gravelRX

How does your car handle with the roll center on your car like it is and a bigger front sway bar? Did you also swap in a XT6 rear bar? Curious, Jay Good Website. I need to do that one day.

It's a shell game. They can give you what you want for the car if you push it, but the price of the new car doesn't go down very much from sticker. Buying a new car involves homework. The more research you do the better off you are in the long run. My advice is never buy a new car. Always opt for a one year old, low, low mileage car. Someone has already eaten the initial off the lot depreciation. .02 Jay

Well timed post. I was just asking about this in my up pipe fab post. Jay

Thanks for the data on the TWE pipe. I downloaded the sound clips onto my computer and listened to them. I don't think it sounds like a motorcycle, a bit raspier than mine. That's not a bad thing. What muffler are you running and what size pipe out the back? Cat? Will, not to continue poking at you but the last picture I saw of your RX says different. I'm sure whatever car you build next will be a nice one. With many well thought out bolt-on modifications. Without sending the Turbo off to someone how would you suggest the best way to polish the port on the exhaust side? Grind out the ugly and make it shiny? Seriously? I have an extra. Maybe now would be a good time to upgrade the turbo, Eh? I'm thinking the 1.75 OD with the factory turbo is going to be a smidge on the large side. I doubt I'll buy another box of 36' mandrel bent tubing at 1.50" OD unless I was going to build more than one set. I was going to cut the original pipe off the flanges and use those flanges but I do have enough scrap steel laying around I could just make my own. What is it? 1/4" 3/16"? How well does the four mounting holes work for you TWE folks? Sidewayz: Thanks for the warping advice. I am going to weld the pipe to the flanges bolted onto the engine. Haven't looked to see if I can make the full circles around the pipe without taking them loose yet. Hope so. I'm more worried about getting the collector under the turbo pretty. No, not pretty, Functional. Just functional. I haven't mastered the "warp and warp it back" school of welding yet. My father could weld sheet steel to steel block and not get a single bow. Practice, Practice. Regards, Jay

Ave, That's what I want to hear. First gear in mine is like that too. Especially in L range. WJM, just because it will rev to 7500 doesn't mean you should. Remind me never to let you drive my car. It would shock the old girl to be beaten on that hard. Jay

Do you recall OD/ID on the TWE? You don't like my solid DP? Whatsamattawifyou! Itsaperty! Read the whole post about the motor mounts. Might get a ratchet strap and cinch the motor and crossmember together for fitment sake. I'll eventually get under the RX and see if I missed anything else that might get in the way. Jay

Measured with the exhaust off the engine, across all three openings of exhaust. Spent a little time today with a cut-off wheel getting the heat shields away from the factory pipe. I was surprised to learn they have cloth material in them for insulation. I don't remember the 87 having it. this pipe is from an 88. I'll search for a rallyruss post on TWE. Thanks, Jay

Measured the factory exhaust tonight. 1.75 out of the head, both sides, to 1.50 at the base of the turbo. I searched for TWE specifications for the OD/ID and couldn't find it. MY piping for this project is 2.75 O.D. I don't much care about top end, I'm looking for power in the bottom, mid range. Anyone running the TWE header with a 260* Delta cam? When does that come into the boost? Mine starts at around 2650 and pull right up until redline. Factory boost. I would like to keep it there or get a bit lower, say 2500. Top end does not matter to me. So a big cam in a naturally aspirated, slightly overcarburated, lightened flywheel, strong clutch, rear wheel drive, sub 2600 lb, 245/50 15 shod car would get me what I want. And the instantanious throttle response would be nice too. A Miata with a built 5.0 out of a Mustang would probably fit the bill. Rear from a Thunderbird. Anyone want to buy an RX? I'll finish the header before you pick it up. Tomorrow is another day and I won't order pizza.(See previous post) Jay

Haven't cracked a book yet. Just had to pull the pizza guy from the edge of the new driveway. he ripped a big chuck of new asphalt loose. Yay. Suby, thanks for the tip about the tuned vs equal. I will look for a good picture of the EJ header. Myx, I do want mine to sound like a boxer, but it's not that important. Special thanks for the picture and the advice. Built the majority of the jig to hold the turbo in place when I cut the exhaust pipes off the flanges. Chunks of scrap steel and some quick welds. Need to put the 45's in and call it done for tonight. It would be bad to go through all this trouble and build something that won't fit on the RX because the turbo mount sagged when I was fabbing it up. Shadow- Couple Q's from your post. *Centerline measurements- on that. *Step from head into pipe- That's going to come from using the original flanges. Might even have to open them up a bit. *Burns 2-1- I'm not following you on this one. *Slipjoints- I'm going to weld it in and see what happens. Don't want to have any of the piping crack but doing it with the grassroots frame of mind. The downpipe has been in for a year and hasn't failed as of yet. It's solid from the turbo out to the back. Have thoughts on the 1 3/4" piping and how it will effect boost onset? Appreciate all the other advice. I'm probably going to find pictures of some good designs and measure as best I can then go to welding. Regards, Jay

