TROGDOR!

The bumpers are basically the same size. The newer model bumper looks like it sticks out more mainly because the turn signals are recessed so far back. FYI, they released the new bumper style for the 87 model year.

XT seats are NOT supposed to bolt into an EA82. I've installed both styles of XT seats in 3 different EA82's and the setup was exactly the same on each one. Take the rails off of both sets of seats. Screw the front of the EA82 rails on the XT seats using the factory screws. For the back mounts, on the passenger seat, you'll need to either drill holes in the XT seat frame OR use something to bridge the gap between the holes in the seat rails and the holes in the seat frame. I used a piece of steel with holes in both ends. On the back of the driver's seat you'll need to use the above piece of steel with holes in each end, and angled brackets to make the horizontal mounts on the seat rails bolt up to the vertical mounts on the seat frame. All these parts can be found at Lowe's for a few bucks, the steel pieces I used are called "mending plates."

Hmmm... The one in the center appears to be a ball type inclinometer, reading both front/back and left/right tilt. I wonder what the left and right gauges do? We have a few of these Raiders at work, I can check them out.

This is the typical 85 RX. Power steering did not come standard with them, nor did power locks. The checkerboard seats were notorious for tearing at the side bolsters and were probably replaced. All 85 EA82's had the adjustable spring perches. Like Corky said- the VIN will tell the whole story.

Some very rare 85 turbo GL10's came with the checkerboard interior and Dual Range. Back in the very early run of EA82's, what parts went into what weren't very consistent- some cars appear to just have been thrown together from a parts bin. That car may be even rarer than an RX... nice find!

Check the bearings anyway. I've had one grind, one hum, one sound like rubbing, and another that made no noise at all until it suddenly started coming apart.

Install was SUPER easy. The cluster is all mechanical. The only wiring needed is a power and ground to run the lights. The toughest part is finding a way to mount and enclose it.

So... I managed to get my hands on one of those Toyota 4Runner inclinometer clusters. They came in only the top of the line first gen's. It's a pretty cool gadget, and will come in VERY handy when off road. Left to right, an altimeter, left/right degrees of tilt, front/back degrees of tilt. Marked up to 30 degrees, measures up to 40 degrees, but I wouldn't wanna take it that far! Install is kinda rought at the moment, right now it's just screwed onto the dash using stereo mounting brackets, got the lights wired into my stereo power supply, and using my stereo's clock instead of the factory one. The box is made of this plasticy stuff that my friend's girlfriend had. Took the car onto the steepest road in town and the gauge was hitting 20 degrees! Now here's the trig part... What percent grade is 20 degrees? After doing some looking into it I figured out that to find this out, you just take the tangent of 20. This means that 20 degrees on the gauge equals a 36.4% grade. This was on a paved road, by the way. Going the other way around... to go from percent grade, take the arctangent (tan-1 on the calculator button) of the percentage (8%=.08). So, this horrendous 8% grade that I hit on the highway on the way to work measures out to a paltry 4.5 degrees.

Jeez Tony... how do you do it?? My EA82T only got 26mpg when it ran. I also had a 93 Nissan Sentra, with the same engine as the NX, and it maxed out at 34, averaged 32.

I'd suggest using an old early 80's American land barge as your "bait." If they really did steal them for scrap, something that weighs a lot and has tons of metal will be an irresistible target.

I was consistently getting 33mpg in an 88 2WD XT, 5 speed, on 175/70/13 tires. My 92 Loyale with its 5 speed D/R gets a whopping 28mpg on the highway while riding on 26" PUGS!! The exhaust pipe is totally severed at the back door as well. I'll see how much I can squeeze out of it with an intact exhaust and stock wheels and tires next week.

Get the trans, shifter assemblies (leave it all together, just undo the one bolt in the D/R shifter to let it drop out of the car), and console parts. It swaps right in. D/R is so much better than PB... have fun!

The Europeans got all the good stuff. Touring wagons starting in 1986, and the RX trans in things other than an RX. They also had a 3rd EA82 steering wheel design that looks really cool. Next time I go to visit the fam in Germany I'm going to try and get one of those steering wheels and the euro sidemarkers. Also may pick up the rear door trim that says "Leone"

Yes, they have the same clearance as a GL. They're the exact same car, just not as glitzy. Black bumpers and trim, cheaper interior fabrics, less interior lights, no dual range tranny, no alloy wheels, etc. Also... 1990 is the only year that Loyales were offered with turbo.

I have a Dual Range made in 9 of 89.... has to have been one of the last ever produced. It's installed in my 92 wagon. Swapping one in isn't hard at all. If the car is already manual, all you need is the trans, shifters, and console.

If the car is in the junkyard, it is required to have a salvage certificate. But.... 99% of junkyards will not turn the titles in when they acquire cars from people. If the car came from an auction or insurance company, it WILL have a salvage certificate. If it came from a private individual, most likely it will have a clean title, already signed and ready to transfer, sitting in the yard's file cabinet. That's how it always works out at the yard I work at.

I have spring locks raising the front of the car a bit. Everyone always said "you can't do that", that it will destroy the CV's. I thought what the hell, and did it. 2000+ miles later the CV's are doing just fine. It seems they can take a little more abuse than most people thought.

Cleaned out the wagon real good today and got some pics. I haven't "officially" posted a pic since the last Pine Barrens run, so those of you who don't frequent the Subaru Alliance board or talk to me on messenger will be in for a surprise. Well, give it a look... http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo43?page=1 Before anyone shakes their finger at me about the front axles... I've got over 2000 miles on them like that with no problems, and I have a pair of spares that I snagged for $24- if they do pop, I'll just put my spares in and undo the mod I did, and call it a $25 lesson.

Hmmm... I had a '90 for a few weeks and it didn't have it. My 92 didn't have a brake switch for the auto trans. Could just reach in and turn the key. Every manual Subaru I've ever had, I could actually start it while in gear with the clutch let out.

Loyale's don't have a CSS. You can just reach in the window, turn the key, and start it. As for the NSS... in the wiring harness going into the shifter, you'll need to connect the two center wires- the black/white and the black/yellow. This will make the car think it's in park.

Well, I found one in Pittsburgh, 70 miles away. Time to hit the road and go get it. But just for the record... do the front boots fit the rear?

Parts stores in this town SUCK. The only thing keeping me from getting my car back on the road is the rear outer axle boot. ABSOLUTELY NOBODY IN THIS STUPID TOWN HAS ONE OR CAN EVEN GET ONE. Not even the Subaru dealer can get one!! The front and rear axles look similar enough... can I use a front outer CV boot on the outer joint of the rear axle??

EA81's are overhead valve, EA82's are single overhead cam. EA81's use timing gears (very durable), and EA82's use timing belts. There are many many differences, but those are the big ones.

I put 26's on a stock EA82 with a healthy suspension and the rears rubbed under hard bumps with the trunk empty- with anything more than 30 pounds in the back it was rubbing under moderate bumps. I installed front springs from an 86-89 Honda Accord onto the rear shocks and it took care of the rubbing.

5 speed manual, AWD, fits 90-94 Legacy. Part number TY752VA2AA, Hollander interchange number 400-59681. 4.111 final drive. Hope that helped.