Vanislru

That looks awesome, thanks for all the posts with pics. Hhhhmmmmmmmm Eye candy

Your alt, VW ,puts out three phase AC which is rectified into DC, if you added a ground and felt like there was more power then like Arch. said you had alt issues, ie less than perfect rectifier or alt. Interference on drive by wires is mostly a myth. Wires are shielded and 14vdc is not going to produce much problems if any. I sometimes work on substations and 28,800 vac isn't causing problems on the vehichles we use and some are drive by wire. As for your stereo add a capacitor or a second battery hooked up PARALEL, or however the heck it's spelt. Bonding [what adding ground connections is actually called] is good, but for a stereo system over 500 watts rms you will want more power. If your volts into your amp is on the low side you may get clipping, sometime it's barely audible. There is a good thread on adding a GM alt to your sube, sounds really straight forward. Good luck.

That's good news. Thanks Any pics ?

How far back?

So roughly how different is the position of the turbo. My IC is fed right off the turbo, maybe 2.5" from the exit on the turbo into the IC straight in, just a coupler. I have another hood but installing the scoop again will be a drag. So i can probly work with a change in hieght but front to back? How's that stainless look now after a few hot runs?

Nice vids. Your wagon sounds awesome !!

I ran these on my last twagon and they did mess with the camber and roughly doubled the wear on my axles, 3 front axles in 7 months 15,000km. Struts went first though in 5 months. Compression dampner in the struts packed it in both sides. No problem with the rear axles that I knew of. I ran 3" rubber coil spacers up front 2" in the back with the preload maxed on the shocks. And big 13" tires. I'm now installing the BYB 3" lift with 4" strut extensions like some of the aussie's are doing. 1" extrs stress on the struts shouldn't be too bad i hope, nothing like 3" lol.. Planning on using 8 spoke toyota rims with 29.5's. Tires are big $$$$ here , enviro taxe, tire tax, gst, pst. Socialism rules, when i get sick someday i might be thankfull. If you've got access cheap struts and axles + don't mind the camber being a bit out \ / and wrenching every couple of months they work great. You may get more lifespan, I drive the roads [dirt, very rough after a thaw] to the ski hill loaded with crap for my cabin, gear and or people. And I drive hard.

Those are the sweetest rims to go on a Sube ever! Nice pics

I ran with atmospheric venting with an audi recirc valve and it would leak and hiss, the car ran like crap. Immediatley after plumbing it in front of the turbo all mid cuise and backing off the throttle type problems disapeared. My vac signal comes off the intake on that little nipple behind the throttle body.

I tried to pick up an xt, and failed. I don't know about the lsd but it would have a 3.70 gear ratio if that helps?What does the sticker on the back of the diff say? I've been looking for a spider intake around the local yards up here but have had no success so far. If I had money and found an xt in the yards i'd be on it like white on rice.

The guy i bought my wagon from paid $1200 cdn so about 950 us for a used 3spd 4wd auto with a stated 1 month warranty from a service shop in Victoria BC. I run a 5spd dr 4wd now and that trannie is sitting on a shelf now lol. The paint marker writing on it says 110 000 kms.

$750 [cdn] and i have to look into a bracket either before install or take things off and have one made after a while, not really an option for me cause i drive dirt roads all the time? So this setup is for their grass roots racer car? why no bracket? I have to move or heat shield the ps lines? WTF this is beginning to sound like a lot of hassle to install a pricy bit of stainless. I'm still stoked on the pipes but these issues shouldn't exist on an expensive 'bolt on' that's the justification for the big dollars these cost compared to the ime and welding involved doin' it yourself[Or having your sister do it]. My sisters a welder by trade and it's going to suck justifying the money I spent.lol I mean no harm it's just that i bought two of these and that's 1500$cdn and now the prospect of BS has me all choked up. I don't like bolt on's that have to be modded. Time to call Jack.

