wentz912

So I've got an 85 GLW, and have determined that I have at least one bad headgasket. At this point I have two options, I can either do the fix with the engine in the car and struggle with a few things, and have the car done in a week or two. Or I can wait on the long block that a friend of mine will give me, also with bad hgs. Fix that one on the floor, and then swap the two. I don't NEED the car back, but it would definitely make life easier on my wallet, my truck is terrible on fuel. The car has been sitting for a few months already, so should I just go ahead and fix it with engine in car?

Well ive got my basic plan for my car now! see ya minvday spenc!

Mine got hot while i was home on a break from work but the radiator was still cold so I get to do a flush and replace the thermostat. Hopefully don't need to do the hg's.

If you drill the lug holes to half inch, the wheel wont center itself off of the lugs and you could have serious wobble issues. The lug nut thing is assuming that they are alloy wheels that would require mag type nuts anyhow.

If anyone is interested in drilling these sort of wheels, the drill size you need is 29/64, which should be pretty commonly available. It will however require the use of flat faced lug nuts.

Well at keast I didn't drop it down the crossover tube! But Spencer yiu gonna be around next week? . I need to come get some wheels!

Incorrect.

Just to preserve my dignity, it wasn't a misconception, I just got my definitions mis-remembered in my head. The correct information was already there.

I concede defeat. My brain was once again confusing my terms and definitions.

Not doubting the strength of the chromoly, I work with metal for a living so i understand it. Just saying that a tube of the same material and size would be stronger. Wait, will that car DO 100?

You are aware that, structurally, tubing is actually stronger than solid stock?

Should I still even if my harness has already been all hacked up? I'm looking at changing the common ground situation as well.

The link you sent me to says the kiit is for a 98? Just checking you gave the correct link, would hate to order the wrong part!

Can you tell us more about the face plate? Very interested since the factory plate is definitely not single din width friendly.

So I hooked the fan directly to the battery and got Nada. Looks like ive got a burned up fan. Time to source a new one. Should i go with another factory one or find a largeraftermarket one and mount it using the factory harness?

I know my 85 has collars on the rear shocks that are adjustable for ride height like the old dual shock dirt bikes were. Can't speak for the EA81 cars.

I did not have anything on me to jump with yesterday and am already at work for the day so will be testing it this afternoon when I'm done for the day. And just to clarify for myself, you're saying to jump the one terminal on the thermo switch to the other, because internally it has some gizmo that does tue same thing at a certain temperature?

Consider a set sold to me.

It would be the white plug with the two wires going into the back of the fan? I see what looks like the thermostatic controller in the radiator a few inches above the drain, and it has what looks like some very NOT FACTORY connections coming out of it. Is this typical?

So the cooling fan in my 85 GLW does not ever come on. I'm going to try hooking it directly to power to see if it is burned up, but if its not where should i check next?

If your subie is getting driven often enough, mice and other debris is a pretty negligible problem...

Well I ended up figuring it out, under the eye of my buddy, driver side belt was two teeth out. Fixed that and shes all better now

I must have made myself misunderstood, it runs fine up until half throttle, then it just sucks. Im going to check the cam timing again tomorrow after work under the supervision of a friend of mine who knows tyese better than me.

Yup. Got the holes in the cam sprockets lined up with the notches in the plastic cover, driver side up with the tab in the bellhousing on the center of the three marks then spun the crank 360 and did the same to the pass side.

So my 85 GL Wagon is REALLY starting to frustrate me. Just replaced the timing belts this past Saturday, and then the car was really hard to start. At the time I simply chalked it up to old fuel sitting in the carburetor. However, after finally getting it running. Immediately took it down the street and filled it up with premium, along with a bottle of fuel system cleaner. Unfortunately, that didn't do a darn thing. The car runs flawlessy with plenty of guts right up to half throttle........then falls flat on her face Then today she took me a good half hour to get started again:eek: The symptoms of hard starting were exactly the same as the first time it happened after I finished with the belts on saturday, lots of engine spinning and can smell the fuel in the carb even inside the car, but doesn't seem like it was firing at all. I pulled the coil wire and tried arcing it to the block with a screwdriver while a buddy turned it over and it looks like I've got spark but doesn't seem regular, or hot enough. I'm completely lost at what I've done to my car and would like to fix her as soon as possible. Now I know that these cars don't exactly have a whole lot of guts to begin with, but I miss the quick, relatively spunky car that she was before her belts broke.