Vanislru

Get a can of Contact cleaner, electrical wholesaler should be the cheapest, and give the alt a solid blasting around the brushes. Should remove any of the carbon and crap.

Wow, can you spot a guy some cash too?

Anyone tried to break loose a stuck brake piston? My left rear disc brake is siezed on and the wreckers around here have cleared out there 80's stock. Thoughts? I'd like to just bolt a "new" caliper on but I have to find one first.

Yes!, that was sick. More!

Nope, fuel pump puts out 80 -95 psi i believe, the fpr sends fuel back to the tank at 45 psi or something like that. What I'm saying is the fuel pump isn't the weak link, the fpr determines the pressure and is downstream of the injectors, so if you use a higher rate fpr you get more pressure to the injectors but a lack of pressure is definately not related to the fuel cut. Could you not use an 86 computer and flapper maf, from what i've seen the connectors for the computer are all the same?

The tires cost 145 each so they're a little on the steep side for me, and they wil be mounted to some chrome toy rims I have. Heavy rims but very nice. I should have them mounted this week and on the ru as soon as the lift kits come.

The wastegate is actuated by pressure from the hose that plugs into the turbo housing. The turbo is not controlled by anything on the car it is a stand alone unit. The actuator is mechanical just a diaphram nothing else. So the second pressure switch you are talking about is the safegard for overboost conditions, it sends the signal to the ecu under high boost cond. This is the one you disconnect to end fuel cut probs, if you have an 86 or older. As Bushbasher already said the problem on 87 & up cars is the ecu recieves overboost info from the pressure switch by the strut and the hotwire maf, the hotwire maf senses the amount of air and if it passes a certain amount the the ecu sees that as overboost. This is why fuel cut defenders exist. As far as what the service manual says well... if it were that simple there wouldn't be hundreds of posts regarding this issue on 87 and younger turbo subes. I think if you look at the 85-92 manuals they all say that, mine does. There is nothing that has been overlooked, guys have overcome the hotwire maf issue but it's still a hassle, that's why I have all 86 turbo's they have all the new gen goodies but the flapper maf. OK I'm done. In the time it took me to write this there was 4 posts!!!!!!!!! NICE

An easier solution is to unplug the connector. This works good for pre 87 cars, I boost at 14 psi, and higher on climbs 16-18, no prob.. On the hotwire cars this isn't effective for stopping fuel cut and I can't remember why [ i have all 86's].

Yep I love all the lateral blocks, I've talked to a few of the more serious offroaders around here and they SWEAR they are the best non siped tire for the snow and ice. Really important for me with all the road trips mid winter. Oh yeah and really quiet too. So I'm in the store [kal tire] and in comes this fuy I knew way back and he's got this crazy F-350 superduty powerstroke 1 ton non dually truck. 12" lift 44 inch tires, 6 spd trannie, powerchip, 4" exhaust from the turbo back, TONS of go fast goodies. Holy F--- we're talkin 100,000 $'s worth of truck. Can u say coke dealer, HHHHHhhhmmm he has no soul but nice truck all the same. Sorry no pics.

Update Super swamper ssr's are a no go. 6-8 weeks is too long to wait so I'm going with 29x10.5 r15 Trxus sts's. The deciding factor was streat-ability long tread life, excellent snow/sand performance no need to sipe which would have cost 120 $cdn [20x6tires] and availabilty. Nice looking tire too. I will probly use 1" spacers for extra offset too. I will post pictures ASAP.

I live in the Comox Valley now but like most industrial sparkies I've had many homes. 1-2 hours north of Fort Mcmurray AB. My old miserable place of employment, I had my 1st turbo ru tached out in -43 once and loved it, the car ran lean but ooohhh that extra dense air makes for good power. We had -19 once in the CV which was pretty cool, laughed my rump roast of when some hick ditched his truck in the lake after discovering a "soft spot".

So far the Kal tire boys think the next size up is 29x11.5 r15 too wide for me, I will talk with them this morn. after they call interco. Thank you all for your posts they are very much appreciated, this is a big step I normally run cheaper and sometimes used tires.

Yep, I had bad probs at -30 / -40 celsius really cold! Power steering was affected too, try a thinner synthetic oil and maybe an additive such as lucas oil.

It's got a lot to do with the tariffs put in place in order to protect the domestic market, something like 30 percent. Yeah free trade.

The rear left side has siezed slightly on, causing great amounts of heat and has pretty much thinned the livin crap out of my axle grease in the hub. I'm having probs getting another caliper from a wrecker so I'd like to know if anyone has worked on unsiezing the piston, is it possible or worth even trying?

Well I've already got the 4" body lift and I'd like to still have lots of get up and go. How much taller are you thinking 28.5 ? I think the backspacing is 3.75" they are 98-02 toy rims, i think. I'll know for sure when i go out to the shop tonite.

It's time for new tires and I'm thinking about going wider, 27x10.5 r15 Super swamper ssr's. These are going on a 86 Ea82t wagon with a 4" lift. I want to hear about the trimming and bashin that I might be getting myself into. Lmk what's involved with stepping up to 10.5' . Thanks. Forgot to mention that these are going on newer style steel toy rims.

Mostly true, you can crack a head by having to much adv. timing/pinging , running lean, or a really bad overheat will do it too but almost all cracked heads on our cars our found on the turbo cars. Cracks don't neccesarily condemn a head to the scrap heap either.

Yes I finally got my pipes, the nieghbours are gonna be so pissed! Apparently I still haven't figured out this whole posting pictures thang. Will try later.

Funny, I posted a while back that I had no issues with slippage but after stepping up to 14 psi and a more direct intake routing... bam slippage. Might have something to do to with towing out that Chevy the other day, stuheenky lol. So, uh yeah, I'm interested in a stronger clutch too.

Nice, got any footage of the BFH action? Scoop shot, did I miss it?

Is that what a plug and play unit goes for?

My one turbo ru, not the one in the sig, has a small strong spring. The wastegate actuator still deals with spikes well and I boost about 12-14psi. The spring connects to the actuator arm and the oil feed line, this method is referred to as "shadetree" but works great. I think it actually works as good as my manual boost controller on the wagon in the sig, I'd like to have a remotely adjustable one so I can turn it down going up really long mountain passes fully loaded but that's some $$$. The features you mentioned ie knock sensor and timing etc would be the schiznit but I feel that I can do without, I keep spare motors ready to dropped in not that i've needed to yet.

Sweet! do you still want my uppipe?

NICE, never thought of clocking the intake piece, I like the dimensions of the Audi coolers they're thick and the angle of the fins is bang on for a tmic, wonder how many others have this type of set up. Yeah it's JB weld and a 2" PVC fitting with the output from the turbo side chopped at 45 and JB'd too. After eyeing it up I couldn't believe how centered it was, a friend of mine said to me it looks so clean that he could've thought it was factory. I'm proud of the second strut bar mount for the chiller, a little stronger than stock and it's one less part filling up the shop.