OK. Got the coolant in and did the plugs + another oil change to help the quiet the one tick that was in the foreground. The sound in the background kinda of a cylinder thudding only quietly we found in #3 cylinder by removing plug wires one at a time from the disty while the motor is running. My friend Paul seems to think that it's maybe a ring related issue that might resolve itself, or maybe with some serious detergent. He says that drivin is ok. Power was reasonable and the noise doies get quieter under load. Like driving onto a large block. So we took it for a spin and it seems allright but i personally don't like to think about what if's and I am unsure about the reliability. Any thoughts?

The motor doesn't seem to burn any oil, or coolant. It does chuff a bit when you let off the throttle but i think that's related to the state of the exhaust system,rotten. no white smoke. I'm going out to try and put in coolant, and the new plugs. I'm going to stare it down first though.lol

I'll try to fill it with the car front raised tomorrow. There were no crackes in the heads and they were not warped, which was surprising I mean the oil just smelled nasty. I will change the t stat too. They're only bout $12cdn at crappy tire. As for internals what could be damaged from an overheat? Oil pump looks like it needs to be replaced the new gasket did nothing. The plugs looked fine but he has new platinum ones to go in, bosch i think, so i'll try that too. I am hooking up the boost gauge from my car onto his tomorrow cause he thinks that his turbo is not boosting either. The little green lite does not come on. I've spent more time on his car than on my own and he just bought his and i've had mine for two years My pregnant girlfriend is losing patience.lol

It's odd there's no marks but I have got the t belts on. The keyway for the two t belt sprockets matches up to where the three hash marks are on the flywheel on my car. So with this and the info from a earlier thread i did the belts. The car runs but i think it has bigger problems[see overheat post]. I feel bad for Dan we just finished doing the 5spd dr swap. Now this. In the first post i said timing marks, i think or top dead center, what i meant was the belt timing marks. Flywheel has niether. Thanks for all reply's

This is my friend Dan's car that was recently overheated with no coolant in it at all. Well after a head gasket job the car still does not sound right. A miss and stumble problem. The other issue is that it takes on no coolant and circulates none either. So what could be wrong where to look now? Any suggestions on what to do. Oh yeah the motor oil absolutely cooked on this thing and I'm thinkin maybe more. It does run though.

yeah i know what's what and where to look. The flywheel has no marks period. I just did the t belts using the keyhole on the crank as the center instead of the 3 hash marks, that aren't there, no i don't know why either. Works great. Thanks for the post anyhow.

I'm trying to do the t belts on an ea82t with no marks at all on the flywheel. I've searched and from what i've read the keyhole on the crank is in line with the tdc marks for doing the belts. Is this correct? Any help/tips would be greatly appreciated.

As far as the dash and the wiring harness goes it is mostly plug and play if you grab everything from the dash foraward on the donor car. I followed that long thread on Wjm's? car with the carb block turboed, he had put a lot of miles on with no chiller too i think. A turbo block spooled up and pushin what was it 45:1 gear ratio? A bit of work but why not.

What does the wastegate side look like,any chance of a pic? Very nice bit of stainless. Can't wait to see them after a few hot runs.

I think that's the one! Sounds like a score. PM me when it's mountain time. I was up their last thursday doin nuts in the snow. I go up to Mt. Cain on the weekends too so we should talk. Good luck with the car. I

Was this the burgundy one in the buy and sell with the noisy lifters? Nice to see yet another islander o the board.

Use the search function and look up performance mods. Alot of hp can be had for little $ and not too much effort compared to full motor swap. how much poweer do you want? another 50 is possible with a bit of work.

Rockinroller, the hit the solenoid trick helps the plunger on the solenoid either make a good contact or frees it so it can hit the contacts. You don't need to do this as that click means the solenoid and plunger are working. The contacts sit in the solenoid assembly. Starter motors are very tough, i'm doubtful that you need a new one. Pull it off pull the solenoid asssembly apart, not the motor side, And look at the contacts if they are deeply dished or broken problem found. We are talikn 30+ minutes here, really straight forward. A little insight into starter/ solenoid workings... the solenoid is a electromagnetic coil, in the center of this coil is the plunger or in trade terms the actuator. the plunger is forced down by the magnetism from the coil,on the bottom of the plunger is a contact.It strikes the two contacts at the bottom and completes the electrical path between them. Now the starter has power. It's essentially another form of a relay that does heavy load switching. Let us know how you make out.