... spend the extra $$ for a Subaru or MWE axle. I can't tell you how often a tire shop up the road puts 'em in (aftermarket) and we take 'em out...

My personal vehicle only leaked while being "used". As in holding the vehicle. I simply disconnected the cable and it is still there to this day, not leaking. You can rebuild them. I have not, but I am sure someone here has and could point the way for you.

Look for two cables on your throw-out fork. The one on top loops back around under the master cylinder to the hill holder valve. Hard lines connect the M/C to the H/H valve. It should be equipped, unless previous owners removed it or disconnected it. http://www.mttechsuba.com/photos/19851994_loyale/ea82-parts-028.html This view is of the driver's side of the valve, note two mounting holes on bracket, they mount onto frame rail. Yours might look a bit different as this is from a later model.

Check for AC voltage... If its too high that is not good. (0.5 or higher) Also try to check the alternator when the car is acting up, Alt. output may be intermittent. If light in bash for the battery is burned out, alternator will not charge.

Alternator bad. Replace with a "good" unit... Such as a dealer reman or a Delphi. Bosch had a bad run some time ago, I don't use 'em now, as they failed way to often. If you get the Shuck's or Autozone lifetime warranty part, know that you will be changing it every six months for a lifetime. Just my $.02...

Stupid thing leaks when hooked up and being used. = Disconnected.

I would check to make sure there is no water in the spark plug holes. If there is, get the engine up to running temp, remove the wires and blow out the holes and wire ends with compressed air, let stand for a few minutes for the remaining to evaporate, re-assemble. If you can run the car in a dark environment, it is very easy to check for fouled wires and or coil by seeing the spark escape...

3/16

The thing to do now is let every one you know about this, forward links through e-mails for the reps addys, etc. with text of the HB copied to your document or linked so that people can read it. If those interested in stopping this do what they can, it should fail. For their own vehicles: Contractors, plumbers, electricians (lumber/cargo racks decrease mileage as well as trailers) And Businesses: 4x4 shops, performance shops, tire shops, the list goes on... How many businesses will close if this passes? How many will move to Vancouver? Not to mention, in this "economy" none the less... Will we go north to buy our stuff? If we do, will police pull us over for having performance tires on our Legacys (or whatever)? How would they know??? Sounds like they will need more government employees to track, enforce, prosecute, process, ..., ... I'll be sending my letters off tonight to those listed above!

+1 The key here is to remove tension on the belt with the crank pulley timing mark as close to "12:00" as possible. This way the pistons are in the center of their stroke in the cylinder, far away from the valves.

Misfire not a product of a dirty IAC. Inconsistent idle speed more common failure. PCV flow not likely either... I would remove and check the spark plugs, verify the wires are the correct fit to the plug, no carbon tracking on the plugs through the wire. Proper gap on the plug. (I would not recommend platinum, Iridium, or split-fire type plugs. Champion, Autolite are brands I would steer clear from as well) USE NGK BKR6E-11 stock #2756 spark plug (any parts house that carries them, or Subaru dealer). Subaru wires are the best (fit, performance, longevity) SOA430Q115 (dealer) I would suspect a fuel injector next, perhaps an O2 sensor. Some folks use the NGK copper plug in your application, they just require more frequent changes...

Year? Model? 1.8, 2.2, ... ? 4EAT? 5MT? Mileage?

Oouch!... Nice catch OB99W

Funny, I thought they were the one to see. Any reasons?

Get a Subaru T-stat, bleed air from system. If you didn't put in as much coolant as you drained out, you have air bubbles... WENTZ912: you most likely have a blown head gasket OR a cracked head. Pull the exhaust down from the engine, apply pressure to cooling system, you may see coolant coming from the exhaust port in the head(s).

http://www.ccrengines.com/ They're in Denver, I don't know if they do piece work though. But I am sure they'll sell you a whole engine... Or might know of a company that can fix you up. mt

The gasket on the right is a second generation gasket, factory installed in many 2.5s. The one on the left is a third generation, currently for sale over the counter at dealerships. Note the difference of... second gen has a bronze/brass rivet (lower left corner of old gasket in pic), third gen has a square stamp in the corners. This identifying mark can be visible under the A/C compressor while engine is in the car. If you install the gaskets backwards, you'll know fairly quickly as the oil passage will be blocked off to the head and the cams will seize! So, yes, fuji symbol faces out... As far as up-side-down, that would be tough to do. But it would not surprise me if someone has.