Oh yeah. Going to mimic the equal length headers I've seen others make in the past. TWE and a few on the BYB. Not too many ways to build them equal length or close considering the space limitations. I'm sure someone will bark out that I'm copying a TWE header or something of that nature. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery I say. I'm not one to drop 400.00 into a set of headers either. Still looking for the math to find out what is optimum size pipe dia. and length. Working on the engine jig now. Jay

Take your time on the two lower bolts. You DO NOT want to strip the heads on these. Make sure your socket or wrench is on square. I suspect when you do get them loose the engine will be stuck to the tranny.(galvonic aluminum oxidation? sp) there are dowels holding them together too. Don't get in a hurry. Back away and take a breath. I have heard of people driving a drift between the tranny and engine. way ugly. Two people and a big pipe may work. Good Luck , Jay I just reread this. Man, I sound like my dad.

I'm planning on using 1 3/4" piping because I have about 20' of it left from the FMIC fab. I don't want to go too big because I still want the bottom end. I might change a bit when I find my math. Jay

I have an extra EA82T with no internals and a crossmember from another turbo car. I assembled it on the engine stand including the parts that will effect clearance on the header/uppipe when it is installed. Need to secure the turbo to the engine so when I cut the pipe away and leave only the flanges the turbo won't move and effect placement when I weld it all together. Still thinking on the fabrication. Need the formula for equal length headers vs chamber CC's vs pulsewidth vs pipe diameter vs compression ratio, blah blah..need to get in my library and find that article/chapter again. Haven't gotten too far along with this project but will update if anyone shows interest. Extra greasy! Need to completely attach the motor mounts. Coolant lines, oil lines, check power steering lines on the RX to see if they are going to be in the way. Have alot to do before I start welding. Constructive input and ideas would be much appreciated. When I was doing the FMIC some of you guys helped more than you realize with your input. Wish me Luck, Jay

Yes, use the 1/2" aluminum plate between the engine and tranny. If your interested I have a complete uncut harness, ECM, TCU, exhaust headers, MAF and all the intake piping for it too. Someone is wanting to buy it but hasn't come up with the cash yet so it's still fair game. Sorry for the highjack to hawk my stuff. Where is this 1/8th mile track? You close to Orange, Va? They do Rallycrosses there. Jay

Come buy this EJ engine and harness. That would really be something to see going down the dragstrip. Jay

no. Make an adapter plate out of aluminum. 1/2" thick. Use redrilled EA flywheel with EA clutch assembly. Everything lines up. Do a search. Good Luck. Wiring is the bear. Jay

That's classic. 105 mph, no seat belt and driving one handed to snap the picture. Were you talking on a cellphone too? Ever heard the quote: "Those people that don't think they need a helmet probably don't" Same theory seems to apply here.

I'm still curious how your going to fit a 8" wheel under the fender. Are you going to modify the body or the suspension? With the struts all I could get was 205/50 15's. Now I didn't put the coilovers on to get a bit more on the inside nor did I mess with offset of the wheels. The 205/50's have an 1/8th to the spring perch and less than 3/4" to the lip of the fender.If you do the math, that's a bit short of 9 inches of clearance. A 225 is going to work out to about 9.5 inches wide. Now if you keep dropping the sidewall height and drop away from the perch it will give you more room but you end up with this goofy, tiny tire and a whole lot of fenderwell showing. I say coilovers and a sawzall. Go for 235/45/17's. Be a man. Jay

I'll loan you my Sawzall for the fenderwells. Jay

Tire rack. Kumhos or Sumitumos are good cheap, good tires. Get H or S rated tires. V and Z rated tires wear out fast if you have an aggressive driving style on the street. The front outside shoulders will be gone with factory sways on a Subaru in no time flat. Rotate at the first sign of wear. Swap inside for out when all outside edges are evenly worn. No excuses. Save money for it. your tires will last twice as long. With the damage you've done I bet the steering wheel is off center while going straight down the road. Get an alignment now. The bigger wheels and tires will make you push harder because they will stick better. Try to find a rear swaybar from an RX or XT6 to flatten out the corners. Or get a heavier spring for the back with a heavier damped shock. J

Damn man. I didn't install the voodoo. Sorry you're having such a time. MAPP or propane is hot enough to melt aluminum so get you a bit hotter gas. I lucked out and inherited a oxy/acet rig. If it make you feel better, I cut my hand on the RV. Jay

That's what you put the prodrives on! no wonder you didn't PM me back. Jay

Did you notice all the Turbo wagon bit along the bottom of the wagon? You get that yet? How's she go? Jay

Be more specific in your title. the answer is Yes to part A and good luck finding them to part B. Try Ebay for adjustable. And no, I mosey, not strut. Jay

Part of the steering wheel center plastic trim? SWAG Jay