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Everything posted by wentz912
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I don't know what trucks you drive, but my Toyota falls flat on it's face past 3500, and redlines at 4500, so it gets shifted just after 3k.
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I am now the proud owner of everything I need to five lug swap my 85 GL, minus the reamer to hog out my EA82 control arms for EJ ball joints. Front end parts are all off a 97 Impreza Outback Wagon, rears are the standard xt6 hubs and rotors. Plan is to use the 200sx rear calipers and get the rear handbrake ability! :banana::banana::banana:
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So I bought all the front end bits off a 97 Impreza Outback wagon today. I got the calipers, rotors, knuckles/hubs, balljoints, axle and control arms for both sides. These parts are going to eventually find there way under my 85 GL wagon. What I'd like to know is what other models are compatible with the parts that i bought as far as upgrading brakes/suspension later on down the road. These parts came off a running, driving car. The struts are also newer looking KYB's. It'd be nice to know what I can swap my current parts out with later on down the road when I'm looking to lower or get better performance. :banana:
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I think that what he was trying to say, is that with the lack of vacuum with the car not running IE: while starting, the timing is retarded enough to get going. Then, once the car is running, the intake provides vacuum to the distributor to advance the timing that last little bit.
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EA82 Brake rotor and pad combo
wentz912 replied to 92_rugby_subie's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So quit phucking around on the internet and go get one!!! :horse::banghead: -
Oh right duh. I keep forgetting the glass lens is off the housing for doing all this. I was thinking just the metal housing of the projector would be sticking through the back of the factory bucket. and the majority would be back behind it in the engine compartment.
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Please. I'm trying to visualize it in my head. Are the projectors small enough to fit through the original bulb hole and then something fastens them to the back?
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Was driving back from having my y pipe flange rotated at the exhaust shop when I had a bunch of steam rolling out from under the hood and smelled coolant. Got pulled over and the hood popped open, there's coolant all over the top of the driver's side of the engine. WTF?!?!?! Still got plenty of coolant in the radiator, decide to bomb home before I lose much more coolant since it's only a couple more blocks. Got it home and opened her up again, still running, get the spare and the air cleaner pulled off and start probing around with my screwdriver. Poked a hose and a stream of coolant goes wizzing by my face Found it! Here was the culprit: Got it replaced with a new piece a few inches longer so I could route it around that linkage instead of up against it.
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Well I know that it was set dead on 0* tdc when I installed the dizzy, and its not far enough from the old mark to be a full tooth off. Maybe switch which adjusting ear I'm using?
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Yup I was set almost 10* ATDC. Figured I had to be close since that was about dead nuts with where the witness mark is from when i took it apart and it ran great. Car is now set at ~8* BTDC, but now the dizzy is all the way up against the end of it's adjustment....wtf?
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Agreed. I'm also very curious as to how the projector attaches to the bucket....
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Tons Old School Subaru Decals on Ebay
wentz912 replied to Pooparu's topic in Products for your Subaru
how about a set of mudflap and hatch stickers for an EA82 GL Wagon. Already got the super-awesome "Special-Edition" emblem from O-reillys -
Get er done? The belts are kind of intimidating the first time you do them , but once you understand what's going on, and get rid of all that plastic garbage, they're cake. I've only done one set and am already confident i could do another set in <30 minutes.
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Bought a timing light and played with the timing a little bit. and got it at about 9* I think, i'm just shy of the ten on the left side of the letter A on the flywheel. That seemed to be where it liked to run the best, although I forgot to pull vaccuum advance off. I'm also not sure what to do with the little knob on my timing light, i left it at zero since i was only checking the timing at idle, not sure if that was the right thing to do. The manual that it came with wasn't super clear about it. It seems to drive a bit better now, haven't driven it enough since I messed with it to know if I got any mileage back yet though. Oh and the car is a carb'd 85
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Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!
wentz912 replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My best friend has worked in a tire shop since we were in high school and their rule over there is they won't mount a tire on a wheel that is more than a third narrower than the tire. IE: Won't put a 12.5 tire on anything narrower than an 8" wheel, a 10.5 on narrower than 7" wheel, or a 9.5 tire on narrower than a 6" wheel. -
Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!
wentz912 replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Yes, you never want the tire size to be narrower than the wheel width. the closer to the wheel width that your tire is, the less "bubble" the tire will have. -
Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!
wentz912 replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Going to be a wheeler or a DD/ocassional wheeler? -
Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!
wentz912 replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Yup pretty much. You can get the other number, no matter which one you have. I usually see backspace always measured in inches though, while offset can be either inches or mm. -
Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!
wentz912 replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Backspace is still just the amount of SPACE from the BACK lip of the wheel to the wheel mounting surface. -
Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!
wentz912 replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Don't hate man. when you going to let me come down and help you work on the beast huh? Plus i gotta give you a list of parts to dig out of the barn! -
Looks like I have a bad headgasket...
wentz912 replied to shadman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Does your cooling fan work? Does it always get hot or only under certain circumstances? -
Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!
wentz912 replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Incorrect. Offset is the distance from the centerline of the rim of the wheel, to the wheel mounting surface(The surface up against the wheel hub/brake drum when it's mounted.) It's negative when it's closer to the outside lip, and positive when it's closer to the inside. EXAMPLE: My 14x6 Pug alloys have 4.5" of backspace. The centerline of the 6" wheel is 3" across. 3"-4.5"= -1.5" This implies that they also have 1.5" of negative offset. The "real" formula for calculating offset is as follows: (Wheel width/2)-(Backspace)=Offset -
Official 6-Lug Re-drill Thread: Now in the USRM!
wentz912 replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
5.5" backspace is what I would need to get the same stick out from 7" wide wheel as what my 6" wide wheels give me.