TROGDOR!

If you can get the grille out, use a 12mm socket and unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the catch for the hood latch on. This will let you get the hood open for access- but you'll have nothing to hold the hood down with if you want to drive it again before putting it back together!

Yep, unfortunately thats just the nature of the beast. Remember, these cars were designed for a 55-mph national speed limit.

Yes, it should kick on when the engine starts to heat up. About 2/3 of the way up the gauge I think. Why do you keep trying to fix this? Your car is running exactly like it should. Many Subaru owners can only dream about having their car run that cool. Half up the gauge when idling, 1/3 with air flowing over the engine. Sounds perfect to me. Your heat problem could be a heater core issue. The engine cooling system is obviously working fine.

Yo Paul... just FYI, you could cook Smores in front of the vents on that wagon.

I would love to see the legendary Harry's. I'm sure Jeremy would love to come too. Paul... if I can make it to this run, maybe you should bring some extra cash and a spare driver. I could bring you the red wagon at that point.

The pre-1990 rear seat belts bolt on below the rear glass and unroll from next to the back door. The 1990-up belts bolt in above the rear glass and unroll from below the rear glass. It may be possible to fab a setup for a child seat. I doubt the early models will have the upper bolt hole above the headliner. But, I bet the late models take the same bolt hole to mount the seat belt spool. The upper mount for the late model belts actually does not absorb any tension from the belt- it's only there to keep the seatbelt from rubbing on people's necks. I bet you could mount the tensioner/spool from a Loyale in the lower bolt hole and just run the belt over the back of the seat. The Loyale most likely takes the same bolt hole for the outer side of the lap belt as well. I had an 88 wagon with the same seatbelt setup that you had, and it was actually very hard for me to pop the seatbelts apart. If I remember right I could barely do it with my bare hands. Your buckles may be worn out. Check some cars in the junkyard and see if they're any tighter.

Reminds me of my XT collection that I had for a month or so... That is, until I sold the nonturbo one to Conker for under $500. Hope youre reading this, you lucky S.O.B. Oh, and happy birthday!

It's a good idea to soak the top ones in PB blaster for a few days before pulling them. Every one I've pulled has been a royal pain to loosen. Took all my strength on a breaker bar, all the way up until the bolt dropped out of the hole.

All Loyales have the tall console. It doesn't really have any more room than the older model one, but it makes a nice armrest.

Your PCV valve is bad and is blowing oil into the intake. On long right turns, the oil is pushed down the intake tube and into the throttle body. Replace the PCV valve and your problem will be solved.

I hear ya on breaking something 3 hours from home. I'd be up for coming and hanging out though.

Look under the trans, on the driver's side of the trans pan. You should see a metal rod going up into the console, it runs through a little lever sticking out of the trans. On the end is about 2-3 inches of threaded area (total, that includes the covered part) with a nut on the end. Loosening or tightening this nut will adjust your shift linkage.

Nope, this was definitely an RX. Unless RS's have an RX interior and a FT4WD D/R with diff lock. And they don't. Besides, it said RX all over it.

I just found quite a find in town today... a black RX coupe, no body kit, just the lip and the wing. The car is in beautiful condition, has the FT4WD D/R in it. So what's the deal with these rare cars? From what I understand they were made in the 89.5 model year ONLY. The 87 brochure shows a black RX wannabe, but this car I found has the gold trim and "RX" badging. I put the usual "If you want to sell this, contact me" note on it, as well as a link to our site. Anyone know how many of these cars were actually made?

Make sure that conical washer comes out! Sometimes they don't like to drop; a little tapping around the side with a screwdriver helps loosen them up. Also some pounding on the flat surface of the hub will shake it looks. If the conical washer is still in place, the axle WILL NOT POUND OUT. PERIOD. I was just as frustrated as you the first time I found that out.

