Vanislru

If you want to kill any spores that may have been missed while cleaning you might want to try burning sulfur. light a deck of matches up then close the door with the smoke trapped inside repeat a few times. This works very well and is cheap cheap cheap. Heat and a lack of humidity will do a lot but this will kill whatever might be left. and it removes any musty smells.

Yeah 30's are too big I'm leaning towards 27.5x9.5x15 or whatever the metric converts to something close to that anyways. Still trying to convince the wreckers to give me a decent price, these are the same guys that crushed all the 80's cars and trucks. If I only knew they were gonna do this there were so many wicked parts cars in there.

Laughibly ignorant?? Ouch. He just posted links, if they're that bad state how. Your link was a good read. Premium gas will not neccesarily have x amount of octane, it might have x amount + additives that give it the stated #. How do you suggest gas stations run out of reg, reg+, and premium at the same time? Premium gas= performance, sort of if you have the engine that requires it but not for your average engine, and most likely not for modern ones.

Nice links guy.

Premium 92 = 92 parts octane 8 parts heptane regular 87 = 87 octane 13 parts heptane. Heptane has a lower ignition temperature, octane has a considerably higher. regular has more power but ignites at a lower temp, this is why high comp, turbo and supercharged motors need premium. All that compression makes for more heat and a higher likelyhood of autoignition so a higher octane is needed. Some gas suppliers pull from the same tank and use an additive to bring the octane rating up. It is just a rating. It doesn't mean that there is physically 87 parts octane and 13 heptane, it means they have produced something with the same characteristics/rating. That "peformance" comes from the additives and the performance they are speaking about is cleaner combustion chambers and valves, etc. 'They' would like you to think more power but that's not the case. Notice they always say performance not power. Regular has more power. If you can run reg. it's better. Those additives are bad news, and for those in the midwest try to use Shell it comes from better [more modern less cat clogging sulfur and other nasties] refineries than others. Unless you know a chain that brings there supply from the coast. This comes from talking to the techies in the refineries I worked in, Shell, Exxon/Esso, Syncrude, Suncor, Petrocan, etc. just my 2 cents

Thanks bushbasher, what are you runnin right now? That's the range I was thinking, might try to get a set for cheap from the wreckers first before i throw down on new treads. I might go bigger, but i doubt it. 30's do look good. Hows your wagon, any new pics?

I've searched the threads but haven't had a lot of luck. So far it's come down to the cooper stt's. My question is what size either metric/inches are you running? Most of my driving is either up the moutains to ride or ski, or driving to the mountains. Some rock crawling and deep water bar crossings. Not much for mud around here. I'd like to sipe 2 for the front in the winter then move em to the back in summer. 30x8.5x15 maybe smaller I don't know. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

On good stainless steel ?

I've tried 94 and it was a bit better. I use platinum plugs with a .045 gap Tried different fuels, no luck. I think I remember a thread about the knock sensor mod. but I'd like to try and find what's wrong. It didn't always do this. What's a PO? EGR cuts out at positive pressure so I'm thinking the problem lies elsewhere. I recently cleaned and lubed my disty and that fixed the surging at cruise but not the pinging that starts as soon as I mat it and then stops .5 sec later. :-\

Checked. EGR system is screwed. Looks like the plastic where the vac hose goes into EGR solenoid is cracked/broken. I'm going to replace it ASAP junks permitting. I run 92 octane. If the new solenoid stops the pinging maybe I can go back to 25 btdc. Cheers.

It won't stop At 20 btdc it's ok, 23 and up the pinging comes on when I accelarate hard in 2nd 3rd or 4th but only for the first half second then it's gone. Nothing. not even at wot 15 psi 6.5 krpm. I was hoping a quick tune would remedy but no luck. Any suggestions? Intake temps are cool, motors in good shape. Recently looked at heads/pistons and they are still clean. Plugs are good. Coil? it's an accell, my third one, who knows if it's ok. I have an Autometer guage and it doesn't look like theres any boost spikes. It sucks having to lower the advance just so it doesn't ping for a half second at the beginning of each hard shift. I've searched and a few people have talked about this and it would seem it's the pre 87's that have this issue. Any Ideas? :-\

Those stickers got style, very clean. I want.

Good to here, Jack had told me 4-6 weeks back in Sept. be nice to find out they are shipped and somewhere between here and there. Thanks for the update. Are you going to use header wrap? I thought I'd do in front of the oil pan but why stop there. Higher temps = less pressure loss. 86$cdn it cost me for two rolls, ouch.

Myxalpylx, what did Tech Works Engineering have to say about the staus of the nest batch? I believe my pipes are part of the same production run and I have not heard from Jack. So there might not be any PS issues?

How is your clutch functioning, if it needs adjustment[the cable] then you might get some improvement. What about additives, i've used molybdenum and it's not bad. There are similar compounds available that help. Lucas oil makes a good one there are a few Manual tranny "cures" that come in a bottle. I'd try these things first.

Hows your trans fluid? Maybe the torque converter isn't doin it's thang. My 86 3spd auto 4wd does about 4000 rpm @ 71 mph +/- 300 rpm, which sucks.

The air struts from a hatch are a bit longer and stronger? Maybe they might offset the weight of speakers. just a thought.

Hey Darryl, Flin Flon eh? Isn't that were the gov grows their Med. pot in a mine? I don't know about Manitobans' but there are roughly a dozen BC people on the board. Mostly Old Gen. I used to take my 4wd wagon out on the sand dunes north of Fort McMurray in the winter, the only time they were firm enough for me to get anywhere. Getting stuck in -40c can be lethal if you are unprepared but after a couple of months of living in work camps I had to get away. Got any more pics?

There is a thread about unsiezing a motor by drilling out the bottom of a spark plug, removeing the porcelain and welding a nipple on it so you can pump grease into the cylinder and force it free. Couldn't you weld a male compressor fitting to a plug?

I ran with my IC at -42 celsius which is damn cold. Ran perfect no issues at all. Felt like i maybe was a second faster from stop lights to 80 kmh/50mph, ice in my tank was an issue once. I think iceing of your throttle body is pretty much impossible cause there is no gas evaporating at that point, unless you have a turbo carb setup.

I purchased 2 struts today, there were two choices i was offered. $58 CDN each or $105CDN each. both for 86 4wd twagon. I went with the $$$ ones cause they came with a lifetime waranty even for DIY'ers. That's about 45 usd or 87 usd, i think. 2 for 85 americanos sounds pretty good, are they the HD ones? WJM what is the difference between the RX ones and the reg.?

Awesome, I've got subie friends around BC and AB that would be very keen on this too. A help network might be a thread all on it's own? That's got serious potential. I've helped wrench on strangers cars in ferrie line ups, parking lots, and on the mountain too. Not before getting turns in though. No friends on a powder day. Any chance to feel useful I'll take.lol

So far west, that's Vancouver Island too? There is a lot of BC members on this board and I can't speak for them but I think meets local are a great idea. I've never been as far north as AK but I've often dreamed of road trippin and backcountry skiing there. I'm thinking of starting a thread to see if any BC guys and gals are interested in a local club and or meets. ATB

Thanks

I wish I knew how to post links to other threads. Doesn't that thread include part #'s that pretty much bolt right up for the bracket, with minor tweaking?