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Everything posted by THAWA
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really I believe that's right about the ratios, but the picture doesn't look like the type of tranny you're buying, it looks like a pull style tranny. So you'll need to get the hydraulic stuff. When you get the tranny check the clutch fork and slave cyl before you buy a junker. If it looks like this: then it's a pull style and as such you'll need the same style flywheel and clutch/pressureplate/tob. Also you'll need the hydraulic pedal setup no matter if it's push or pull with it being from a 99. What you linked to should work Also make sure you get an impreza if you get a junker, since you'll need an impreza sized driveshaft.
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no, I'm serious, animals hate pepper, even humans. we just have trained ourselves to like it. This is the most humane way to get rid of it based on the other methods posted above.
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shawn it's still a 90, but was just built in 89 and sold in 89 aswell but as a 90 hell my car was built in may of 89 and sold in oct of 89 but it's still a 90. It's a Legacy STD meaning standard. They were made in sedan or wagon, but only FWD and had no power anything except steering, made for an extremely light car.
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what year is your vehicle? What model is it? 1) You need a flywheel, you don't have one as danbob said. The problem is there's two types of flywheels/clutches/pressureplates/tobs(throw out bearings)/tranny's. One is a pull style used only on the turbo cars (legacy sport sedan, impreza wrx, impreza wrx sti, legacy gt, outback xt, forester xt, baja turbo). It is also only hydraulic, and was adapted from porsches design. The other type is a push style used on almost every other car whether subaru or not. On subaru's any non-turbo gets a push style, up until I think 97 or 98 they were all cable actuated. Afterwhich they were switched to hydraulic. 2) This will only work if you use a hydraulic setup, which push or pull, the clutch mastercylinder is still in the same spot. 3) This will only work with a pull style setup. The parts are shaped differently. 4) You need a bunch more ****: Driveshaft, transmission cross member and bolts, transmission mount, throw out bearing and clips if push style, clutch cable if you go with a cable actuated clutch, clutch master and slave cylinder if you go with hydraulic setup, also the line for that, center consle dash piece is different auto and manual, shift boot and shift knob, upper engine to trans bolts, ecu depending on year, some other minor things I cant think of. One thing I noticed in that picture of the tranny, it looks like a pull style transmission. For one the slave cylinder is behind the fork, which means it would push on the top and pivot so that the bottom was PULLING the clutch out. Also the clutch fork looks like a pull style fork. Now this means a bunch of stuff to you. you're almost undoubtbly going to need a new rear diff since the only trans's that are pull that would be removed at this point are either a legacy sport sedan or an impreza wrx. the sport sedan has a 3.900 final drive and the wrx has a 3.900 final with a 1.1:1 stepper which makes the rear final a 3.545. Thoug htat may be confusing you just nee to know that you will either need a 3.545 or 3.900 rear end. The only way to check which you need would either be to open up the tranny or decypher the transmission codes. I can't help you on that one though. At anyrate, this also means you're able to use wrx aftermarket parts now. Flywheel, clutch/pressure plate, etc.... I was going to say some more stuff but I just went blank, sorry.
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put some pepper where it eats in the car and around the whole car. It'll get it on its feet and what not then when it goes to clean itself it'll taste the pepper and be disgusted. We do that whenever cats come in our area. It's harmless and very effective.
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The belt is fine, that's just how it is. I dont think anyone has an explanation for it, but everyone that's done a t-belt job has had the same thing happen to them, either the pass side will line up and the other two dont, or the other two line up and the pass doesnt, or drivers, or something. The belt is fine. Also I didn't know there were neoprene SOHC belts. Dont hold out if you've found em!
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Subie Half Doors, Anybody run them...
THAWA replied to 4RnrRick's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
why are those good? -
How is this comparing apples to oranges? They're both transmissions. So you're saying since it has bad cooling to begin with and it fails that makes it a poor transmission, now correct me if i'm wrong but you're suggesting to swap out all the gears and **** from the 5mt tranny to an entirely different gearset. How does this not make a 5mt a poor transmission? You're basically saying that a stock 5mt is **** but if you change the gears you'll have a good tranny, and that's acceptable, but it's not acceptable to add an auxillary cooler and have a better than stock trans? Hell, if you give a 4eat a level 10 build there will be NO question of the strength of it, but I didn't suggest that did I? I was trying to stay within the constraints of a stock trans.
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ABS Problem
THAWA replied to nhoh0it's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
is he braking hard enough to lock the wheels? -
svx?
THAWA replied to 96pimpLEGACYwagon's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
I wasnt asking why buy an svx (I'm in love with the cars), I was asking why a 97. -
That's a very easy question to answer. Cooling. ATF is very sensitive to heat. If you overheat the fluid (which isn't hard), you'll cause damage to the internals of the trans. But that doesnt mean the actual transmission is weak. If you disagree think about other systems. Brakes for one, overheat the brake fluid and you'll end up with ****ty brakes, Coolant, overheat and you can crack a head. If for example you had a radiator the size of the 1.5l honda in the cooling system, how long do think one of our engines would last? Now tell me, if you just completely removed the radiator all together, how long do you think it'd last?
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svx?
THAWA replied to 96pimpLEGACYwagon's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
why? -
well I'm not sure how much a hallowed cat would affect your o2 sensor, I've never torn into the y-pipe to see how it's setup, which cat did you hallow, the first or the second? It could quite possibly be the plugs or wires, what brand of both did you use? plugs are hella cheap anyway and easy as hell to replace. Personally I'd try those before hand.
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Hmm, looks like they did switch on legacy's and impreza's in 95 At anyrate, if you're lining up the marks on the timing belt/or counting the teeth as close as you can with the sprockets and block/timing cover then the timing is right, so you dont need to worry abou that. Is it throwing a CEL? Have you tried changing what you are planning on changing on this one yet?
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Here it comes mikey I disagree. First of all the 6mt isn't new, it's been around for years. Also the trans between the ea and ej aren't the same so there's a new trans in less than 20 years. Secondly an Automatic trans is stronger than an manual trans of equal build quality. That said any of the 4eats setup for turbo cars or the svx would easily handle more power than all the 5mts, as far as the new 5eat better than the 6mt, I'd say it's quite possible, but then again I don't know the internals of a 5eat.