It could not be a valvetrain problem at all. Subarus are known to tick sometimes, it's not always detrimental. Here's a way to check for bad rings... Squit a little bit of oil in through the spark plug hole, then compression test. If the compression jumps up to normal, then you know there's a problem on the bottom end of the engine. The high compression before running the car could be a result of some oil seeping into the cylinder while the car was sitting.

Good point... especially since the stock trans cooling lines run to a chamber at the bottom of the radiator on an EA82.

As you may know an automatic transmission is a hydraulic system. Being hydraulic, it uses a certain amount of pressure to operate. My bet is it's only leaking under pressure. Depending on how big the leak is, you may be able to get some drips if you have the car running at fast idle, set the parking brake, and put it in 1st gear, then let it sit. If the leak is a very small one this probably won't reveal anything. Check the vacuum line running to the modulator. Is there any fluid in it? If there is, the modulator is bad, and your trans fluid is being sucked into the engine. Check the front diff oil as well. If your front seal is failing, your trans fluid could be going into the diff. Usually it happens the other way around, but it's worth a look anyway.

Here's how the scam works... Say you sell the car for $2500. The guy in "Africa" sends you a bogus cashier's check for $3500. You go ahead and deposit it. Then he writes back and says, oops, we made a mistake and sent you an extra $1000. Please send us a cashier's check for $1000 to cover the difference when you send us the title to the car. So... you go ahead and send them a REAL cashier's check for $1000. About this point the bank realizes the first cashier's check was bogus, and pulls the money back out of your account. Meanwhile this guy has the legal rights to your car and $1000 of your money. There's so many of these scams going around, I won't sell a car to anyone who doesn't pay me in person; unless it's either someone I trust from here or someone who pays in cash or certified postal money orders. You just can't be too careful. What's the email address that that came from? If it's a US address, you can forward it to your local police department.

Just because the alt looks good doesn't mean it is. Have it bench tested at a shop. On a battery you will notice 3 numbers... Cold Cranking Amps, Cranking Amps, and Reserve Capacity. The reserve capacity is the number, in minutes, that your battery should last with a bad alternator and minimal accessories. That is, if the battery is fully charged when the alternator dies. So... a battery with a reserve capacity of 60 should last 60 minutes with no accessories running- by the book. Don't bet the farm on it though. If I knew my alt was dead, I would only drive the car in order to get it to the quickest safe place before it totally died. Whether it be home, a friends house, an auto parts store, or in the case of my last alt failure- a church.

They're 4.111 if I remember right. I may be wrong, anyone else know?

Blah... what a nice surprise... I come in from a long day at the yard and find that my computer has "taken a dook", to quote MilesFox. The thing is totally crapped out right now... I'm using my old dinosaur computer to log in right now. Anyway... yes that was a GREAT day at the yard! Hooked up Jules with the D/R trans that had been living on my porch for 2 months... and at the yard we grabbed an EA82T with the super rare turbo spider intake, got myself a spoiler for the XT, Skip got a very nice looking RX-type front lip. We also got all kinds of misc. parts, Jeremy managed to pull an XT vent panel without breaking it! If any of you people in this area where considering coming up for a yard run sometime, DO IT! This was the most USMB members I've ever been to the yard with, and it made the trip even more fun. Plus with all the extra manpower, we can cover a lot more ground. With a whole weekend and a few more guys I'm sure we could strip a few of those cars to the bone. Lots of neat stuff at these yards- EA82's, EA81's, and even 7 or 8 XT's and a few Legacies. And for those of you into other cars as well as Subarus, there's tons of other stuff in there as well.

Some guy posted on here several months ago with one of those. From what everybody figured out, it was just a dealer promo and was not actually made by Subaru.

Corolla SR-5 or Tercel SR-5?

Well... I checked... the guy has a 30 day guarantee on labor. The price is indeed for BOTH heads. This place specializes in 80's and early 90's Subarus, so they know exactly what they're getting into. The place really seems to remind me of Dennis' old shop, where swapping heads was almost a routine matter.